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Re-assembling 2-piece rotor question.

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Old 03-08-2011, 02:20 PM
  #21  
Kuhan
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Not sure if I want to get the hats anodized since the fronts are aluminum and the rears are steel.

As far as the hardware, I am getting new steel washers and allen socket bolts. But I will use the pins since I don't even know where to get them. Unless someone can help me out.

My plan is to clean the surface between the rotors and hats and around the bolts. Also I will torque all the bolts to 10 ft-lbs and use wicking Loctite (type 290).
And after a 100 miles, I will re-torque all the bolts again.


If everything fails, I have no choice to buy new rotors and hats.

Thanks for all the help so far.
Old 03-08-2011, 02:49 PM
  #22  
lgear080
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Trust me. Strip and anodize the Fronts.

Take the rear hat to a machine shop and get a quote
For aluminum replacements.

Do this right the first time and you'll never worry.

Every other path will not yield optimal results.
Every other path also costs more in the long run.

This coming from one of the few with legit experience
In a high end debacle.
Old 03-08-2011, 03:04 PM
  #23  
Kuhan
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Originally Posted by lgear080
Take the rear hat to a machine shop and get a quote
For aluminum replacements.

This is possible?
Old 03-08-2011, 03:11 PM
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Chris_B
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Originally Posted by Kuhan
Not sure if I want to get the hats anodized since the fronts are aluminum and the rears are steel.

As far as the hardware, I am getting new steel washers and allen socket bolts. But I will use the pins since I don't even know where to get them. Unless someone can help me out.

My plan is to clean the surface between the rotors and hats and around the bolts. Also I will torque all the bolts to 10 ft-lbs and use wicking Loctite (type 290).
And after a 100 miles, I will re-torque all the bolts again.


If everything fails, I have no choice to buy new rotors and hats.

Thanks for all the help so far.
If you use Loctite 290, you will not be re-torquing them -- nor would you want to. Get it right the first time and then leave them alone. If you over-torque them, they will break the first time they see real heat. Aluminum will expand more than steel with temperature, which will overstretch the bolts. This can be a big problem, especially with the fully threaded screws in that picture you posted.

And, it is best to use reasonably high strength steel bolts on brake hats, not the lower strength and hardness stainless fasteners.

Chris

Last edited by Chris_B; 03-08-2011 at 03:40 PM.
Old 03-08-2011, 03:35 PM
  #25  
lgear080
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Khu - thats Why god made mAchine shops. Just make sure the
Aluminum grade is identical. You're looking at $500-$1000 ballpark
...

But it'll be done right. If you were down here we'd help.
Old 03-08-2011, 03:48 PM
  #26  
Kuhan
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Originally Posted by Chris_B
If you use Loctite 290, you will not be re-torquing them -- nor would you want to. Get it right the first time and then leave them alone. If you over-torque them, they will break the first time they see real heat. Aluminum will expand more than steel with temperature, which will overstretch the bolts. This can be a big problem, especially with the fully threaded screws in that picture you posted.

And, it is best to use reasonably high strength steel bolts on brake hats, not the lower strength and hardness stainless fasteners.

Chris
Thanks for the tip. Then I won't use loctite. I bought class 12.9 alloy steel zinc-plated bolts and washers. Those should do job, correct?

I'll play safe and torque them to 8 ft-lbs. And then at 100 miles or so, I'll check the bolts again.

Originally Posted by lgear080
Khu - thats Why god made mAchine shops. Just make sure the
Aluminum grade is identical. You're looking at $500-$1000 ballpark
...

But it'll be done right. If you were down here we'd help.
Sorry man. I'm just a noob. I never thought about that.
But for that price, I might as well get new hats.

I already requested a quote for new rotors and hats to Z1 Performance.



I also bought this Craftsman torque wrench today at local Sears store.
Torque range: 25-250 in-lbs.
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive


Last edited by Kuhan; 03-08-2011 at 03:58 PM.
Old 03-08-2011, 04:29 PM
  #27  
Chris_B
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Originally Posted by Kuhan
Thanks for the tip. Then I won't use loctite. I bought class 12.9 alloy steel zinc-plated bolts and washers. Those should do job, correct?
I prefer 8.8 due to their higher toughness (less brittle), but 12.9 should work fine unless you are building an F1 car!

Chris
Old 03-08-2011, 04:40 PM
  #28  
Kuhan
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Originally Posted by Chris_B
I prefer 8.8 due to their higher toughness (less brittle), but 12.9 should work fine unless you are building an F1 car!

Chris
I thought class 12.9 steel has higher strength? That's why I bought class 12.9 instead of class 8.8 or 10.9.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx

Last edited by Kuhan; 03-08-2011 at 05:01 PM.
Old 03-08-2011, 05:15 PM
  #29  
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Recommended Torque (N*m)
Diameter(mm) Class 8.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5 --------------7 ---------- 9 -------------11?
6 --------------12----------16
8---------------30 -------- 40
10 -------------55 ---------75
12 -------------100---------135
14 -------------160---------215
16 -------------245---------335
20 -------------480---------650

9-11 N-M => 80 - 100 in-lbs => 6 - 8 ft-lbs.

So torquing these class 12.9 zinc-plated alloy steel bolts to 8 ft-lbs should work.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx

Last edited by Kuhan; 03-08-2011 at 05:19 PM.
Old 03-08-2011, 05:18 PM
  #30  
Chris_B
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Originally Posted by Kuhan
I thought class 12.9 steel has higher strength? That's why I bought class 12.9 instead of class 8.8 or 10.9.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx
Strength and toughness are inversely proportional (generally). Stronger bolts are more brittle -- they yield at a higher percentage of their ultimate tensile strength. In other words, they will take a higher load, but will fail catastrophically as opposed to slightly yielding. Many times stronger is better, but not always.

Chris
Old 03-08-2011, 05:22 PM
  #31  
Chris_B
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Originally Posted by Kuhan
Recommended Torque (N*m)
Diameter(mm) Class 8.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5 7 9 11?
6 12 16
8 30 40
10 55 75
12 100 135
14 160 215
16 245 335
20 480 650

9-11 N-M => 80 - 100 in-lbs => 6 - 8 ft-lbs.

So torquing these class 12.9 zinc-plated alloy steel bolts to 8 ft-lbs should work.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx
Do NOT use maximum recommended torque values that the bolt manufacturers provide! Only use what is recommended by the particular brake manufacturer. Sometimes they may be the same, but most often rotor hat hardware needs to be torqued at a slightly lower value to allow for thermal growth. Generic bolt specifications do not take expansion into account. I've seen this error made many times and, if lucky, it only resulted in a few ruined parts. The more unlucky ones got to choose their next track car.

Chris
Old 03-08-2011, 05:27 PM
  #32  
Kuhan
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Thanks a lot, Chris B!

Since I'm not getting any help from Endless Usa regarding recommended torque.
Is it safe for me to use Stoptech recommended torque of their 2 piece rotors of 6 ft-lbs?
Old 03-08-2011, 05:34 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Kuhan
Thanks a lot, Chris B!

Since I'm not getting any help from Endless Usa regarding recommended torque.
Is it safe for me to use Stoptech recommended torque of their 2 piece rotors of 6 ft-lbs?
You should really get the info from them, but I use the recommended 62 lb-in (5.2 lb-ft) for 5mm fasteners on AP Racing and Brembo discs.

Chris
Old 03-08-2011, 05:47 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Kuhan
This is possible?
yes. many shops even sell their own rear 2 piece in aluminium hats. check out arizonazcar.com for example. their website sucks but dave knows his ****.
Old 03-09-2011, 05:29 AM
  #35  
lgear080
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try to get a price from a machinist or dave @ arizona.... does endless sell an alum
rear hat.

take your time... mine took only 14 mos or so
Old 03-10-2011, 12:14 PM
  #36  
Kuhan
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I finally got a reply from Endless Usa.

The torque specs for the rotor bobbins is:
-M5 Bolts: 1.3KGF-M
-M6 Bolts: 1.5KGF-M
-M8 Bolts: 3.2KGF-M
Conversion:
1.3KGF-M = 12.75 N-m = 113 in-lbs = 9.4 ft-lbs

When installing, the floating bolts and pins should be slightly loose as this is their purpose. The float range should be 0.3mm to 0.5mm.
So if I torque each bolt to 113 in-lbs, then what does this mean?
Old 03-10-2011, 02:39 PM
  #37  
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Kuhan, I got your PM and I will send you a reply shortly.
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