Springs struts and shock
I'm in need of some replacement springs for my 08 350z. I figure I go ahead and replace the struts springs and shocks on the car. I don't plan on doing any track riding or lower the car either. I just need something with better comfort without losing what performance and handling I have now. I would like to keep my bugget at $500 if possible. But i'm willing to spend a little more if really needed.
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Take a look here:
https://conceptzperformance.com/tein...z33_p_1538.php
https://conceptzperformance.com/kyb-...55_p_11970.php
Mind you, this is not an endorsement for KYB shocks. I won't use them because I had a bad experience with them - however long ago that was, maybe some 35+ years ago. But, these are alleged to be OEM replacement units for many cars. The Tein springs are the tamest of the easily available aftermarket spring sets. They have a minimal drop but have decent spring rates, a bit stiffer than OE.
So why do you think you need springs? How many miles on the car? Springs do fatigue BUT rarely do they "need" replacement. What can be confused with "bad springs" is usually the shocks which control the spring deflection.
https://conceptzperformance.com/tein...z33_p_1538.php
https://conceptzperformance.com/kyb-...55_p_11970.php
Mind you, this is not an endorsement for KYB shocks. I won't use them because I had a bad experience with them - however long ago that was, maybe some 35+ years ago. But, these are alleged to be OEM replacement units for many cars. The Tein springs are the tamest of the easily available aftermarket spring sets. They have a minimal drop but have decent spring rates, a bit stiffer than OE.
So why do you think you need springs? How many miles on the car? Springs do fatigue BUT rarely do they "need" replacement. What can be confused with "bad springs" is usually the shocks which control the spring deflection.
I recommend you search this sub-forum where you will gain a lot of insight. You will find information helping you make the best decision for your preferences.
I agree with iideadeyeii. If you want to maintain the stock height and handling characteristics, you can purchase OEM springs and shocks.
I found that I could buy better than OEM for about the same $$. I lowered the car, but just slightly (less than one inch). The car handles better with the aftermarket components and riding a little lower.
I agree with iideadeyeii. If you want to maintain the stock height and handling characteristics, you can purchase OEM springs and shocks.
I found that I could buy better than OEM for about the same $$. I lowered the car, but just slightly (less than one inch). The car handles better with the aftermarket components and riding a little lower.
Last edited by Spike100; Dec 17, 2019 at 01:44 PM.
Take a look here:
https://conceptzperformance.com/tein...z33_p_1538.php
https://conceptzperformance.com/kyb-...55_p_11970.php
Mind you, this is not an endorsement for KYB shocks. I won't use them because I had a bad experience with them - however long ago that was, maybe some 35+ years ago. But, these are alleged to be OEM replacement units for many cars. The Tein springs are the tamest of the easily available aftermarket spring sets. They have a minimal drop but have decent spring rates, a bit stiffer than OE.
So why do you think you need springs? How many miles on the car? Springs do fatigue BUT rarely do they "need" replacement. What can be confused with "bad springs" is usually the shocks which control the spring deflection.
https://conceptzperformance.com/tein...z33_p_1538.php
https://conceptzperformance.com/kyb-...55_p_11970.php
Mind you, this is not an endorsement for KYB shocks. I won't use them because I had a bad experience with them - however long ago that was, maybe some 35+ years ago. But, these are alleged to be OEM replacement units for many cars. The Tein springs are the tamest of the easily available aftermarket spring sets. They have a minimal drop but have decent spring rates, a bit stiffer than OE.
So why do you think you need springs? How many miles on the car? Springs do fatigue BUT rarely do they "need" replacement. What can be confused with "bad springs" is usually the shocks which control the spring deflection.
I recommend you search this sub-forum where you will gain a lot of insight. You will find information helping you make the best decision for your preferences.
I agree with iideadeyeii. If you want to maintain the stock height and handling characteristics, you can purchase OEM springs and shocks.
I found that I could buy better than OEM for about the same $$. I lowered the car, but just slightly (less than one inch). The car handles better with the aftermarket components and riding a little lower.
I agree with iideadeyeii. If you want to maintain the stock height and handling characteristics, you can purchase OEM springs and shocks.
I found that I could buy better than OEM for about the same $$. I lowered the car, but just slightly (less than one inch). The car handles better with the aftermarket components and riding a little lower.
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Northern California
Have you checked (or had) the front end gone through to eliminate the typical culprits of camber problems, e.g., worn ball joints, bad bushings, etc? I’m not buying the spring being the problem. That’s a pretty big reach, especially at that low mileage.
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I agree about the fact on the springs I'm just going by with what they said. They said they checked out the ball joints and bushings. I'm going to see what it would cost to take it in the dealership. All I know is. Ever since they replaced the front passenger tire with a new one. I started have issues with my limit. I just replace the lower reward ball joint on the driver side due to the rubber on the outside torn 5 months ago. Now I had to replace the driver side front tire due to cracks and now this.
I agree about the fact on the springs I'm just going by with what they said. They said they checked out the ball joints and bushings. I'm going to see what it would cost to take it in the dealership. All I know is. Ever since they replaced the front passenger tire with a new one. I started have issues with my limit. I just replace the lower reward ball joint on the driver side due to the rubber on the outside torn 5 months ago. Now I had to replace the driver side front tire due to cracks and now this.
There are MUCH better shocks out there depending on your budget. My advice - get a 2nd opinion on your alignment problem and research new shocks. You'll be amazed at the difference new shocks make!
Mic is correct regarding spring life- they are designed to last the life of the chasis, 2-300K miles. I do not have the specs for unsprung and installed length. On the other hand this is the 1st report I've heard ever of spring-sag causing improper alignment.
There are MUCH better shocks out there depending on your budget. My advice - get a 2nd opinion on your alignment problem and research new shocks. You'll be amazed at the difference new shocks make!
There are MUCH better shocks out there depending on your budget. My advice - get a 2nd opinion on your alignment problem and research new shocks. You'll be amazed at the difference new shocks make!
Of course. IIRC the term "Strut" came out many years ago when technology changed and shocks were able to be housed as 1 unit (as opposed to completely separate units). You can easily seach for "shocks for 350Z" rather than "strut".
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
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Joined: Oct 2014
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Shocks for Z33 range from the OE replacement unit I referenced earlier, KYB Excel G which run about $300/set.
Next up, at the mid-level, not much here. Tein offers something called the Endura, which I know little about, about $450. Tokico used to offer their "Blues" (or the slightly higher priced D-Specs) which were great in the midrange but alas, NLA.
Next stop up are the bellwethers of the performance level non-coilover shocks: Koni and Bilstein. These are both out of your stated price range, about $700-900/set either one.
Koni offers the Sport version called "Yellows" which are adjustable for firmness. They're somewhat stiff even at the softest settings but Konis offer legendary performance. Best shock, IMO, for a street Z however, are Bilstein B6 (about $700) or B8 if lowered (about $900). Firm but not jarring, liveable ride (especially with stock springs) and great performance overall.
So, despite my lack of faith in KYBs, willing to say that 40 years of improvements and a nice twin tube, low pressure gas design, the Excel Gs are probably what you want. Have not heard many people here with these but I'm sure they're out there.
Next up, at the mid-level, not much here. Tein offers something called the Endura, which I know little about, about $450. Tokico used to offer their "Blues" (or the slightly higher priced D-Specs) which were great in the midrange but alas, NLA.
Next stop up are the bellwethers of the performance level non-coilover shocks: Koni and Bilstein. These are both out of your stated price range, about $700-900/set either one.
Koni offers the Sport version called "Yellows" which are adjustable for firmness. They're somewhat stiff even at the softest settings but Konis offer legendary performance. Best shock, IMO, for a street Z however, are Bilstein B6 (about $700) or B8 if lowered (about $900). Firm but not jarring, liveable ride (especially with stock springs) and great performance overall.
So, despite my lack of faith in KYBs, willing to say that 40 years of improvements and a nice twin tube, low pressure gas design, the Excel Gs are probably what you want. Have not heard many people here with these but I'm sure they're out there.
Last edited by MicVelo; Dec 18, 2019 at 06:05 PM.
Shocks for Z33 range from the OE replacement unit I referenced earlier, KYB Excel G which run about $300/set.
Next up, at the mid-level, not much here. Tein offers something called the Endura, which I know little about, about $450. Tokico used to offer their "Blues" (or the slightly higher priced D-Specs) which were great in the midrange but alas, NLA.
Next stop up are the bellwethers of the performance level non-coilover shocks: Koni and Bilstein. These are both out of your stated price range, about $700-900/set either one.
Koni offers the Sport version called "Yellows" which are adjustable for firmness. They're somewhat stiff even at the softest settings but Konis offer legendary performance. Best shock, IMO, for a street Z however, are Bilstein B6 (about $700) or B8 if lowered (about $900). Firm but not jarring, liveable ride (especially with stock springs) and great performance overall.
So, despite my lack of faith in KYBs, willing to say that 40 years of improvements and a nice twin tube, low pressure gas design, the Excel Gs are probably what you want. Have not heard many people here with these but I'm sure they're out there.
Next up, at the mid-level, not much here. Tein offers something called the Endura, which I know little about, about $450. Tokico used to offer their "Blues" (or the slightly higher priced D-Specs) which were great in the midrange but alas, NLA.
Next stop up are the bellwethers of the performance level non-coilover shocks: Koni and Bilstein. These are both out of your stated price range, about $700-900/set either one.
Koni offers the Sport version called "Yellows" which are adjustable for firmness. They're somewhat stiff even at the softest settings but Konis offer legendary performance. Best shock, IMO, for a street Z however, are Bilstein B6 (about $700) or B8 if lowered (about $900). Firm but not jarring, liveable ride (especially with stock springs) and great performance overall.
So, despite my lack of faith in KYBs, willing to say that 40 years of improvements and a nice twin tube, low pressure gas design, the Excel Gs are probably what you want. Have not heard many people here with these but I'm sure they're out there.
I'm thinking of leaning towards the Bilstein B6. If I get these they should work fine with my stock springs ?
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I’ve been a Bilstein fan for as long as I’ve been dismayed with KYBs. Laff.... 🤣
Last edited by MicVelo; Dec 19, 2019 at 06:35 AM.
Well got a call it seems the lower right side steering knuckle ball joint boot is crack. Which is the cause of the problem. Do I have to replace the whole thing or can I get the ball joint replace.
Here's where it gets fun! Yes, you can replace the ball joint assembly only. If it were me I'd see if my alignment shop can do it. Sometimes when 2 shops work on a car things can go wrong. You don't want 2 shops blaming each other if the alignment cant get into spec.
Just replace both ball joints (2-3hr job) and install a set of KYB shocks.
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