I’m wondering what else to buy for my 05 g35 coupe, drifted almost every event for my first season last year, slowly adding upgrades along the way. Most the year I drifted stock suspension, seats, belts, etc. just angle, welded dif, and a few bushings. Here is a comprehensive list of mods done to my car/going to be added before next season for sure.

-BC Coils
-welded dif 3.5 FD
-6 puck clutch, midweight flywheel
-tomei + motordyne exhaust
-Z1 rear subframe bushing collars
-poly dif bushings
-poly trans mount
-solid motor mounts (going in soon) whole drivetrain is twisted I’m guessing due to a shot mount.
-Stock Z tube
-v3 gktech angle kit
-v2 gktech superlock LCAs
-z1 rear control arms (race version)
-NRG prisma bucket seat
-NRG harness bar + harness
-GK steering wheel + NRG QR
-GK Dual caliper handbrake setup
-FDF Adjustable spring bucket

Want to buy front and rear bash bars, and adjustable front upper control arms.. other than that I’m not too sure what else there is left to buy for the car besides full cage and LS swap. Cold air intake? Plenum spacer? Any drifty bois/track guys feel free to chime in. Thanks for reading, hope everybody had a great new year!

 

Just curious, why do with a spring bucket as opposed to a true rear coil over and an adjustable toe arm?
I'd strongly consider a diff brace as well.

 

I found some BC coils slightly used from a friend for $600. He just sold because he upgraded to air suspension. I was under the impression that they were true coils until a few months go by and I end up installing them to find out they’re actually a divorced coilover. And at that point it was cheaper for me to just buy adjustable spring bucket instead of new Coilovers and toe arm. Some Formula Drift drivers like Chelsea denofa also prefer a divorced setup, so I’m not too worried about it. The adjustability is there, and they’re adjustable Coilovers. Thanks, yeah I forgot to mention I also plan on getting a dif brace !

 

I think you need to do some engine supporting modifications …

I would go get tuned and have your RPM limiter brought down to like 5500 to 6k rpm … I say this bc the DE engine will have a very short life if you run it at redline for as much as it needs to be run. Drop it down and your engine will last longer and you will be closer to your peak torque (rather than peak horsepower)…get tuned to optimize your mods too.

Possibly intake / exhaust work and a tune
big oil cooler
big power steering cooler
diff cooler / cover
buy an extra PS pump (as it will go out soon)

And I would add money for accelerated maintenance - oil changes, trans fluid changes, diff fluid, PS fluid, filter, etc

 

Tbh I’m kinda just hoping it blows soon so I can LS swap. Intakes seem pretty useless when it’s just sucking in hot air. I’ve heard the stock air box with Z tube does quite well. I’m mainly looking for drift supportive mods. Oil cooler is on the list, dif and PS coolers are a good idea though! Fluids are changed regularly including brake + clutch fluid and coolant when the car overheats. The 55-6000 rpm sounds nice on paper but idk how it would really perform on track. I can feel a noticeable difference between 5500 and 6500+ rpm when I’m in drift.

 

Breather mods is not gonna net you considerably more power but it will increase throttle response considering the fact that youre on and off throttle a lot. It will also shift your powerband up where youre likely to spend most your time. Id opt for a 3.69 or a 3.9 final drive depending on your track. Id suspect a 3.5 on stock power would get boggy in 3rd for bigger sweepers. Id consider a tilton or wilwood cmc also, stock cmc and slaves dont seem to like abuse either.

 

does anybody make a long tube intake that sits in the grill so it doesn’t heat soak? Because I believe the throttle response would be improved and maybe would make my redline more audible but won’t fold for a short ram and heat soaking for them benefits.

i have also thought about 3.9/4.06 gears, my local track is pretty slow and technical but there is another track I like to visit subfrequently that has a 60-70 mph sweeper and it definitely bogs down.

so far I have one full season with fresh oem master and slave, no problems yet. But I’m sure the upcoming season I may see some trouble.

 

If the car is overheating, an aftermarket radiator will do wonders.

 

a short Ram with proper heatshield works great, unless you drive your car at a standstill ( like on a dyno )

seat time and spare wheels, those help the most.

find a g37 in the junkyard, take the diff from it for a cheap 3.7 gear set

 

i just put in a koyorad. Noticed my stock radiator also was full of dust so that prolly had something to do with it. However it only overheated at hotlap events where I would do 2-3 laps at a time

 

yep I have loads of stock wheels. Also have thought about grabbing 370/g37 dif. I forget about g37/370 having 3.7 gears. Thanks for reminding me !

 

If you’re gonna swap than do it before the DE blows … you can sell a running DE for a pretty good price (could fund the LS).

This is true … no intake is going to give you monumental results but it’s small steps towards ‘some’ gains. And doing the intake mods and tuning (must tune) will yeild you results … The OEM intake tube isnt great for high-rev’ing flow and I think you’d see gains with a 3” (yes, taking air from the front of the car) and if you can insult the tube from engine bay / headers. And might as well do the spacer and motordyne mod and of course tune. But, do as you please - to each their own.

The drift scene isnt huge in Denver like it is in Colorado Springs and I see guys post their ‘Emergency - please help - need a DE engine before the weekend or I can’t compete in round XYZ’ and it usually bc they are bouncing off the rev-limiter, the oil pump cant keep up and they spin a bearing.

Could circle back to the intake / plenum / tune comment … if you can make the same (or more) power / torque at a lower RPM and save your engine is it worth it? Murphy’s Law and it will blow at the most inconveient time.

Alot of guys jump over to the koyo … mostly bc the OEM platic degrades/melts/breaks/leaks…