Redfoot

iTrader: (25)

Got the new front A arms installed this weekend. Along with a set of Hotchkis springs. No problems with the install, but as BJ said you must remove the shocks & springs to get clearance for the bolts holding the arms. Since I was doing the spring update, it was already planned. The only grey area was where to set the arms since I don't have a camber gauge yet. I decided to line up the cuts of the slots on the inside as a starting point, not very scientific but its good. Seems to drive fine for now, I will get a full alignment very soon. This is an easy DIY, but you do need a way to check your camber befor you drive it too much.

Redfoot

iTrader: (25)

jmark

iTrader: (1)

Redfoot,

How do you like the springs in combo with the Konis?

John

iTrader: (17)

Nice! Any noise from the bushings there?

Redfoot

iTrader: (25)

Jmark

Haven't had much time to feel these new parts out yet, but the ride seems to be quite a bit softer. My first impression was maybe to soft. Other than the springs, it could be that the spherical bearings in the arms are allowing the suspension to respond in a more linear fashion. As BJ has said there is a lot of wind up in those rubber bushings.

John
No noise at all from the bearings. Don't think there ever will be any they are a very solid setup.

John

iTrader: (17)

That's very very good news. to another quality 350Evo product...

MY350Z.COM

iTrader: (2)

Very nice, I love 350EVO products.

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

BJZ

John

iTrader: (17)

Redfoot, do you have to completely remove the front shock / spring assembly, or do you just need to unbolt the thing, move it towards you, and then reach the A-arm bolts from there. (I'm not sure if there is still clearance, it's been a little bit since I fiddled with the suspension).

Also, if you knew what your camber was, could you baseline the camber setting by lining it up to the size of the OEM A-arm?

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

You dont need to unbolt anything to adjsut camber. The 4 bolts just need to be loosened, then the plate will adjust the camber.
The best way to do the camber is this.
Measure where it is on the ground. Lets say its..then figure how much of an adjustment needs to be done.
Jack up the side just so the wheel and tire are slightly off the ground and then remeasure then adjust the needed amount to where it is in the air.
Tighten the bolts to there proper torque settings ...
lower the car.
and enjoy.
BJZ

Redfoot

iTrader: (25)

John,
I'm not sure that you can get enough clearance without removing the whole shock assembly. Don't know if you would save time by not just yanking it out all the way, you will have to fight the shock from jamming itself up into the fender after you pull it towards you enough to get to the bolts, then you will need to push it to either side as you torque the bolts down.

BJZ has probably advised you already that the adjusting nut plates shown above are installed backwards, they need to go on the top side.

I tried to set the arms B4 they were installed by lining them up with the originals but there didn't seem to be an accurate way to get a baseline measurement from the arms themselves. After installation and finding out I could not get an alignment done B4 hitting the track I got my trusty 2ft carpenters level out and used that to guage the camber angle (both sides were almost exact but I did not figure what degree they were set at, about 1/2 inch negative in 20"). You might be able to use something like that to check what it is now and set the new arms to match the bubble position. They worked great at the track but I think it needs a bit more negative setting. I need to get a camber gauge.

Hope this helps.

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

It depends on what the springs are like on the frotn shocks. If there is enough clearance (inst on OEM springs) the A arm bolts will fit reight between the coils......I would say most of the time it wont clear. They are pretty long bolts.

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

Any chance of a group buy on these?

myG35zx

iTrader: (2)

I finally broke down and ordered these. My front tires are badly worn from the Eibach springs and don't want to wear out replacement tires.

The next mod should be the sways, then springs/shocks. Any ideas?

Gracias.

AznIceRckt

i'm still trying to learn about suspension so bear with me...

i have heard of aftermarket tie rods regularly breaking on track/street/race/drift cars. so from my understanding... even if properly installed and adjusted... tie rods can still break from hard driving?

is there any such issue with camber arms or camber plates?

what other types of suspension modifications can reduce overall reliability of the suspension? such as changes to adjust toe/camber/caster.

-phil

MY350Z.COM

iTrader: (2)

Camber plates aren't used on this car.

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

Our products are the same exact ones that we race with in the Grand Am Cup Endurance series. They have proven themselves through racing to be strong, safe and reliable. Thats why by racing our products and using motorsports as the test area....we believe we can develop the best Dsignproducts on the market.

350EVO.com
Designed, developed, tested and proven thorugh Motorsports.

Cheers
BJZ