Help me evaluate my slips (ATCO)...
The ATCO meet was awesome, and it was my first time ever at the track...I couldn't wait to run. My first run of the day was my best (go figure). And it wasn't too bad....my second run really blew.
I ran with the spare, all my mats, and some other crap in the car.
Could some of you help me evaluate my slips. From what I have been reading my trap speeds seem kinda on the high side.
Mods = K&N drop in, RSR ExMAG GT II Catback Exhaust (silencers removed).
1st Run (ever):
------------------
Hooked up pretty good, dumped at about 1600 rpm. So nervous though feel like I really didn't hit my shifts where and how fast I wanted to.
60': 2.325
330 : 6.393
1/8 : 9.559
MPH: 79.05
990 : 12.157
1/4 : 14.4
MPH : 100.06
2nd Run:
------------
Launch was pretty bad. Spun through most of first and beginning of second...but feel like I hit 3rd and 4th perfectly, and very very quickly. Worse 1/4...better trap (???)
60': 2.658 (ouch)
330: 6.736
1/8: 9.920
MPH: 78.74
990: 12.522
1/4: 14.841
MPH: 100.08 (??)
So what does it all mean....LOL!!
I ran with the spare, all my mats, and some other crap in the car.
Could some of you help me evaluate my slips. From what I have been reading my trap speeds seem kinda on the high side.
Mods = K&N drop in, RSR ExMAG GT II Catback Exhaust (silencers removed).
1st Run (ever):
------------------
Hooked up pretty good, dumped at about 1600 rpm. So nervous though feel like I really didn't hit my shifts where and how fast I wanted to.
60': 2.325
330 : 6.393
1/8 : 9.559
MPH: 79.05
990 : 12.157
1/4 : 14.4
MPH : 100.06
2nd Run:
------------
Launch was pretty bad. Spun through most of first and beginning of second...but feel like I hit 3rd and 4th perfectly, and very very quickly. Worse 1/4...better trap (???)
60': 2.658 (ouch)
330: 6.736
1/8: 9.920
MPH: 78.74
990: 12.522
1/4: 14.841
MPH: 100.08 (??)
So what does it all mean....LOL!!
it means you need to work on your launch 90% of your time is in the 60ft, then you also need to shift faster that can save you some time too. on the stock tires you should be able to launch at 3500 or so at least, remember that some wheel spin is good, just not too much. try to feather the throttle until you feel em bite then floor it hard.
For every .10 you take off your 60 ft it will equal .20 in the 1/4 mile. So based on that and your trap if you were to get a 2.1 or 2.0 which is pretty much what good Z drivers are getting, you would be looking at 14.0 to 13.9 range.
Originally posted by zpeed350
From what I have been reading my trap speeds seem kinda on the high side.
From what I have been reading my trap speeds seem kinda on the high side.
Originally posted by Alberto
Sorry man that made me laugh.
I'll definately try playing with my tire pressure, and emptying the rest of my tools out of the car. I wasn't super prepared to race because I didn't know what to expect, and I ran my PSI at around 32-35....I know, thats ALOT.
Like I was saying, my ***** on my second run were much better. They may account for a worse launch and similiar trap speed. I was shifting very close to redline, I would say 6600. I was not powershifting.
Also, thanks for the info...now I have something to shoot for as far as a 60ft time. I know 2.3 wasn't very good, but really wasn't sure what the best I could expect would be on stock tires. And I didn't know people had hit 103 stock....that great.
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zpeed350,
Here is my advice.
SLIP the clutch
SLIP the clutch
SLIP the clutch on launch.
Here's what you do before you stage.
1) Watch the directors carefully. When they direct you to "on-deck" make sure you are not too close to the cars in front that are about to run (for safety reasons).
2) After the cars take off down the track ***GO AROUND THE WATER BOX*** Do not do a burnout in the waterbox. This will hurt you more than help you if you are running the factory tires. If you do a burnout in the water, the water will be caught by your factory tread and also water will be thrown into the wheel wells. Then once you go to stage, you have water seeping through the treads AND water dripping from the wheel wells onto your tread. From there you might as well be on ice....
3) Before you stage and after you have gone around the water box rev the car up to about 4500 and dump the clutch real quick to scrub the tires clean of all the little pebbles you picked up in the return lane and staging lanes. Keep your foot on the clutch while scrubbing the tires. If you feel any wheel hop push the clutch in immediately.
4) **MAKE SURE YOU ARE THE FIRST ONE TO STAGE** Make sure you do all the above things in a timely manor so that you are the first to the staging beams. Now stage the car.
5)If you are looking for a low ET then deep stage the car. Slowly creep into the beams. After you light both pre stage and stage you can roll about another inch or so and stop before you risk rolling through the pre stage beam.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a higher trap speed then shallow stage the car. Here you slowly light up the prestage beam, and then the instant you light the stage beam stop the car and wait there.
6) Now that you are staged you need to bring the RPMs up to where you want them to be and at the same time let the clutch out slowly until you feel it just grab. Hold the throttle steady and hold the clutch right at it disengagement point and wait for the tree.
7) When its time to go, let the clutch out a little and ride it while pushing the gas down at the same time. This will take some practice to master but once you do it, you'll be cutting much lower 60 footers than you were before. This technique will also allow you to trap higher than you would if you were "dumping" the clutch. Don't ever dump. It's bad for your drivetrain.
Here's a good example of how this technique can work for you if executed properly. Here is some numbers from my stock 93 RX-7. It's an R1 with 45kmi original on it. It even has the original tires from 1993 complete with sidewall dry-rot cracks. The rubber is harder than a rock, but using the technique i described i was able to pull off:
60' = 2.01
330 = 5.60
660' ET = 8.58
660' MPH = 83.999
Practice makes perfect
Here is my advice.
SLIP the clutch
SLIP the clutch
SLIP the clutch on launch.
Here's what you do before you stage.
1) Watch the directors carefully. When they direct you to "on-deck" make sure you are not too close to the cars in front that are about to run (for safety reasons).
2) After the cars take off down the track ***GO AROUND THE WATER BOX*** Do not do a burnout in the waterbox. This will hurt you more than help you if you are running the factory tires. If you do a burnout in the water, the water will be caught by your factory tread and also water will be thrown into the wheel wells. Then once you go to stage, you have water seeping through the treads AND water dripping from the wheel wells onto your tread. From there you might as well be on ice....
3) Before you stage and after you have gone around the water box rev the car up to about 4500 and dump the clutch real quick to scrub the tires clean of all the little pebbles you picked up in the return lane and staging lanes. Keep your foot on the clutch while scrubbing the tires. If you feel any wheel hop push the clutch in immediately.
4) **MAKE SURE YOU ARE THE FIRST ONE TO STAGE** Make sure you do all the above things in a timely manor so that you are the first to the staging beams. Now stage the car.
5)If you are looking for a low ET then deep stage the car. Slowly creep into the beams. After you light both pre stage and stage you can roll about another inch or so and stop before you risk rolling through the pre stage beam.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a higher trap speed then shallow stage the car. Here you slowly light up the prestage beam, and then the instant you light the stage beam stop the car and wait there.
6) Now that you are staged you need to bring the RPMs up to where you want them to be and at the same time let the clutch out slowly until you feel it just grab. Hold the throttle steady and hold the clutch right at it disengagement point and wait for the tree.
7) When its time to go, let the clutch out a little and ride it while pushing the gas down at the same time. This will take some practice to master but once you do it, you'll be cutting much lower 60 footers than you were before. This technique will also allow you to trap higher than you would if you were "dumping" the clutch. Don't ever dump. It's bad for your drivetrain.
Here's a good example of how this technique can work for you if executed properly. Here is some numbers from my stock 93 RX-7. It's an R1 with 45kmi original on it. It even has the original tires from 1993 complete with sidewall dry-rot cracks. The rubber is harder than a rock, but using the technique i described i was able to pull off:
60' = 2.01
330 = 5.60
660' ET = 8.58
660' MPH = 83.999
Practice makes perfect
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