Ok guys if i find out i need new lifters after all my head work. Can someone pleaseeeeeee tell me were i can in fact purchase them.


Thank You Glen

 

I see you have the JWT cams....what else have you done to the heads ? That warrant new lifters

 

Try Crower, i'm sure they would be willing to help you.

 

I changed my whole valve train to ferreas kit, and had the valves put in at a radius cut instead of a 3 to 5 angle. So i might need different lifters so i have the correct valve lash.

Thanks Glen

 

check out this thread https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....7&pagenumber=2

 

Thank you everyone i have in fact found my problem. The lifters are not the correct size they are to thin. I need to buy thicker lifters now. Can someone please tell me a company that sells all different lifter sizes.

Thank you everyone

Sincerely, Glen

 

Nissan Parts Department !!

 

yes, you buy these lifters from nissan.

I will explain how this work.

The lifter is the little "bucket" that sits on top of your valve, and under the camshaft. You need to have the proper clearance between the lifter and the cam. So these lifters are available in various thickness that range about 20 thou.

So keep in mind, the range they are available in is not very large. Meaning that if your valve job left you with an incorrect stem height, you WILL NOT be able to get lifters that are thick enough and then you will have to have your valve job redone with the valves sunk in further.

You get these lifters from nissan.

The procedure is this. You put in 6 lifters and one cam and torque it to spec. While making sure every time you rotate the cam you are not going to be hitting a piston with a valve. You use feeler gauges to measure the clearance between the lifter and camshaft. If you are trying to obtain 0.010" clearance, but you have 0.030", then you take that lifter out and measure it, then add 0.020" to its thickness and order that thickness lifter. However, if your REALLY 0.020" out of spec your probably screwed because the available lifters only range about 0.020" so your gonna need a new valve job. Also keep in mind that if your engine is low miles, you dont need to mic out the lifters to measure their current thickness... there is a stamp on the underside of them that references to a chart in the service manual and you can just look up their thickness... these do not start to thin until heavy mileage or a shitload of abuse so the stamp is typically gonna be accurate on our low miles engines, but I would measure at least a few just to be certain so you dont have to go thru this twice...

because you have to take the time to do this with all 4 cams, then you have to swap around and order lifters... once you have them all you need to check it one more time to make sure you did your math right. a few thousand out of spec and your looking at issues... possibilities such as aggressive and rapid valvetrain wear, and valvetrain noise (ticking).

Many engines have the same layout. Such as 3SGTES, Most motorcycle cylinder heads, VG30DETT (cept they use oil pressure in the lifters for a one size fits all), 2JZGTE, and many others. Some engines use shims rather then replacing the whole lifter... but this shimless lifter technique is the best.

 

Who did you get to cut a radiused valve seat? It is very hard to find someone who is actually willing to try to cut a radius because not many are good at it and not many even have the machinery. This is why so many people just go for the multi angle valve job. Also, make sure your valves have near perfect tolerances on their seats, otherwise there is no point to a radiused seat in the head.

 

I had a local engine machine shop do it. They have all the machines to do radius cuts. They do them often on their engines. After they were done they checked out the valve seats to make sure they were perfectly closed, and seated properly with one of their machines they have. Also they put my heads on a flow bench, and ported and polished were they needed to. Along with honing and polishing my intake runner and intake manifold. The only problem is i need new lifters now after the upgraded valve job.

Thanks Glen

 

That sounds great, good luck.

 

The nissan factory manual says the clearance of the camshaft and the lifter should be .010 to .013 i was wondering if i should set them all to .012.
The clearance i have currently is as high as .027

What would be the ideal clearances for the jwt cams and the lifters.

Thanks Glen

 

My suggestion would be to set them at the max, .013, because the valves will get tighter over time as the valve seats get pounded into the aluminum head. My experience with Ferraris, SBC's, Lotus and VW's is that the valves get tighter on most aluminum head motors. Check with JWT and see what they say to use for clearance with their cams. It may be different than the factory spec. Jim may also have a source for other valve shims that will work if Nissan does not make the right thickness. Many overhead cam motors use shims from Jaguar to Fiat and many motorcycles.
Good luck.

 

Thank you for the info.

Sincerely Glen

 

Zmego1985: I was right wasnt i??? thats what i posted saying that i bet your problem is with the knock sensor! with your clearance so far out of spec i hope you do not keep driving the car!

-charles

 

Yes you were correct and no im not driving the Z until i get it fixed properly. Its already opened up again in my garage. I just hope i can get the sizes i need from nissan. I have about double the clearance im suppose to have. Lucky for me I in fact found the problem in time, and the lifters were loose compared to to tight, because if they were to tight i could of beat my camshafts and new valves to hell.

Thank you for your help

Glen

 

In our race engines, we always run the tightest recommended valve lash. We do this because you get less wear running less lash (the cam doesn't hit the lifter with as much force). Also, more wear occurs between the cam and the lifter because they are two rubbing surfaces as opposed to the spring seats where it is more of a pressure wear which if the head is cast well enough (which nissan heads are) there will be minimal compression wear on the spring seat.

BTW, I am currently building (4) Cosworth 4cyl engines for a vintage open-wheel car.