06CPV35

There's proof, professional scientific proof. I know a lot more than you give me credit for
Yes my opinion and a professionals (did you miss that part in my post)...accept it or not, but don't refer to what I stated as not valuable.

Your second para...I'll bet you a cookie any engine will fail later on down the road prematurely if you beat the crap out of it continually, especially from day 1.
Yes again my opinion and a professionals...again accept that or not. Not valuable info, I disagree.
Care for a gentleman's bet on that one? We'll talk 10, 20, maybe 40K if it makes it that long with that treatment.

Did you not understand my mention of an UOA being your friend. Guess that wasn't valuable info either
Without one in hand, no one knows their **** from a hole in the ground as far as what's really going on with their VQ internally and why. Sheez...amatures.

The smart ones will know later on here whether to accept what I've said as valuable.

G/L to you in what you wish to feel as valuable info here or not. Wish you the best my Z cousin.

ZeeForce

Wow…I have not seen or heard of anyone using motoman’s method.
Are you the first?
Who else do you know, that has used it?

Maybe I should add a column to the Stats List, on break-in methods.

I do not think you ever responded to my Stats List info request that I sent you over 4 weeks ago.
Or did I miss it in my inbox?

Please resend, in all your spare time.

Thanks in advance
-Curtis

Note: 06CPV35 did indicate based on observations from this thread that baffle him regarding: break-in and no OC and vice versa. And furthermore he found one source, and not his opinion, but a professional source on the break-in and scientific testing of the oil to determine the wear on internal components of the VQ.

Keeping an open mind and with all due respect to others opinion of break-in methods, There is no one to date, with substantial concrete proof as to the best method for break-in, nor has anyone torn down the new or old engine to inspect the component seal and integrity of the new engine, nor the failing components of the failed old engine. Therefore when someone comes forward and has information from a professional source, then they have my attention. When someone tells me that a UOA is the best source for internal engine component analysis, and anyone of us has the resources to research and confirm the validity of the claim, I believe my attention will be focused towards scientific testing in a lab (using my oil, from my engine, and my driving habits) by an expert tribolgist for advice and recommendations.


”Professional Source”, is not one more mans opinion. A UOA is the best and only reliable PROOF without having to tear down the engine.

Get a UOA and let’s see how your components have sealed under the motoman method and your thrashing of it right out of the box. We can then compare it to the UOA and break-in method from the professional source.


This thread is useless without Stats and UOA’s

ZeeForce

Well done, I would strongly suggest a UOA, well worth it at the mileage you are at….9,000 mi. And keep it easy on the V2 still at this mileage. Working with a professional tribologist on tuning the engine and making recommendations is worth every penny…$60.00 a small price to pay for professional advice from a scientist. The ˝ qrt per oil change interval can be reduced and ownership longevity is priceless.

PM me if you need more info.

-Curtis

RBlover69

iTrader: (2)

no doubt, what the other poster didnt know was i was was of the first with the v-2 aswell.

Nothing is guarenteed with anything really, oil consumption can stem for so many reasons with this engine because of the changes made to it but im glad that using this ow40 in conjunction with my driving style i been virtually consumption free.

I also recommend letting the car sit for 15 mins before checking oil readings. when i first got my v-2 i would flip because i thought the oil was down again. After i let the car sit for 10 mins i rechecked and found that oil back at H. Looks like oil circulation maybey ? I believe its just either the vacum in this engine or the break in process opon letting the engine seat properely because i did baby mine in the beginning i mean it never saw 4k for months. Then after my 4th oil change of 0w40 i started to get on it. And no test since my first have i seen any decreasment.

Remember these engines are quiet robust NA wise but i believe with our issue a proper break in maybey it or driving style. i do drive 26 miles a day so i dunno why some have a solution some dont there the same handbuilt engine.


But one things for sure

this engine is more powerfull then my v1. Me and one of my good friends with a HR race eachother and she noticed the change aswell.
Even though there is no modifications that would alter power in this v-2 besides slightly modified pistons codes and rings. This engine has shown to be more livily in racing her and is noticable.

Dont ask me how what where..im just telling you before i used to get beat by car lengths with my v-1 ...and now im at her door. same car same place different races all stock except since then she got a exhaust so for me to be anywhere near her is a feat.
I was really surprised im confident that with a 1/2 spacer and mrev2 with my exhaust and hi flos i should be able to beat her no prob. and trust it will be vid for the mass.


gotta represent revups.

BabyZiLLa

iTrader: (7)

The reason I have not responded is my V2 install keeps getting stalled. It's the middle of winter here and the car is parked. It goes in on Mar 14th now.

My main problem with what your saying is the term "Professional Source". Everyone is a professional these days. All it is is another opinion. Doesn't mean it's correct.

Truth is. Noone has a fuc*ing clue.. I was hoping GTM would take a donation consuming engine and rip it down to tell us what the issue is. Since Nissan obviouslly can't find it.

RBlover69

iTrader: (2)

well in your case there is still a issue , there must be some defining variable thats being overlooked due to my engine not consuming and other v2s and other revups . So you cant say that the issue exists in all people with the v2 or even a v1.

Though i have no idea why some resolve the issue and some dont. Your statements make it seem like we all continue to have the issue when in fact there is already proof that there must be other factors in play that are unknown if some are resolved and some are not.

jason350z

iTrader: (8)

so how should i break in the engine. i was following the manual which was same as what the dealer said. keep rpms under 4,000 and accelerate slowly

i did a little google search and it said the opposite to do quick fast accelerations then lettign it decelerate
so how do i break in the engine

BabyZiLLa

iTrader: (7)

That's not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying that although some are not not consuming. Noone here knows why. Nor do they know why the others on the flip side are consuming.

You can give me your "professional source" opinions all day. The truth is none of you. Nor myself. Nor any of these professionals actually know. There guessing.

I'm sure Nissan has ripped down numerous consuming blocks to look at them. More than anyone else. And even they can't tell you what's going on. If they could it would be fixed.

Theres no proof on either side of the break in argument. It's all opinion. There is however proof that breaking in an engine hard seats the piston rings correctly. But we don't know it is the piston rings..

To sum it up.. Noone knows. The 06 is now 3 years old. Noone will ever know. Deal with it. Build it.. Buy back.. Theres the options.

ZPimp

If you've been reading these stories the type of oil (synthetic vs. standard) OR the method of break-in really doesn't matter. It's probably not rings as you suspect. Nissan probably knows now but their not going to tell as they didn't when they released the V2. Now that the V2s are popping up as failures they refuse to address it with a V3 - corporate neglect again.

Both my V1 and V2 consumed and I broke them in by the book. The V1 I used standard and the V2 Mobile One 0-40. So go figure.

ZPimp

So we should buy an expensive sports car but keep it easy at 9,000 because it might consume oil. On top of that we should go buy an oil analysis out of pocket and like a crystal ball it might tell us what? That we don't need to be pairanoid of when OC will set in? My goodness!

Super Black

So I finally called NNA, requesting them to take my car back and give me a refund. My case is still being reviewed. They supposed to tell me the decision today but for some reason they said they didn't receive the paper work today (the reports of what have done to my car) from the dealer. It's been 2 days and I'm so very disappointed because I know for sure that they didn't follow up with the dealer which explains why they didn't get the reports! It's either that or they are lying to me. Anyway, I'm still on my original engine. I'm about to take it back to the dealer as I'm almost through with the 1K-mile oil consumption test. I requested a buy back because this is the third time a major part broke.

First, at 13K miles, my crankshaft position sensor went bad. I guess when I took it to the dealer they found another problem with my crankshaft assembly --- they fixed this too. I also had rattles coming from the rearend. They did fix this one also (but now the noise is back). Now, at 26K miles, the oil consumption problem!!! For god's sake I bought my car new and it shouldn't be breaking apart on me this early!!!

Hopefully, I get qualified for a buy back. I "should" hear back from them on Monday (that's if the dealership gets the chance to send them the reports on my car!) Will keep you posted.

Sickboy101

iTrader: (45)

I'm relatively new to the forum and have an '06 MT with approx. 24,000 KM on it. In the last month I've been reading a bit about the oil consumption issues with the 06's. Currently my car is in storage but I have a few questions in regards to this issue of excessive oil consumpton.

1. Aside from checking your oil regularly are their and other symptons/signs of excessive oil consumption?

2. What percentage of the '06 models have this problem - is this fairly common?

3. I'm due for my next service in late March. Can I have my dealers service department perform a test to check for this issue?

Sorry if these questions are repetitve and thanks for any advice on this issue.

myZter

iTrader: (7)

im breakin in my new engine right now and im just driving it as i always do keeping it under 4 rpm to save little gas and as for using other oil like 0w40 why would you. our car should handle any oil (that could be used on V2) that we use if not then the engine still has problems imo

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

woooo. just ran the dragon today. ran with an S2K CR for about 5 minutes at 10/10ths flat out. fastest ive ever gone up there and I go up there pretty often. even hit 103 on Cooper straight, didnt lift through any of the sweepin turns. ANYHOW, got back and the oil is down a half inch on the dipstick 0_0 good thing they ordered the V2 for my car

I'll let yall know if the V2 gives me any problems.

ZPimp

+1 can't agree more that we don't know what it is and Nissan has ripped every one of these motors apart including my old V2. They are baffled otherwise they would have fixed it.

ZPimp

This is not only a ring problem - you assume it is but its not. There HAS TO BE ANOTHER UNDERLYING ISSUE because you know they put better rings in the V2 assuming it would fix the issue. They also did something else because the V2 performs completely different and has more mid-range torque.

ZPimp

There was a Nissan Tech on the other forum who said what I believe may be the reason: unequal cylinder wall heat distribution.

He said Japan told them this is due to the rev up (on '06 MT models) having high compression heads - that's the only design change which gives this model more HP. Tests show the top of the cylinder where the heads are produce too much heat for the aluminum engine. The top portion of the aluminum cylinder walls are expanding due to the heat of higher compression heads - but unequally expanding so the lowere portion of the cylinder is much cooler. This causes oil to blow by the rings and into the combustion chamber hence blowby and why you see soot in the tail pipes.

ZPimp

Unequal heat distribution in the cylinder walls due to the higher compression heads - the only relevant design change in this model explains why you will experience more OC if you drive hard at higher RPMs which really causes the motor to heat up.

ZPimp

There's a guy on the other forum who tested this himself - he drove easy low rpm for 200 miles and checked the oil. Then drove in rev up range hard several times where the motor heated up several times for the next 200 miles. There was someting like 3 times the loss of oil in millimeters on the dip when driving hard.

I can't do this b/c my second V2 is not complely broke in but I might test the hypothisis since it is repeatable.

MoJ

That will increase oil consumption on any engine.