RevUp Oil Consumption TSB and discussion
11-07-2008, 04:11 PM
#3621
If he really worked on just yours the whole time, I feel for the dealership that employs him! Unless of course there were unseen issues that kept coming up but 7 days are still way too many.
I called my service advisor today to have the tech take a look at my clutch pedal (makes a ticking sound) and also lower the clutch engagement point while the car is there. It will now be ready tomorrow by lunch.
I called my service advisor today to have the tech take a look at my clutch pedal (makes a ticking sound) and also lower the clutch engagement point while the car is there. It will now be ready tomorrow by lunch.
11-08-2008, 08:17 AM
#3622
Yup! Got it back! The biggest change I have noticed is that the idle is smoother. I had always topped off my oil to keep it from running low but during the 2K mile consumption test, my cylinders ran dry enough to cause a slightly rough and louder idle.
BTW, the service invoice from the dealership read $7,617! My service advisor smiled and said it will be a nice payday when the NNA check comes in.
I hope this is the last engine I need.
BTW, the service invoice from the dealership read $7,617! My service advisor smiled and said it will be a nice payday when the NNA check comes in.
I hope this is the last engine I need.
11-08-2008, 01:51 PM
#3623
Yup! Got it back! The biggest change I have noticed is that the idle is smoother. I had always topped off my oil to keep it from running low but during the 2K mile consumption test, my cylinders ran dry enough to cause a slightly rough and louder idle.
BTW, the service invoice from the dealership read $7,617! My service advisor smiled and said it will be a nice payday when the NNA check comes in.
I hope this is the last engine I need.
BTW, the service invoice from the dealership read $7,617! My service advisor smiled and said it will be a nice payday when the NNA check comes in.
I hope this is the last engine I need.
11-09-2008, 03:21 PM
#3624
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I just stumbled across this thread after checking my engine oil (Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30) and the dipstick didn't even touch any oil!! I got the oil filled back up but my engine oil should not be so low, given the time since my last oil change.
I plan to call the service manager at my local dealership tomorrow and talk to him about this TSB. I'm just wondering what kind of experience I'll receive from a dealer who probably hasn't encountered this TSB before (Huntsville, AL - Regal Nissan). It would be nice if it was a dealer who had already worked through the process a few times already.
Also, my factory warranty is up on my car (06 base - M/T). The TSB is not voided by the lack of a warranty, correct?
I plan to call the service manager at my local dealership tomorrow and talk to him about this TSB. I'm just wondering what kind of experience I'll receive from a dealer who probably hasn't encountered this TSB before (Huntsville, AL - Regal Nissan). It would be nice if it was a dealer who had already worked through the process a few times already.
Also, my factory warranty is up on my car (06 base - M/T). The TSB is not voided by the lack of a warranty, correct?
11-10-2008, 05:23 AM
#3625
I just stumbled across this thread after checking my engine oil (Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30) and the dipstick didn't even touch any oil!! I got the oil filled back up but my engine oil should not be so low, given the time since my last oil change.
I plan to call the service manager at my local dealership tomorrow and talk to him about this TSB. I'm just wondering what kind of experience I'll receive from a dealer who probably hasn't encountered this TSB before (Huntsville, AL - Regal Nissan). It would be nice if it was a dealer who had already worked through the process a few times already.
Also, my factory warranty is up on my car (06 base - M/T). The TSB is not voided by the lack of a warranty, correct?
I plan to call the service manager at my local dealership tomorrow and talk to him about this TSB. I'm just wondering what kind of experience I'll receive from a dealer who probably hasn't encountered this TSB before (Huntsville, AL - Regal Nissan). It would be nice if it was a dealer who had already worked through the process a few times already.
Also, my factory warranty is up on my car (06 base - M/T). The TSB is not voided by the lack of a warranty, correct?
11-10-2008, 07:12 AM
#3626
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Edit: Yeah, just called the service manager back and he said if the car has 70k miles then I'd have to pay for the whole thing. Oh well, time to stock up on oil
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-10-2008 at 07:24 AM.
11-10-2008, 07:56 AM
#3627
Hello, this is the first time I've replied to anything I've read but I have found the reading to be very interesting. I just got my 2006 350z back yesterday from the dealer after the first and hopefully last engine replacement. I have a couple of questions,
1) I was told by the dealer to drive the car like you would any new car for the break in period. I was reading about someone who stated they were starting the dreadful and painstaking break in period....are there things that should be done that the dealer isn' saying?
2) I was reading on the Mobil 1 website that the new Niaasn GT R will come from the factory with Mobil 1. I had used it in my Z prior to the new engine so I bought 5 qts and told the dealer to put it in when they fill the new engine. When I picked the car up they said Nissan recomends regular 5w 30 and didn't put the Mobil 1 in. The service mgr had told me when I had asked about putting Mobil 1 in that he was not keen on it. What do you think?
I want to give this new engine every chance I can to not burn oil and I don't feel I'm getting enough info from the dealer since they told me I was the first replacement they did and had never heard about this problem til I showed up.
Any information you can give will be appreciated..........Thanks
1) I was told by the dealer to drive the car like you would any new car for the break in period. I was reading about someone who stated they were starting the dreadful and painstaking break in period....are there things that should be done that the dealer isn' saying?
2) I was reading on the Mobil 1 website that the new Niaasn GT R will come from the factory with Mobil 1. I had used it in my Z prior to the new engine so I bought 5 qts and told the dealer to put it in when they fill the new engine. When I picked the car up they said Nissan recomends regular 5w 30 and didn't put the Mobil 1 in. The service mgr had told me when I had asked about putting Mobil 1 in that he was not keen on it. What do you think?
I want to give this new engine every chance I can to not burn oil and I don't feel I'm getting enough info from the dealer since they told me I was the first replacement they did and had never heard about this problem til I showed up.
Any information you can give will be appreciated..........Thanks
1) Yes, i would follow the 1,200 miles break-in procedure for the new engine.
2) I always bring Mobil 1 5W-30 to my Nissan dealer and have them do oil changes. It was never a problem for me.
11-11-2008, 07:20 AM
#3628
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Well I just wanted to update you guys. Tomorrow, I'm meeting with the Morley representative to surrender my car at the local Nissan dealership. It's been real fun guys, and I will miss my Z. Well I take that back, I will just miss a RWD sports car. I already bought my replacement car, it's a daily driver 06 Acura TSX 6MT w/ Nav. Found a great deal on one from craigslist for 21K!!!! Only 12K miles on it.
Just a heads up though, these last 2 weeks with my Z have been bittersweet. I wanted to drive it as much as possible, but a new problem started with the engine 2 weekends ago..
I parked at the grocery store, came back out and my car wouldnt start! Then after about 15 tries it finally started, with all the SES, Traction Control, and SLIP lights on. I had no idea what was wrong so i babied it home into my garage. Reset the ECU, and the lights went away. Didn't drive it again for a week (too busy enjoying my tsx). I tried driving it to work this past friday cuz it was a nice day and going up the 110 fwy ramp my car started shuttering and wouldnt accelerate! I couldnt get it over 40mph and my car was shaking violently making exploding sounds under the hood. I pulled off the next exit and my car just sputtered and died. Someone had to help me push it to the side of the road. It was embarassing man.. I called my friend to come bring a quart of oil because I thought thats what it needed. Before he was about to leave, I tried starting it again, and it finally started. Limped it back home, checked the oil level, although it was halfway down the dipstick it wasn't empty. I had no idea what was causing this until I took it into Technosquare yesterday to get the engine code read (died twice on the way there). Tadashi at Technosquare tried to rev my engine in neutral and the car died again. He looked behind the engine with a flashlight and moved his hand around there, he asked me if anyone worked on my car? And I said no, why? (completely forgetting that I had a V2 motor installed) He said that the wires in the back aren't even in their proper places, and the vaccum line is twisted. Then I totally remembered about the V2 and mentioned it to them. He said which dealer was this?? I told him WCN and he added they didn't do a very good job. He was able to solve what was wrong with my car though, due to an out of place wire or sensor that controlled the cams. I dont have the paper he gave me with what was wrong with the car, but i can get it later. He moved his hand around, and tried putting the sensor back into the correct place. Started it up and it was fine! Drove home with absolutely no problems. I called him later at home to let him know it was succesful, and asked if i could drive it normally now until tomorrow. He warned me not to drive the engine hard because the vacuum line looked like under high pressure it would come loose. I just want to get rid of this thing ASAP. So for those of you who had V2 swaps make sure it's correctly installed.
Just a heads up though, these last 2 weeks with my Z have been bittersweet. I wanted to drive it as much as possible, but a new problem started with the engine 2 weekends ago..
I parked at the grocery store, came back out and my car wouldnt start! Then after about 15 tries it finally started, with all the SES, Traction Control, and SLIP lights on. I had no idea what was wrong so i babied it home into my garage. Reset the ECU, and the lights went away. Didn't drive it again for a week (too busy enjoying my tsx). I tried driving it to work this past friday cuz it was a nice day and going up the 110 fwy ramp my car started shuttering and wouldnt accelerate! I couldnt get it over 40mph and my car was shaking violently making exploding sounds under the hood. I pulled off the next exit and my car just sputtered and died. Someone had to help me push it to the side of the road. It was embarassing man.. I called my friend to come bring a quart of oil because I thought thats what it needed. Before he was about to leave, I tried starting it again, and it finally started. Limped it back home, checked the oil level, although it was halfway down the dipstick it wasn't empty. I had no idea what was causing this until I took it into Technosquare yesterday to get the engine code read (died twice on the way there). Tadashi at Technosquare tried to rev my engine in neutral and the car died again. He looked behind the engine with a flashlight and moved his hand around there, he asked me if anyone worked on my car? And I said no, why? (completely forgetting that I had a V2 motor installed) He said that the wires in the back aren't even in their proper places, and the vaccum line is twisted. Then I totally remembered about the V2 and mentioned it to them. He said which dealer was this?? I told him WCN and he added they didn't do a very good job. He was able to solve what was wrong with my car though, due to an out of place wire or sensor that controlled the cams. I dont have the paper he gave me with what was wrong with the car, but i can get it later. He moved his hand around, and tried putting the sensor back into the correct place. Started it up and it was fine! Drove home with absolutely no problems. I called him later at home to let him know it was succesful, and asked if i could drive it normally now until tomorrow. He warned me not to drive the engine hard because the vacuum line looked like under high pressure it would come loose. I just want to get rid of this thing ASAP. So for those of you who had V2 swaps make sure it's correctly installed.
11-11-2008, 09:16 AM
#3629
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i think i will get a new engine from oil consumption, should i run a test 1 more time just to make sure? Also whats the best way to rbeak the engine in once i get it? dealership told me to keep it below 6,000 rpm until the first 1,000 miles
11-11-2008, 01:49 PM
#3630
Hello, this is the first time I've replied to anything I've read but I have found the reading to be very interesting. I just got my 2006 350z back yesterday from the dealer after the first and hopefully last engine replacement. I have a couple of questions,
1) I was told by the dealer to drive the car like you would any new car for the break in period. I was reading about someone who stated they were starting the dreadful and painstaking break in period....are there things that should be done that the dealer isn' saying?
2) I was reading on the Mobil 1 website that the new Niaasn GT R will come from the factory with Mobil 1. I had used it in my Z prior to the new engine so I bought 5 qts and told the dealer to put it in when they fill the new engine. When I picked the car up they said Nissan recomends regular 5w 30 and didn't put the Mobil 1 in. The service mgr had told me when I had asked about putting Mobil 1 in that he was not keen on it. What do you think?
I want to give this new engine every chance I can to not burn oil and I don't feel I'm getting enough info from the dealer since they told me I was the first replacement they did and had never heard about this problem til I showed up.
Any information you can give will be appreciated..........Thanks
1) I was told by the dealer to drive the car like you would any new car for the break in period. I was reading about someone who stated they were starting the dreadful and painstaking break in period....are there things that should be done that the dealer isn' saying?
2) I was reading on the Mobil 1 website that the new Niaasn GT R will come from the factory with Mobil 1. I had used it in my Z prior to the new engine so I bought 5 qts and told the dealer to put it in when they fill the new engine. When I picked the car up they said Nissan recomends regular 5w 30 and didn't put the Mobil 1 in. The service mgr had told me when I had asked about putting Mobil 1 in that he was not keen on it. What do you think?
I want to give this new engine every chance I can to not burn oil and I don't feel I'm getting enough info from the dealer since they told me I was the first replacement they did and had never heard about this problem til I showed up.
Any information you can give will be appreciated..........Thanks
Factory break-in method is on post one here. ...mine was not done with break-in at 3750mi.
ZeeForce has basically stated my break-in method and my oil intervals I used below (I did one more oil change at 3750 mark, then going a full 3750 interval to 7500mi). Oh...and my V2 was in the NG range on TSB OC chart up until after 1750mi mark (which was when I did my 3rd oil change); seems to be staying in the 'ok' range status now.
My G35 owners manual says 10w-30 and even 10w-40 can be used with 5w-30 being only the perferred choice. Dealers seem to say no to 100% Synth out of the box on these VQ35DE's. I have mixed opinions about all that.
Good info below...
.............
To be honest it’s not how much your fresh engine is consuming, its all about “what the condition your engine is in during break-in”. 06CPV35 learned from my experiences and UOA’, with better results than me and from the recommendation of Terry Dyson of www.dysonanalysis.com and Will (Resolute) and his VQ Oil Analysis thread.
Proven tips:
1. Drain the oil within five minutes after you receive the car back from dealer.
2. Drain the oil again after 200-500 miles
3. Drain the oil again after 1500 miles
4. Go an entire oil change interval with 3750 miles on this oil change.
5. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 or Valvoline Durablend 10w-30
6. Use an Amsoil oil filter.
7. Keep your air filter very clean, I cannot stress enough about this, and if you are using cotton oil based filter, seriously consider going to paper.
8. Have the used oil analyzed by Terry Dyson after 3750 mi ($60.00)
9. As soon as you get it, but it really does not matter when, is to put a load on it. Uphill WOT, never over revving past 4k rpm and when you reach 65mph, then back off. Do this 5 times. It will help with seating the pistons and rings.
10. Then drive the car within the mfg guidelines within the recommended miles, never exceeding 4k rpm.
11. Do not take for granted that once you hit the mfg break in miles of 2k (or is it 4k, I do not remember) that the engine is broke in. Have it analyzed by Terry Dyson. It’s not how we break-in the engines, it’s the condition of the engine after every oil drain during this break-in period. With that said the way we (06CPV35 and myself) have worked with Terry, appear to be having the best results on these freshly built engines.
06CPV35 chime in, if you are nearby. btw: Can you confirm from his pics if they replaced with new the PCV valve? It looks like they did, I see it on the rhs of the engine.
Hope this Helps
Cheers
Curtis
To be honest it’s not how much your fresh engine is consuming, its all about “what the condition your engine is in during break-in”. 06CPV35 learned from my experiences and UOA’, with better results than me and from the recommendation of Terry Dyson of www.dysonanalysis.com and Will (Resolute) and his VQ Oil Analysis thread.
Proven tips:
1. Drain the oil within five minutes after you receive the car back from dealer.
2. Drain the oil again after 200-500 miles
3. Drain the oil again after 1500 miles
4. Go an entire oil change interval with 3750 miles on this oil change.
5. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 or Valvoline Durablend 10w-30
6. Use an Amsoil oil filter.
7. Keep your air filter very clean, I cannot stress enough about this, and if you are using cotton oil based filter, seriously consider going to paper.
8. Have the used oil analyzed by Terry Dyson after 3750 mi ($60.00)
9. As soon as you get it, but it really does not matter when, is to put a load on it. Uphill WOT, never over revving past 4k rpm and when you reach 65mph, then back off. Do this 5 times. It will help with seating the pistons and rings.
10. Then drive the car within the mfg guidelines within the recommended miles, never exceeding 4k rpm.
11. Do not take for granted that once you hit the mfg break in miles of 2k (or is it 4k, I do not remember) that the engine is broke in. Have it analyzed by Terry Dyson. It’s not how we break-in the engines, it’s the condition of the engine after every oil drain during this break-in period. With that said the way we (06CPV35 and myself) have worked with Terry, appear to be having the best results on these freshly built engines.
06CPV35 chime in, if you are nearby. btw: Can you confirm from his pics if they replaced with new the PCV valve? It looks like they did, I see it on the rhs of the engine.
Hope this Helps
Cheers
Curtis
11-11-2008, 05:57 PM
#3631
Well I just wanted to update you guys. Tomorrow, I'm meeting with the Morley representative to surrender my car at the local Nissan dealership. It's been real fun guys, and I will miss my Z. Well I take that back, I will just miss a RWD sports car. I already bought my replacement car, it's a daily driver 06 Acura TSX 6MT w/ Nav. Found a great deal on one from craigslist for 21K!!!! Only 12K miles on it.
Just a heads up though, these last 2 weeks with my Z have been bittersweet. I wanted to drive it as much as possible, but a new problem started with the engine 2 weekends ago..
I parked at the grocery store, came back out and my car wouldnt start! Then after about 15 tries it finally started, with all the SES, Traction Control, and SLIP lights on. I had no idea what was wrong so i babied it home into my garage. Reset the ECU, and the lights went away. Didn't drive it again for a week (too busy enjoying my tsx). I tried driving it to work this past friday cuz it was a nice day and going up the 110 fwy ramp my car started shuttering and wouldnt accelerate! I couldnt get it over 40mph and my car was shaking violently making exploding sounds under the hood. I pulled off the next exit and my car just sputtered and died. Someone had to help me push it to the side of the road. It was embarassing man.. I called my friend to come bring a quart of oil because I thought thats what it needed. Before he was about to leave, I tried starting it again, and it finally started. Limped it back home, checked the oil level, although it was halfway down the dipstick it wasn't empty. I had no idea what was causing this until I took it into Technosquare yesterday to get the engine code read (died twice on the way there). Tadashi at Technosquare tried to rev my engine in neutral and the car died again. He looked behind the engine with a flashlight and moved his hand around there, he asked me if anyone worked on my car? And I said no, why? (completely forgetting that I had a V2 motor installed) He said that the wires in the back aren't even in their proper places, and the vaccum line is twisted. Then I totally remembered about the V2 and mentioned it to them. He said which dealer was this?? I told him WCN and he added they didn't do a very good job. He was able to solve what was wrong with my car though, due to an out of place wire or sensor that controlled the cams. I dont have the paper he gave me with what was wrong with the car, but i can get it later. He moved his hand around, and tried putting the sensor back into the correct place. Started it up and it was fine! Drove home with absolutely no problems. I called him later at home to let him know it was succesful, and asked if i could drive it normally now until tomorrow. He warned me not to drive the engine hard because the vacuum line looked like under high pressure it would come loose. I just want to get rid of this thing ASAP. So for those of you who had V2 swaps make sure it's correctly installed.
Just a heads up though, these last 2 weeks with my Z have been bittersweet. I wanted to drive it as much as possible, but a new problem started with the engine 2 weekends ago..
I parked at the grocery store, came back out and my car wouldnt start! Then after about 15 tries it finally started, with all the SES, Traction Control, and SLIP lights on. I had no idea what was wrong so i babied it home into my garage. Reset the ECU, and the lights went away. Didn't drive it again for a week (too busy enjoying my tsx). I tried driving it to work this past friday cuz it was a nice day and going up the 110 fwy ramp my car started shuttering and wouldnt accelerate! I couldnt get it over 40mph and my car was shaking violently making exploding sounds under the hood. I pulled off the next exit and my car just sputtered and died. Someone had to help me push it to the side of the road. It was embarassing man.. I called my friend to come bring a quart of oil because I thought thats what it needed. Before he was about to leave, I tried starting it again, and it finally started. Limped it back home, checked the oil level, although it was halfway down the dipstick it wasn't empty. I had no idea what was causing this until I took it into Technosquare yesterday to get the engine code read (died twice on the way there). Tadashi at Technosquare tried to rev my engine in neutral and the car died again. He looked behind the engine with a flashlight and moved his hand around there, he asked me if anyone worked on my car? And I said no, why? (completely forgetting that I had a V2 motor installed) He said that the wires in the back aren't even in their proper places, and the vaccum line is twisted. Then I totally remembered about the V2 and mentioned it to them. He said which dealer was this?? I told him WCN and he added they didn't do a very good job. He was able to solve what was wrong with my car though, due to an out of place wire or sensor that controlled the cams. I dont have the paper he gave me with what was wrong with the car, but i can get it later. He moved his hand around, and tried putting the sensor back into the correct place. Started it up and it was fine! Drove home with absolutely no problems. I called him later at home to let him know it was succesful, and asked if i could drive it normally now until tomorrow. He warned me not to drive the engine hard because the vacuum line looked like under high pressure it would come loose. I just want to get rid of this thing ASAP. So for those of you who had V2 swaps make sure it's correctly installed.
p.s. Are you going to sell the Nismo exhaust?
11-11-2008, 08:29 PM
#3633
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^That is a pisser, about the shoddy workmaship from WCN. I have read here of a few others that had similiar experiences with them. We will miss you, but we will not, if you get my meaning.
GL with your new ride!
Cheers
Curtis
GL with your new ride!
Cheers
Curtis
11-12-2008, 05:48 PM
#3634
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Back in July 15, 2008, I brought my 06 Grand Touring M/T to my local Nissan dealer to start the oil consumption test.
2,400 miles later the reading came in at 23mm!!! This was the first test. The dealer called NNA, and agreed to replace the longblock.
So now I am waiting on the long block to come in.
Delima that I am having now....
#1 - Trust that the service department will install the motor with no problems. Wouldn't want to come back every other day to get something fixed or tightened up
#2 - Trade in the car for a 08 Nismo #1216..could be 1261.
#3 - Trade in for a 09 Maxima
How may had the V2 installed and had problems?
2,400 miles later the reading came in at 23mm!!! This was the first test. The dealer called NNA, and agreed to replace the longblock.
So now I am waiting on the long block to come in.
Delima that I am having now....
#1 - Trust that the service department will install the motor with no problems. Wouldn't want to come back every other day to get something fixed or tightened up
#2 - Trade in the car for a 08 Nismo #1216..could be 1261.
#3 - Trade in for a 09 Maxima
How may had the V2 installed and had problems?
11-12-2008, 07:47 PM
#3635
Back in July 15, 2008, I brought my 06 Grand Touring M/T to my local Nissan dealer to start the oil consumption test.
2,400 miles later the reading came in at 23mm!!! This was the first test. The dealer called NNA, and agreed to replace the longblock.
So now I am waiting on the long block to come in.
Delima that I am having now....
#1 - Trust that the service department will install the motor with no problems. Wouldn't want to come back every other day to get something fixed or tightened up
#2 - Trade in the car for a 08 Nismo #1216..could be 1261.
#3 - Trade in for a 09 Maxima
How may had the V2 installed and had problems?
2,400 miles later the reading came in at 23mm!!! This was the first test. The dealer called NNA, and agreed to replace the longblock.
So now I am waiting on the long block to come in.
Delima that I am having now....
#1 - Trust that the service department will install the motor with no problems. Wouldn't want to come back every other day to get something fixed or tightened up
#2 - Trade in the car for a 08 Nismo #1216..could be 1261.
#3 - Trade in for a 09 Maxima
How may had the V2 installed and had problems?
11-12-2008, 09:24 PM
#3637
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Well I just wanted to update you guys. Tomorrow, I'm meeting with the Morley representative to surrender my car at the local Nissan dealership. It's been real fun guys, and I will miss my Z. Well I take that back, I will just miss a RWD sports car. I already bought my replacement car, it's a daily driver 06 Acura TSX 6MT w/ Nav. Found a great deal on one from craigslist for 21K!!!! Only 12K miles on it.
Im looking into getting a Genesis Coupe when they come out.
My gas mileage stayed the same.
11-13-2008, 04:02 AM
#3638
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March '09?
John
11-13-2008, 08:04 AM
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Early spring from what everyone is saying. So most likely late Feb or early March.
Same block as the evox and csrt4 but with beefier internals from what ive found.
Same block as the evox and csrt4 but with beefier internals from what ive found.
11-15-2008, 04:27 PM
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I just got my 05' 35th Anniversary back from the dealer (Nissan of the Eastside in Bellevue WA). This is my first engine swap, and hopefully the oil consumption will be less. I had a long conversation with the tech who did my swap, and he seemed to be pretty up-and-up with his install knowledge. This is his 9th Z motor swap.
So far everything seems to be good. And I swear, the engine seems to be a bit smoother at idle and low revs. I cant take it past 4k yet, but so far it just seems to be smoother. Placebo maybe?
And thankfully they didn't mangle anything in the engine bay. Nothing seems to be scratched or missing. They spilled a little bit of antifreeze, but that's it. The AC seems to be working fine too. No scratches on the body or wheels either.
The strange thing is, the tech told me that the engine came pre-filled with oil from the factory, so he didn't have to add any. I thought that the new engines were all coming from the factory dry? I checked the invoice, and its the latest engine code, so I wonder why mine allready had oil? Hmm...
And the break-in procedure begins! Ill post with my consumption results with the new motor.
So far everything seems to be good. And I swear, the engine seems to be a bit smoother at idle and low revs. I cant take it past 4k yet, but so far it just seems to be smoother. Placebo maybe?
And thankfully they didn't mangle anything in the engine bay. Nothing seems to be scratched or missing. They spilled a little bit of antifreeze, but that's it. The AC seems to be working fine too. No scratches on the body or wheels either.
The strange thing is, the tech told me that the engine came pre-filled with oil from the factory, so he didn't have to add any. I thought that the new engines were all coming from the factory dry? I checked the invoice, and its the latest engine code, so I wonder why mine allready had oil? Hmm...
And the break-in procedure begins! Ill post with my consumption results with the new motor.