Armitage

iTrader: (15)

Has anyone switched from Mobil1 5W-30 to 0W-40 and noticed less consumption, if they had the problem originally?

Were you able to find this easily or did you have to order it online?

mario23

iTrader: (10)

They had it at Autozone.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

If you want to use an M1 filter, then the 110 is fine to use. Honestly, I don't see a huge issue in using one filter to the next. I hate on Fram because their filters gave my old International wicked evil valve tap on start-up. Switching to another filter fixed the issue. So, I question their ADBV. Their cardboard endcaps don't make me feel all warm and fuzzy about high oil pressures seen in the VQ, either. Some Nissan OEM filters don't look any better, but I don't know if they are all like that. M1 and K&N are both great, and expensive. Purolator is solid, Napa Gold filters are high quality. I don't like PureOne because the filter element is restrictive- the bypass valve opens sooner on it than others as a result.

Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Will,

I am going to drain my Motul 5W40 and send it off for analysis. What is the best cheap oil to put in while I wait for analysis? I have a stock block "revup" with greddy TTs. I just don't want to order up $80 worth of Motul, before knowing if it is any good.

How about the Castrol GTX in some sort of 40Weight for a temporary oil?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

If I were you, I'd head to Wal-Mart and buy Rotella T-Synthetic 5W-40, it's sold in a gallon jug and one quart bottles. They're in blue bottles, not the white ones that conventional Rotella is sold in. It's very inexpensive for a great oil that has shown decent performance in Gurgen's TT engine. It is loaded with detergents as well, so it will be a great temporary oil for you that will clean your engine in the short interval you are planning on using it. To be honest, I would actually think it to be a good oil to use period, but I'll hold off final judgement until my own UOA with this stuff is done. I'm using it now in my stock block, and have another 900 miles to go before I change it out. Based on it's performance in Gurgen's engine, I suspect it will be a good oil to use for yours.
I'm looking forward to seeing the 300V 5W-40 UOA. The 300V weights are so expensive, I hope this one turns out to be worth the money since the 5W-30 looks so poor.
Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

I took your advice on the Rotella. Unfortunately, it was ony available in 1 gallon jugs, so I bought 2 gallons for about $32.00. I almost bought some Mobil1 15W50; they had a 5 quart jug for under $20!!! I have my 300V 5W40 in the Blackstone test vial, and I'll send it off for a UOA this week.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

I dropped off the specimen at UPS, and they said it should at Blackstone by thursday. I'll report backas soon as I have the analysis. I don't think we have any UOA reports from stock block TT guys yet in this thread.

on a side note, I stopped by NAPA today and picked up a case of #1356 Napa Gold Oil Filters. these are the bigger (longer) filters used on the VK engines, but they fit the VQs. They cut the price by 20% since I bought a case......now I am set for filters for the next 36,000 miles!!!!

athenG

iTrader: (2)

not sure if there is any test on M1 0w-40 but I just ordered a kit from Blackstone and I'll be sending mine. I have about 1300 miles already and I usually change around 2500miles. I have a ST on stock block (Revup).


Resolute,
are you saying that you prefer Rotella T-Synthetic 5W-40 over M1 0w-40 for turbo with stock block?

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

AthenG,

there is a UOA of Mobil 1 0W40 on one of the first pages of this thread.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

But I thought Gurgen has a built motor? I'm wondering if it does hold well with our stock motor with FI.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

true....I thought you were asking for a UOA of any type for Mobil1 0W40.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

What? Where did I say that? QuadCam asked for a good, cheap (read: inexpensive) oil to use until he gets his UOA back. Of all the inexpensive oils I would put in a TT VQ, that one is my top pic.

I can't say how it would do compared to M1 0W-40 in your engine, but I'm looking forward to your UOA. FI engines are hard to compare UOA's on, but Gurgen's engine is brutal on oils and the M1 0W-40 did fine- so I think it is the most durable oil tested so far for any configuration of FI engines. The Rotella T-Syn did almost as well for half the cost, but it will increase combustion chamber deposits and return less fuel economy. For an inexpensive oil I recommend it because I know it will outgun any conventional oil in a FI engine for about the same cost, but it doesn't look like it will do as well as some high quality (read: expensive) oils.

Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

how long does balckstone take to perform the UOA. I checked the UPS tracking numbers, and it will defiantely get there on thrusday. any chance, blackstone will email me some results by Friday?

BTW, I need to change the oil in my wife's Lincoln Aviator; it has an N/A Cobra Motor in it (300 HP 4.6 32V engine.) Ford recommends a 5W20 Synthetic blend. I don't like the idea of 20W oils. no real reason, but it seems to be so thin! Any recommendations on a nice oil for that application?

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

if they get it on Thursday you should have the email on friday.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I recommend searching through the UOA section at BITOG and see if you find some from that engine.

Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Blackstone got my sample this morning. I am not sure why I am so anxious to get this back... I have a feeling that there'll be large amounts of fuel in my oil sample. my A:F is usually in the low 11s.....soemtimes high 10s on a really hot day.

I am more curious to see what trace metals are in the oil. I am curious about bearing wear and cylinder wall wear, etc.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Here's my results. This is for Motul 300V 5W40 on a stock motored Greddy TT Infiniti G35 Sedan with 30,000+ miles. The car has been boosted for about 15,000 miles.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Ouch.
Your Fe and Pb were higher than I'd be comfortable with. Of course, comparing one FI engine to another is a hard thing to do. Different turbos, boost levels, cooling mods, etc.. all can make a difference. It's not the control a stock engine would have. That being said, you are running a stock block, and there have been better UOA results in stock blocks running FI with others oils. I have just not seen anything that justifies the price of Motul in my mind. 15ppm of lead is too much for me. The iron is really high, but there is a lot of places for the Fe to wear off of, so it's not scary high when you consider how much of it there is to go around. There is only one source of lead, and there isn't as much bearing material to wear away as there is iron in the engine. So, that 15ppm for the lead is a lot more detrimental than the 25ppm of iron in the oil. The copper is higher than I would prefer for a high quality synthetic. Chromium looks good, low piston ring wear. Al is also good. The lead makes me think twice about using this oil- I think you could do better. And probably for less money.

The 300V 5W40 has around 13ppm of silicon in it from the factory, so your filters are fine. The reading isn't high with this in mind.

The viscosity held like a champ. Absolutely no shearing, the Sus Vis is identical to brand new. Too bad it didn't protect any better. It's not damaging your engine or anything. i just think there are better options for the money. I'd be curious what the Rotella you have now would like like for the same oil change interval. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it did better.

Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

maybe, I'll leave the rotella in there for 3000 miles and have it analyzed........

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

It did better in Gurgen's built engine than the Motul did in yours, and with his fuel dilution, I think it's harder on oil than your engine. But, the M1 0W-40 gave slightly better wear numbers, but with two track days on it. That oil looked really good except for high Fe (a M1 trade-mark for some reason), but his Fe was still lower than your sample. Again, it's not fair to compare one FI to another in terms of UOA results, but I think it's a good bet what works well in his will do better in most other FI engines. Just a suggestion. FWIW, he's using M1 TDT 5W-40 and will have a UOA on it as well. I suspect that to be the best yet, but we'll see.

Will