Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

I just found a place with 20 cases of the German 0W-30 castrol. I bought to cases to run in my NA VQ35DE. If anyone else in San Diego area are interested in getting some let me know.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, my local Auto Zone has some GC in stock as well. For over a year it was all 0W-30 made in the usa oil, and now it's back to the GC. It's the newer GC gold oil, and not the older green oil that was so nice. But, GC gold is still good. The manager said he didn't know if the GC they are getting is just old stock, or if it will continue. Go figure. If you have some, it's a great oil, as evidenced by the UOA's.

Will

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

I opened one of these to check and it is the green one woo hoo

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

where are the best places to get GC. i went looking for it today beofre I changed my wifes oil. i couldn't find it, so I went with 5w30 syntec.

victor1

iTrader: (2)

i got this one too today for my Z. They had Castrol GTX, Castrol Syntec Blend and Castrol Syntec. I went with Castrol Syntec.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Auto Zone is the only place that carries it. I consider the older green oil to be a better blend than the newer gold colored oil. Both are good, though. The UOA of GC is an average result from three different VQ engines. I believe only one of them was the newer gold formula, so it's a good average with both blends considered.

Will

coachk

iTrader: (21)

My Z has TT and a 35 shot of nitrous, on a stock block. My Z is mostly used at the 1/4 mile and sometimes driven around town. Any recommendations on an oil for my use. I'm in Florida so cold weather is not an issue..

Thanks

IP05G35

Redline 10w-30 or Amsoil AMO 10w-40.

Biochem7

iTrader: (8)

I live in Texas and just put in my Vortech. I am using Castrol GTX 10w-40 and planning to change my oil every 2,000 miles. I will do some oil analysis with this oil.

fordslowcus

I'm an oil lab tech for the local naval air station here in central california. I'll run your sample for free as long as you pay shipping. My lab doesnt have physical properties testing only spectrometric atomic emmissions testing.(The one that tells you the ppm amount of Fe,Ag,Cu,Cr etc... ) With my analysis and this great post you can keep a close eye on whats going on in your engine. jrg5066@hotmail.com I'm so lucky to come accross this post. It seemed like such a hassle to call up Nissan and try to get the metallic composition of the Vq's internals.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Now that's my taxes dollars doing some good!!! that is a generous offer for all of us enthusiasts! Thanks!!!

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the offer! That's very generous of your time. For those members who are interested in wear analysis, this is a good deal. I like to see viscosity measures and TBN values to get a better picture of the oil sample, along with the physical properties to detect the presence of fuel, anti-freeze, etc... that could cause adverse readings and higher wear. I think a spectrometer reading of the metals alone is only half the picture. But, it is a good deal for the cost of shipping only for those who just want to see the amount of wear metals. If the readings come out high or abnormal, then they could just have Dyson or BL do a full test if they save a sample for themselves just in case.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

***UPDATED THE FIRST PAGE WITH ADDITIONAL FAQ'S AND NEW UOA SAMPLES. THREE COMPARISON CHARTS HAVE BEEN MADE WITH ALL THE VQ OIL SAMPLES DONE SO FAR IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER BY BRAND. ENJOY!***

Will

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=Armitage]Has anyone switched from Mobil1 5W-30 to 0W-40 and noticed less consumption, if they had the problem originally?QUOTE]

I was wondering the same thing. I have been using Mobil 1 5w30 since my first oil change at 3000 miles. I currently have 20,500 miles. I am currently losing about 2quarts in betwen 3000 mile oil change intervals.

I found this thread a few months back and plan on switching oil the next time I change it. After reading this thread a few times I've decided to try either Castrol GTX 5w-30 or Mobil 1 0w40. Since I change my oil every 3000 miles and don't track my car I am leaning towards the GTX.

Anyway, has anyone tracked the oil consumption amounts using different oil brands and weights?

I know the revup motors are known for oil consumption but not the 287hp motor. I am hoping changing oils helps to reduce my consumption problem.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Beeker]I don't have any consumption issues with my engine- at least not with any of the oils I've tried so far, so I don't have any data on which oil might hold out better in an engine that tends to burn off. When people submit a UOA, there is a place to record if any oil had to be added during the change interval, but not a lot of people fill that section out. The ones that have needed to add oil are noted in the comparison charts, if that's any help to you.

I think GTX might be the way to go for your needs interms of protection and wear. However, GTX 5W-30 is slightly on the "thin" side of a 30 weight oil with 10.6 cSt @100deg C. The M1 5W-30, as much as I think is a waste of money, is a thicker oil. Whether or not that will contribute to your oil consumption- I don't know. I would say it's worth a shot to try the GTX and keep an eye on it. If you do decide to pay M1 prices for your next oil, the 0W-40 is a much better bet than the 5W-30.

Will

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=Resolute]Thanks for the response.

I've been using Mobil 1 5w30 because I hadn't read this thread until recently. I've been using Mobil 1 in all my cars for years and have never had an engine related problem. Now that I know it isn't a good choice for the VQ I won't be using it in the Z anymore.

Since the GTX is actually thinner than the Mobil 1 5w30 it will probably burn off faster than the Mobil 1 5w30. Maybe burn off is caused by more than just the "thickness" of the oil but I have no idea.

I think I will try the GTX just to see what happens. It only cost about $10 for 5 quarts. If I notice it burning off faster than the Mobil 1 5w30 then I will drain it and try Mobil 1 0w40. If that also burns off then I'll have to go to Nissan to start the infamous "oil consumption test".

BTW, I ordered an oil analysis kit from Blackstone. Should I bother having the Mobil 1 5w30 that is currently in my motor analyzed? I have added about 2 quarts of oil since I last changed it and have about 2500 miles on it. I will be changing the oil and filter soon.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Like I posted on the first page about using oils not recommended in my list, any API oil will work for you without issue. If you follow a decent change interval and use an API approved oil, you shouldn't have an engine related problem that is caused by the oil. The problem that I have with most of M1's oil blends is that they are expensive for a product that doesn't perform any better than average in the VQ. The lone exception so far is their 0W-40 oil. So, of all the XOM oils I've seen, that's the one to get if you like to drop 6 bucks a qt on your oil change. Of course, if it doesn't help your consumption, then there is no benefit of doing so since you don't track the car or go for extended drain intervals.

A thinner oil does not withstand heat and shearing forces as well as a thicker one, but its susceptibility to burn-off is not always a function of its weight. It's usually the first guess, though. The amount of VII's used, base stocks, dispersants, cold start viscosity, etc... all can play a part in this issue. And that's assuming the engine is not so bad off that there isn't a good formula of oil to help with its consumption. If your engine isn't actually beyond hope due to some mechanical problem (like incorrect clearances), then a thicker oil is worth a shot, but may not be the determining factor of what works.

I would try the GTX and see what happens. If you notice it burning off way faster than the M1, then there is some knowledge to be gained from that. If it doesn't make a difference, or reduces consumption, then there is some knowledge to be gained from that as well. So, there is no harm either way in trying- just keep an eye on your oil level.

If I were you, I would not use BL and contact Terry Dyson with this problem. His link is on the first page under the heading, "What is a UOA and how do I get one done?" Have him look at your oil sample and be sure to let him know it has two quarts of freah oil added during the interval. I am not going to use it in the comparison chart because it won't be an accurate indicator of performance in terms of wear metals, however, the UOA will identify any fuel dilution, dirt, or anti-freeze in the oil. Any signs of these may indicate why you're loosing so much oil in-between changes. He's the guy to go to for a good reading of your UOA, and get some answers on what's going on. Hope this helps you out,

Will

Datapimp

Yeap, good old GC is back around here "central Florida" as well. The code at the bottom reads M07, so I'm guessing it's a new batch made this year. I had bought up all the M04 and earler "around here" about a year ago and hadn't seen any on the shelves since then. SWEEEET!!!

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

I changed the oil and filter this morning. I took a sample of my current oil using the kit Blackstone sent me. I think I am going to send it to them to have it analyzed. I feel obligated since they sent me the kit for free.

Also, Blackstone only charges $22.50 and Dyson charges $50.00.

I will post again after I drive a few hundred miles with the Castrol GTX 5w30.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yes, Dyson is more expensive, but his analysis goes well beyond what you get with BL. The two companies work together, and Dyson has a special offer to analyze your BL report and findings if you want. If you have a serious issue like excessive consumption, then Terry Dyson's analysis will be more helpful than the standard BL report. In this case, you do get what you pay for. I'm not actually trying to push you into Dyson's business, I just want to clarify that for the price, the results and analysis are no where near the same. If you decide to spend some more with Dyson, you do get more- that's all I want to make clear to other who might read this and wonder why they would choose Dyson over BL for the price difference.

Will