It's the engine oil brand name used by Nippon Oil Company. They sponsor the Honda F1 team, if that's what you mean. Nippon Oil recently opened a blending facility in Alabama, in an effort to combat Japanese corporate rival Idemitsu Oil's new blending facility here in the U.S. This should mean a more focused effort to increase product distribution around the country, but so far Nippon oil has kept its Eneos distribution pretty low key. They have stated their desire to remain a boutique brand, similar to Amsoil, and not pursue any shelf placement at auto parts stores like Pep Boys. AutoBacs in California is the sole exception I believe. Their loss, as far as I'm concerned. Unless their oil proves to be something really special, and I have not seen any evidence that it is, it will be tough to take sales away from the established boutique companies that already have a good customer base and reputation. For the same money, it's going to be tough to pick their product over Amsoil, Redline, Neo or any other high end boutique oil. There was an article about Nippon Oil's business plans in the U.S. and their new blending facility in one of last year's issues of Lubes n' Greases magazine.

Will

 

The air filter was an Amsoil EA that was about 11 months old at the time (due for the annual cleaning).

Thanks for putting this thread together.

 

Here you go Will. This is a Oil Analysis with the AMSOIL TSO 2000 0W30 in a VQ35HR.

 

well.... I guess we really cant say much without seeing more of the VQ35HR with other oils, but compared to the VQ35DE that oil report scares me.

Edit: taking a closer look, do you only have 4500 miles on the motor? So it most likely is break in metals....

 

tsabrale, it was really nice talking with you at Famous Daves's. I hope everything is going well in your life.

Thanks for posting the UOA. A couple of things here that strike me as interesting:
The first is that you are definately in your break-in still, and the silicon, iron, and copper are all what I would expect from an engine with such low mileage. The good news is that you have zero chromium wear, which is a strong indicator that your rings have sealed and broken in just fine. This goes to show that while switching to synthetic right off the bat might not be neccessary, it is certainly not detrimental to the engine as some would argue.
Your wear metals will stabilize within an oil change or two. I won't collect this report since it is still during break-in and the results aren't really indicative fo the oil's performance, but it doesn't look bad for a new engine at all. I'm glad you got a TBN test with this UOA. If you use the TSO again, there is no need to get another one, this TBN test already shows the oil to be good for an extended drain interval if you want. Very low oxidation and volatility combine to keep your acid build-up low in your engine with this oil, so with your TBN value so high this could be a great 9k mile oil if you dared stretch it that long.
Finally, your BL report looks like a new version, and I like it much better. If this is the new format BL is using for their UOA results, then it's a good one. The have reported both your Saybolt and Kinematic viscosity, which will make cross referencing oil performance to stock conditions much easier.

Thanks again for posting. Hopefully we'll meet up again for a meet or drive this winter,

Will

 

Definitely great meeting with you at the time. And yeah, from initial looks it was very obvious still in the break in. But I didn't know about the low chromium. Good to know! I did go with the TSO again, and will go ahead and stick with it for now until my engine stabilizes. I don't think I would attempt an extended interval yet. As I like to drive aggressive all the time. Plus I defintiely plan on tracking the car. Once again, thanks for the reply will.

-Joe

 

That's exactly what it is. I went ahead and changed to syn right away. There are so many different views, but I decided to go with the synthetic view. You can change to Syn anytime. And it looks like with the 0 Chromium, my engine is breaking in fine.

 

Valvoline high mileage 10w-30 is on its way to Blackstone. Eneos 10w-40 is in the engine now.

 

what is the best or a godd manual transmission oil?

 

Sorry, but that's OT- this thread is for engine oils. There is no UOA collection of other lubricants, so you can do a search and read everyone's opinions of what's best.

Will

 

tried that and evey one seem to have different opinion, so far i think everyone is going for redline mtl and mt90 where they mix 2 quarts each to get the desired grade,

 

Will,

here is the Valvoline High mileage 10w30 in an NA VQ35DE

 

Let me first say that, for whatever reason, this picture shows up very small on my computer, and I can't zoom in on it, so I might be reading some of the numbers wrong.

As far as protection goes, wear metals look good. Not one opf the best oils we have seen, but good. Lead and Copper are the only metals a tad higher than what the best oils have shown for similar mileage.

Lots of additives in this oil. Tons of Moly, Calcium, and ZDDP. Even a bit of Boron. These are all anti-wear and friction reducing additives. Seems High Mileage uses everything in existance for AW/FR additives. If BL tested for antimony, I'd bet there is some of that in there as well.

Only thing I don't like about this oil is the shearing. It's now a VERY thin 30wt oil, almost a 20 weight oil. It shears similar to the RP 5W-30 in our engines. I'm glad you got a TBN test, because sure enough, it's the VII's that shear and cause acid buil-up. The low TBN reflects this. For only 3600 miles, I would say this is the first oil that has been "maxed out" and wouldn't use it beyond a 3600 mile interval. There's not much left to prevent any sludge and varnish from developing.

Thanks for posting this, I'll add it to the comparison charts.

Will

 

no problem. I should have results on the Eneos in about a month and a half. (we drive alot)

Im already not liking it though. engine seems a bit louder with it.

 

Didn't you use some of it before and not like it, so you drained it and went with something else? Why are you giving it another shot? If it's simply for posterity sake, then great, but if it hasn't done well by you before then why try it again?

Will

 

I tried it in the twin turbo, but it was too thin. Now I am trying it in an NA VQ

 

****FIRST PAGE INFORMATION AND UOA COMPARISON CHARTS ARE UPDATED****

Will

 

I don't recall if there has been an discussion or results from Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Oil (5W40). I came across it at my local Advance Auto Parts today. They keep their turbo diesel oils in a different section than where the other oil are.

I'd like to see a UOA for this stuff.

 

I would like to see a result on this as well. Gurgen was running this in his engine, but there's no one using it in a NA engine that I know of. I still have Rotella T-Syn in mine right now, and should have it changed whenever I get around to finishing some work in my garage to make space for the car. The T-Syn is a HDMO just like the M1 TDT, and both are 5W-40, so I figured I'd see how a heavy duty oil fared in the Z. If the Rotella results are good, then M1 TDT might really be worth a shot. It's a different base oil from the T-Syn, but iirc, the add pack is similar with a lot of ZDDP. It's a very good looking oil on paper, maybe someone wants to try the M1 TDT 5W-40 in their NA enine and post a UOA? My car's about to get garaged for a long time, so no new UOA's from me for a while after I drain the T-Syn. My next oil to try wil be Valvoline 5W-40 I think. It's also a heavyily spec'd oil that looks really good on paper, so if someone wants to try that and get a UOA done, that would be nice.

Will

 

As you know, I, too, am running the Rotella T-Syn in my stock block Twin Turbos G. I think I have about 1700 miles on the current oil. I'll take it to, at least, 3000 before sending it off for a UOA. Can't wait to see how it compares to the Motul 300V 5W40 I was previously running. I hope to have low levels of Iron, Aluminum, and Lead in my next sample.