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Update: My Build, Ultimate Goals & 1 CRAZY Day in Utah

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Old 07-09-2007, 12:44 PM
  #81  
BamBam
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I am NOT ditching the Trunk setup for a fuel cell.
I think the Boost A Pump is the best option. Especialy considering I REALLY don't want to have to tear up fuel system yet again. and the Cage makes getting to that stuff VERY difficult.

One thing I have noted while driving home and around town, all the electronics is draining my battery. If I have everything on and run the stereo the voltage drops from 13.5 to as low as 11.3.. Either I need a new battery, or add a second one because everything is sucking the life out of the current Yellow Top.
--B
Old 07-09-2007, 12:57 PM
  #82  
roncfpz
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Originally Posted by BamBam
One thing I have noted while driving home and around town, all the electronics is draining my battery. If I have everything on and run the stereo the voltage drops from 13.5 to as low as 11.3.. Either I need a new battery, or add a second one because everything is sucking the life out of the current Yellow Top.
--B
Hmmmmm, I've had the same issue. It could just be that you need to recharge or "recondition" your yellow top. I bought a CTek 7000 battery charger/maintainer, recharged the battery and it seems to work fine now. Someone also mentioned a high output alternator but I can't find much info on those for a 350Z.

Good luck B!
Old 07-09-2007, 01:46 PM
  #83  
rcdash
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Your alternator should be providing current while the car is on (and charging the battery). I think Ron is right about looking for a higher output alternator. (If the voltage drops are transient, a large capacitor may help if you don't have it already.)

So you got a music track picked out for the run?
Old 07-09-2007, 02:00 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by BamBam
I am NOT ditching the Trunk setup for a fuel cell.
I think the Boost A Pump is the best option. Especialy considering I REALLY don't want to have to tear up fuel system yet again. and the Cage makes getting to that stuff VERY difficult.

One thing I have noted while driving home and around town, all the electronics is draining my battery. If I have everything on and run the stereo the voltage drops from 13.5 to as low as 11.3.. Either I need a new battery, or add a second one because everything is sucking the life out of the current Yellow Top.
--B
Brent - the yellow tops, in a word, absolutely blow. Ditch it, go back to a stock battery. If you want to be 100% safe, run the stock battery to the stereo, and a lightweight race type battery (or just another stocker) for the car itself.

Remember, the battery only starts the car, the alternator runs it.

Personally, I think that boost a pump thing is about as lame as it gets...very similar to the "solution" ATI gave with their supercharger...remember those horror stories? For many, it became the "final solution", literally. But, I can understand and appreciate your reluctance to want to tear up the fuel system yet again.

Alternator wise, SGP offers one. We got one for Kwame's car since he basically is running NASA now in his car
Old 07-10-2007, 11:58 AM
  #85  
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Aside the from the fuel problem, I would be very cautious here in regards to aero.

The kit you have is a street/show kit. Not engineer or researched to 200mph. I am willing to bet you will rip the front bumper right off the car at extended runs at that speed.

Also, this car is convertable with a very obtrusive angle on the windshield. It will most likely cause stress on the glass to point of cracking. I've seen it happen on a Lexus SC430 at extended runs at speeds of only 150mph. Although I don't know how the thickness of the glass between those two cars compare.

Considering the time constraint, its probably not an option, but I would definately put a lot more research into this goal.

The Option Z was going for same goal on asphault. But this car had a wind tunnel engineered long-nose aero kit and fully integrated cage with racing bucket. Lightened and reinforced. Purpose built. It crashed and the driver walked away but only because of the preparation and research put into the car.

I wish you luck and hope you make it back.
Old 07-10-2007, 12:02 PM
  #86  
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^^^Nice post......
Old 07-10-2007, 12:16 PM
  #87  
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i'd take whatever aftermarket rear bumper or even the oem rear bumper off or trim it at least to accomodate rear drag from having a non-oem exhaust on there. and definately elongate the nose to further reduce overall drag. (install v2 long nose or any long nose for that matter), minus the canards. and definately definatley fab up a flat sheet of 1/4" honeycombed aluminum to make yourundertray to smooth the air flow underneath the car.
your GT wing (i didnt see any picts) i'd place further back on the trunk and go for a low drag configuration (i.e. lowest angle of attack).

definately good luck. should be pretty fun!
Old 07-10-2007, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Brent - the yellow tops, in a word, absolutely blow. Ditch it, go back to a stock battery. If you want to be 100% safe, run the stock battery to the stereo, and a lightweight race type battery (or just another stocker) for the car itself.

Remember, the battery only starts the car, the alternator runs it.

Personally, I think that boost a pump thing is about as lame as it gets...very similar to the "solution" ATI gave with their supercharger...remember those horror stories? For many, it became the "final solution", literally. But, I can understand and appreciate your reluctance to want to tear up the fuel system yet again.

Alternator wise, SGP offers one. We got one for Kwame's car since he basically is running NASA now in his car
I'm glad someone else finally posted something about the Yellowtops. I keep hearing nothing but great things but from personal experience in off road trucks with a lot of current draw the Yellowtops don't last for crap. I'm about due for a good deep cycle battery in my Z and Titan and was wondering if you had any suggestions. I don't have the current draw Brent has so I still would think he needs to look at an upgraded alternator but for both Brent and my sake are there any aftermarket batteries you recommend? I don't want to use stock again as the one in my Titan will see tons of off road abuse and its posts cracked twice already causing leaking/corrosion.
Old 07-10-2007, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Alternator wise, SGP offers one. We got one for Kwame's car since he basically is running NASA now in his car
Well we might be doing that. Going to check it first thing I do when I get to SLC. Do you have any suggestions for another battery type. I am running a lot of stuff, but for the short term it has to hold up to the abuse of the Salt Flats and return home.

As for the alternator. I checked SGP's site and did not find anything. Do you have a specific part #, or brand name? I would have to have it shipped to the hotel in Wendover, NV
--B
Old 07-11-2007, 06:37 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by BamBam
Well we might be doing that. Going to check it first thing I do when I get to SLC. Do you have any suggestions for another battery type. I am running a lot of stuff, but for the short term it has to hold up to the abuse of the Salt Flats and return home.

As for the alternator. I checked SGP's site and did not find anything. Do you have a specific part #, or brand name? I would have to have it shipped to the hotel in Wendover, NV
--B
Brent, call Mark @ SGP and he can give you the info. I don't believe it is anything they have much inventory. Good luck bro!
Old 07-11-2007, 07:29 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
I'm glad someone else finally posted something about the Yellowtops. I keep hearing nothing but great things but from personal experience in off road trucks with a lot of current draw the Yellowtops don't last for crap. I'm about due for a good deep cycle battery in my Z and Titan and was wondering if you had any suggestions. I don't have the current draw Brent has so I still would think he needs to look at an upgraded alternator but for both Brent and my sake are there any aftermarket batteries you recommend? I don't want to use stock again as the one in my Titan will see tons of off road abuse and its posts cracked twice already causing leaking/corrosion.
Unfortunately, I don't have one that I think is worth using anymore lolol....I just use stock from now on
Old 07-11-2007, 07:31 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by BamBam
Well we might be doing that. Going to check it first thing I do when I get to SLC. Do you have any suggestions for another battery type. I am running a lot of stuff, but for the short term it has to hold up to the abuse of the Salt Flats and return home.

As for the alternator. I checked SGP's site and did not find anything. Do you have a specific part #, or brand name? I would have to have it shipped to the hotel in Wendover, NV
--B
Brent - I'd use a stock battery for the system (or 2 stock ones), and a Braille for the car itself (get the tender thing they offer too, which keeps it from going dead between uses)

As for the alternator, best bet is to call them....it took a long time to get it, but it's the only one I know of that is offered (or, you can have yours rewound to higher specs, though as I recall that is alot more $$)
Old 07-16-2007, 11:20 AM
  #93  
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Quite an ambitious project...

I wish you the best!
Old 07-16-2007, 05:17 PM
  #94  
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Brent are you concerned about the ragtop bubbling up at those speeds? I see this happen to other 'verts at normal highway speeds.
Old 01-30-2009, 10:58 PM
  #95  
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Man I feel dumb for this. But I'm really curious does anyone have any updated info on this? Sounds interesting.

P.S. If you guys want to shoot me for bringing back the dead you're more than welcome to.
Old 01-31-2009, 03:25 AM
  #96  
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u sir have NO WIN
Old 01-31-2009, 06:08 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by NoWin
Man I feel dumb for this. But I'm really curious does anyone have any updated info on this? Sounds interesting.

P.S. If you guys want to shoot me for bringing back the dead you're more than welcome to.
Old 01-31-2009, 04:55 PM
  #98  
BamBam
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Not sure what your question is around.
I did run on the Bonneville Salt flats... Unfortunately I was only able to get a consistent 187 mph (recorded by radar). I certainly think the car could have gotten very close, if not exceeded the 200 mph mark, if we had thought out ahead of time some of the below variables.

We forgot to change the angle of the spoiler so it was still set for maximum drag/ downforce. We also did not start running until around 10 AM, while the official Speedweek runs start @ sunrise to keep the temps at a minimum. Unfortunately this meant it was at least 115 degrees on the flats as it was the middle of the summer. This caused a lot of heat sink and ultimately lead to me compromising my headgasket later that week on the return from the AKA Rally.
Lastly, we designed the runs incorrectly, and ran at speed down the 4 mile track and back with no cool down period... we should have only run 1 direction and then just idled back to the start point. Anyway, I definitely proved the car was able to handle the high speeds, the engine was very solid, and the aftermarket bodywork did not blow off at these speeds either.

If you are curious about the run, I know there was a thread posted by Sharif of Forged Performance at the time as he was there keeping an eye on the car during the runs. There is even video posted somewhere of some of the runs and the verified radar readings.

Definitely ONE HELL OF AN EXPERIENCE without a doubt.
--B

Originally Posted by NoWin
Man I feel dumb for this. But I'm really curious does anyone have any updated info on this? Sounds interesting.

P.S. If you guys want to shoot me for bringing back the dead you're more than welcome to.
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