what are the craford go fast goodies?

I have CC in hand any manifolds?

 

What are the A/F manager and CAN--their functions, etc.?

 

Ask Vandy or Chestbo,

I'm out of here for a week at least.

Taking a break

Peace to my friends, you have my cell.

 

For this install, what do you torque the other 2 pulleys to? Did you use a belt tension guage or did you eyeball it tight to 1/2 inch of deflection? I have a service manual, but can't find these specs anywhere. Help.

 

I was researching a piggyback through a euro-tuner.....very little works with CAN language.....the piggyback's manufacturer described it as similar to WWII crypto-code.......this ECM is pretty complex, heard they're still trying to get something that will work on the latest generation of MR2....... i hope thats not our fate as well

 

The crank pulley is the "drive" pulley, so making it smaller means that the speed of the belt is reduced for every revolution thus slowing the "non-drive' pulleys. The reason is a smaller pulley has a smaller circumference, which equates to distance/length. For every revolution, the belts "travel" a certain length, which is less on a smaller pulley because of the smaller circumference. Thus, the "non-drive" pulleys will have fewer revolutions.

Now if you reduce the size of the "non-drive" pulleys, then they will rotate faster. The down-side is that those pulleys are connected to other inertial forces/mass (ie. alternator, AC, water, etc.), and reducing pulley size will increase parasitic power loss.

So factors for the pulleys are size, mass, and drive vs non-drive.

 

whoops, you're right!....the comparison i had in mind was a bicycle sprocket where the higher gears are smaller........i screwed up......after looking at some general ratios on paper, the non-drive pulleys will be turning slower.

 

mass and size=**weight** the most important aspect at the crank is what I hope you meant right? UR is 5 lbs lighter than stock (crank puulley.)

Reducing the weight at the crank does more than the size but both pay an integral roll together to meet the desired goal?

Just wanted to clarify to others the total picture in more laymens terms?

132mph last night FOR AN EXTENDED TIME no aero dynamic problems or shuttering or whatever else was a concern FYI.

 

did we ever determine where or not the stock crank pulley has a damping rubber ring between the inner and outer pulleys ( in other words... is it a harmonic balancer?)

 

Everything I have posted says it's internally balanced and the pics do not show a harmonic balancer just a pulley, more importantly I used them several days at very high speeds.

That's my evidence, still awaiting the other guy that was to post back some further info.

UR can't make em fast enough so what does that say?

Email Nissan or UR rather than a board member on the Internet if my first hand expeireice isn't good enough you will get a better answer from them. I haven't had any problems on my motor runs at high speeds, still trying to dial in my N20 runs for 12's and I think the A/F could be the culprit either that or my jet numbers are wrong, that's why I need a Dyno with A/F.

Motor runs zero problems and I am a commuter in a daily driver Z33.

 

You wouldn't do noticable damage to an engine with just a couple of weeks worth of this type of vibration. It is more of a 70,000+ mile issue of shortened life if it is vibrating end to end on the crank. Just like shocks won't wear out immediately on shorter springs. The verdict will be 20,000 miles down the road or so.

Internally balanced is one thing compared to the harmonics that can go end to end on the crank.

I'd say it is relatively safe, I'm just not 100% sure we know what the long term effects are yet.

Also, of course UR will say it is unnecessary, they are selling a part that doesn't have one

 

yeah... internally balanced is one thing... internally damped is another.

An internally balanced engine still needs to be damped. rotational balance and harmonic balance are two separate things.

I'm inclinded to think that the stock pulley is just that... a pulley. That's why I'm going to try the UR pulley.

Mannish is right.... the exclusion of a harmonic balancer manifests it's effects only after thousands of miles. Instead of an engine lasting 175,000 maybe it would only last 80,000.

I'm very curious to see my pulley when I yank it out this week....

MaxHax, I went and bought an impact wrench yesterday, so the install on my auto trans should go smoothly.... (I hope)