Sick Of Overheating!
01-18-2008, 10:03 AM
#63
i babied a leaking head gasket (due to high cylinder pressures) for about 10 months. it would only leak fluid if temps got high and expanded the water alot, or a quick jump to 15 psi would relieve me of roughly 1.5 gallons in about 2 seconds, lol.
my point is, i have blead this system hundreds of times and the best way to do it is to drill 1-2 1/8th" holes in the thermostat, top and bottom. this will allow the passing of air and water and allow water to get on each side of the thermostat to make it able to open so the rest of the bleeding process is WAY easier. in this scenario, you can knock out all of your bleeding to one or two times. you are done when the heater will blow hot at an idle. if it doesn't blow hot at idle, you are not done!! air is still in there. i have also taken the hose apart right at the bleeder (at pass. side rear) and used a hose to force water in the backside of the system to fill the heater core first.
my point is, i have blead this system hundreds of times and the best way to do it is to drill 1-2 1/8th" holes in the thermostat, top and bottom. this will allow the passing of air and water and allow water to get on each side of the thermostat to make it able to open so the rest of the bleeding process is WAY easier. in this scenario, you can knock out all of your bleeding to one or two times. you are done when the heater will blow hot at an idle. if it doesn't blow hot at idle, you are not done!! air is still in there. i have also taken the hose apart right at the bleeder (at pass. side rear) and used a hose to force water in the backside of the system to fill the heater core first.
01-20-2008, 01:39 PM
#64
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Normally one uses a Hydrocarbon gas tester to check the vapors above the rad coolant level for signs of combustion [headgasket] leaks into coolant.
"You can use a "Block Tester" to chemically determine whether there is exhaust gas in your coolant. These "Block Testers" are sold by NAPA stores for approximately $45.00. The quote I got from my local NAPA dealer was $45.99. He didn't have it in stock, but said he could have it the next day. The relevant NAPA catalog is called "The PSA 2000 catalog" or the "Balkamp Catalog". The catalog calls the Block Tester a "combustion leak tester kit", so that's probably what you should ask for. From what I understand, it comes with a ball, tubes, test fluid, aspirator bulb and engine adapter (cone shaped device you place in your radiator filler cap). If there's exhaust in your coolant the test fluid changes color. "
http://www.troubleshooters.com/tlitthypothesis.htm
"You can use a "Block Tester" to chemically determine whether there is exhaust gas in your coolant. These "Block Testers" are sold by NAPA stores for approximately $45.00. The quote I got from my local NAPA dealer was $45.99. He didn't have it in stock, but said he could have it the next day. The relevant NAPA catalog is called "The PSA 2000 catalog" or the "Balkamp Catalog". The catalog calls the Block Tester a "combustion leak tester kit", so that's probably what you should ask for. From what I understand, it comes with a ball, tubes, test fluid, aspirator bulb and engine adapter (cone shaped device you place in your radiator filler cap). If there's exhaust in your coolant the test fluid changes color. "
http://www.troubleshooters.com/tlitthypothesis.htm
02-15-2008, 07:31 PM
#65
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
coolant mix wont matter
watter wetter is GARBAGE
a high pressure cap won't help
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but either you've got some serious blockage in your system (flush it out completely) or, a serious headgasket issue, or you've still got an air pocket. Lots of twists and turns in the path the coolant flows and even a small bubble will wreak havoc. I know, I had the exact same issue when we put my new motor together and it took literally 5 days of burping the system multiple times per day to fix it
If your rad hoses are getting firm, you either have an air pocket, or a headgasket problem. Another hint - if your upper rad hose is hot, and your lower is cold, you've got air pockets - exactly the scenario that happened to mine
The water pump really can't go bad...its driven by the timing chain. Either its spinning (which it is if the car starts) or its not (which means your motor is seized). If no coolant is being lost (ie leaking out of the front cover in the motor), your water pump is fine
watter wetter is GARBAGE
a high pressure cap won't help
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but either you've got some serious blockage in your system (flush it out completely) or, a serious headgasket issue, or you've still got an air pocket. Lots of twists and turns in the path the coolant flows and even a small bubble will wreak havoc. I know, I had the exact same issue when we put my new motor together and it took literally 5 days of burping the system multiple times per day to fix it
If your rad hoses are getting firm, you either have an air pocket, or a headgasket problem. Another hint - if your upper rad hose is hot, and your lower is cold, you've got air pockets - exactly the scenario that happened to mine
The water pump really can't go bad...its driven by the timing chain. Either its spinning (which it is if the car starts) or its not (which means your motor is seized). If no coolant is being lost (ie leaking out of the front cover in the motor), your water pump is fine
Wondering what method you used to get all the air out? I'm having the same problem after replacing my radiator.
02-16-2008, 01:35 AM
#66
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I just flushed my radiator with Valvoline Super Flush then water (3 times), and refilled it with water-wetter+coolant+distilled water. After a brief drive it was getting mighty hot. I just ensured the overflow tank was full then took off the raditor cap and contined to add water (squeezing the upper hose repeatedly), until the bubbles came up. Repeated once more and it is cleared up now. If there is even a little air in the system it was overheat very quickly, so just keep squeezing those hoses! Good Luck.
11-15-2008, 03:21 PM
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so what was the problem, blown head gasket or air bubbles? i am having the same issues. I bled it over 10 times!!! I am going to park it on an incline (rear of car raised) and take off my radiator cap overnight to see if it will take out the air pockets. My car does not smoke, nor do i have milky mix in my oil. SO i am hoping my headgasket is ok. Let me know how yours ended up. I just put in a new new (used) motor
Thanks
Thanks
11-15-2008, 03:40 PM
#68
so what was the problem, blown head gasket or air bubbles? i am having the same issues. I bled it over 10 times!!! I am going to park it on an incline (rear of car raised) and take off my radiator cap overnight to see if it will take out the air pockets. My car does not smoke, nor do i have milky mix in my oil. SO i am hoping my headgasket is ok. Let me know how yours ended up. I just put in a new new (used) motor
Thanks
Thanks
11-17-2008, 07:41 AM
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Wetter water actually increases coolant temperature a few degrees, IF it is removing extra heat from cylinder heads as designed.
What one wants to know is cylinder head temp not just coolant temp.
What one wants to know is cylinder head temp not just coolant temp.
11-19-2008, 06:01 PM
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Ok i went to oreilly auto parts and bought the best bleeding kit with the radiator adapter. Bled it again and again...
top hose hot, bottom hose cold, ,somehow it is not circulating..
STill overheated. I am positive it is not a head gasket (no smoking, no moisture comng out of exhaust, no oil with water mix, car runs great) I am convinced it is the new thermostat i just put in, or the water pump...
I am going to cut off my thermostat (eliminate it )and bleed it again and hope it works... if not i am guessing it is the water pump....
I will keep you guys posted any other ideas?
Thanks
top hose hot, bottom hose cold, ,somehow it is not circulating..
STill overheated. I am positive it is not a head gasket (no smoking, no moisture comng out of exhaust, no oil with water mix, car runs great) I am convinced it is the new thermostat i just put in, or the water pump...
I am going to cut off my thermostat (eliminate it )and bleed it again and hope it works... if not i am guessing it is the water pump....
I will keep you guys posted any other ideas?
Thanks
11-21-2008, 09:30 AM
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Ha, where have I seen this thread before, every car sight I've ever been too. Number one problem, coolant cap. If your radiator cap is leaking or allows the overflow at a lesser pressure than design, you will overheat. Removing the thermostat does do much good either and can be very misleading.
Coolant temp is all about pressure and temperature, what most people miss is the pressure. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric conditions. Raise the pressure and the boiling point rises, so add 13lbs to to pressure and the water boils at 244. Before the water ever reaches boiling, it will form small air bubbles/pockets, these air bubbles will reduce the contact area of the coolant and impead coolant flow, thta is why we use these higher pressures, to keep the bubbles from forming.
Have the cap pressure tested, I've seen too many "new caps" releasing lbs lower than they should.
Coolant temp is all about pressure and temperature, what most people miss is the pressure. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric conditions. Raise the pressure and the boiling point rises, so add 13lbs to to pressure and the water boils at 244. Before the water ever reaches boiling, it will form small air bubbles/pockets, these air bubbles will reduce the contact area of the coolant and impead coolant flow, thta is why we use these higher pressures, to keep the bubbles from forming.
Have the cap pressure tested, I've seen too many "new caps" releasing lbs lower than they should.
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