Im trying to Decide on what camshafts to put into my VQ35DE motor. Has every single bolt on available on the car. Also putting in a E-Manage Ultimate. The car is NA, will be getting ARP rod bolts and a REV-Up Z oil pump as well.

Ive been told Stage III would be Overkill.

Im torn between
- Brian Crower Stage II which are 264 dur.. and 410 Lift
-JWT S1's 260 Dur..and 428 Lift.

Now what do you look for in a cam more DUR or LIFT for a NA setup ?

What cams do you guys have in your car ? and how much extra whp did you get ..and howd it feel ?

Thanks.

BTW i have a 03 Maxima 6spd. Same motor so umm... we good LOL

 

Maybe same block, not same motor (265 hp, 255 torque). Tried posting on a Maxima forum?

 

The internals are the same between a non-revup and Maxima.

 

i got the 264 bc cams...more of a turbo cam...go with the jim wolf s1 cams....great na cam...

 

Didnt this just get locked?

 

Did you modify the intake manifold?

TK

 

Yea i posted on the maxima forum, im also looking to get some input here since Z owners are more into engine Modifications.

My Intake manifold has the spacers and has been port and polished.

So far the S1?

But why are the BC 264 for boost ?

and do you look for higher DUR or Lift in a NA car ?

Thanks
-Qazi

 

Tomei 280 degree intake cams! gogogo!

on a serious note though, when is BC gonna release those Revup cams? not gonna have the money for a while, gonna do headers back, cosworth intake manifold (if its as good as they say) and all that jazz over the next year or so. But after that I wana start tinkering with the valvetrain.

 

a hardcore NA cam will be "bigger" than a turbo cam. You'll also end up with more "overlap" on a performance NA cam than on a turbo cam.

when it comes to lift, you want to run as much as possible (for the flow characteristics of your heads.) more lift won't affect drivability at all. Duration is causes the loping at idle and also extends your usable rpm bands.

Your best bet is to buy some books on american V8s. You'll find much better tech info in those than you will on most import forums.

 

The best answer this far THANKS !!
So as far as i understand.. Duration causes the lopping but will keep the whp curve steady all the way to redline and up there ?? and Duration will add more whp ?

 

The best answer is: it depends on how you want your car to perform.

Do you want good low end power and torque, or high rpm power?

A lot of the benefits of cams come from not just the cams but adjustable cam gear which allow to to change timing, overlap and intake and exhaust cam centerline, all of which have various effects on performance.

More overlap is better for low end power. Overlap is have the exhaust valve stay open for a longer duration while the intake valve is opening. This occurs at the end of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake stroke. This allows more scavenging. Scavenging is using the velocity of the exiting exhaust gases to "pull" more air in through the intake valve giving a denser air charge.

Less duration is better for higher rpm where scavenging isn't needed as the velocity of the air entering and exiting the engine makes it unnecessary.

As far as lift is concerned, that all depends on your head. Was it put on a flowbench? Do you have any cfm numbers? Buying a cam with more lift that your head can flow is useless. You also have to be aware what your valve train can handle. Excessive lift can cause spring coil bing, retainer to seal contact, valve to piston contact and valve train instability at high RPMs.

Duration. More duration is generally used to make more power at higher RPM, while less will make more power at low RPM. Are the durations yuou listed advertised duration or actual duration? Industry standard for actual duration is duration@.050". This is the one that matters. Advertised duration can be measured from different places from monufacturer to manufacturer. ie. Crower may measure it a .020" lift, while Comp Cams may measure it at .009" lift giving very different numbers.

As you increase duration, overlap also increases, unless you can dial it out with adjustable cam gears, and even then you can only do so much.

Lobe separation is also a consideration if you have adjustable cam gears. This is the angle between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline, measured in cam degrees. A wide LSA raises peak horsepower and torque to a higher RPM range. A narrow LSA lowers peak HP and TQ to a lower RPM range. This is also very much related to overlap. As you increase LSA, you decrease overlap, and vice versa.

Another thing to consider with LSA, and duration is piston to valve clearance. A narrow LSA and/or a long duration cam will loose piston to valve clearance, while a wide LSA and/or smaller duration cam will gain piston to valve clearance.

So you see, there is a lot to consider other that, "What is a good NA cam?" Do some research. I have started you out with a good basic understanding of what to search for and read about. A cam can make or break an engine, and is not something you want to buy on a whim.

Hope this helped.

 

More duration is usually equal to more overlap, if you run some odd cam angles you can lessen the overlap, but generally more duration equates to more overlap.

You said you have an intake manifold spacer, is that a similar mod to hacking up the stock plenum? I used to drive a 5th gen maxima, and from what i remember, on the 2002-2003s, there was a definite hp increase to be had from hacking up the stock upper intake manifold (the part that houses the butterfly valve for the variable intake runner system)*

*I'm aware it's not a TRUE variable runner system, but has a similar effect.

There were a few guys removing the butterfly assembly and putting a plate over it, and using a dremel to hack away the "step" inside the upper IM, essentially converting the entire system to a larger volumed single stage manifold. It's a pretty niche mod, but it does work. People have compared doing this "at home" version rather than getting a completely aftermarket one. IIRC, SR20DEN was the first to do this on the .org, on his 2002 Maxima. This mod was also done by a handful of V6 Altima guys. SR20DEN ran with the stock long block with the "massaged" intake manifold, and various other basic bolt ons, and was trapping in the 107-108mph range.

TK

EDIT: heres a link of the mod. http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...d-results.html

and another thread. http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...-question.html

 

CRG914- Thanks man, your answer was EXACLTY what i was looking for !! Thank You !!



TK - yea i have that mod. Its referred to as the SSIM. i have the upper manifold complelty gutted and polised... along with the lower manifold which is also port&polished.. the spacers i have are likt the plenum spacer which are made for your 350z's which give you guys a nice gain, it also gives us a nice 10-12 hp plus the P&P work im looking at an increased about 20hp... nice flowwwwwwww..

 

anybody have a clue on when BC is releasing revup cams? this thread has been pretty educational....good info lol.

 

The only thing about cams, is that they work in conjunction with all your other mods. Heads have to be able to keep up with the cams, intake manifold and exhaust manifolds(headers) need to keep up, and so on.

TK

 

read some great info now i know what to do with my car.

 

The way I see it, these heads don't flow substantially more after about .400" lift, so you would gain more by prolonging the duration to take advantage of keeping the valve open longer to allow more flow.