Please review my mod list :)
#1
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Please review my mod list :)
I have read and read and read and searched and searched and searched, etc. to gain as MUCH knowledge as I possibly can about these cars, and would just like you fellas to "check my work." I'm used to building high-horsepower nitrous LSx V8's putting over 500rwhp to the ground, and this will be my first time modifying a small displacement N/A car. I'm going N/A for reliability as well as to keep the car balanced between power, braking, handling, weight, etc. (I know this isn't going to be a power monster) That being said, is there anything I need to ADD or possibly do differently than below (what I've already ordered, but not installed yet):
Goal is: as close to 300rwhp as I can possibly get - would be happy with 285 to 290. Just making the car fun to drive: this is an '07 G35 Coupe - rev-up - 6MT.
- K&N filter for factory airbox
- Z-tube
- Motordyne 1/2" Iso-thermal spacers
- MREV-2
- plenum coolant bypass mod
- UR lightened underdrive pulley
- Stillen engine dampener
- Topspeed headers - heat wrapped ("trying" to keep exhaust velocity higher)
- Crawford high-flow cats
- JIC Magic y-pipe
- JIC Magic Spartan Type 1 (straight single pipe, single exit), titanium exhaust
- ACT prolite 13.2# flywheel
- AEM engine management and tune (soon to come)
________________________________________________________
- Nissan 4.08 gears
- weight reduction (racing seats and rear seat delete, gutted trunk, underbody metal removed, etc.)
THINKING about going with cams later, and cleaning up the factory heads - I've got engine-building/machining buddies
Anything obvious that I forgot, fellas? Thanks a bunch for your help!
Goal is: as close to 300rwhp as I can possibly get - would be happy with 285 to 290. Just making the car fun to drive: this is an '07 G35 Coupe - rev-up - 6MT.
- K&N filter for factory airbox
- Z-tube
- Motordyne 1/2" Iso-thermal spacers
- MREV-2
- plenum coolant bypass mod
- UR lightened underdrive pulley
- Stillen engine dampener
- Topspeed headers - heat wrapped ("trying" to keep exhaust velocity higher)
- Crawford high-flow cats
- JIC Magic y-pipe
- JIC Magic Spartan Type 1 (straight single pipe, single exit), titanium exhaust
- ACT prolite 13.2# flywheel
- AEM engine management and tune (soon to come)
________________________________________________________
- Nissan 4.08 gears
- weight reduction (racing seats and rear seat delete, gutted trunk, underbody metal removed, etc.)
THINKING about going with cams later, and cleaning up the factory heads - I've got engine-building/machining buddies
Anything obvious that I forgot, fellas? Thanks a bunch for your help!
Last edited by realdealg35; 02-02-2008 at 06:02 AM.
#4
With $1,500 your next move might be to get the cams, they'll definitely give you added hp as N/A. I would put that down as the next step. Start checking out what's available. JWT is my preference, but there's multiple brands out there and some shops even make theirs, and it won't break you $ wise.
#6
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I agree with Johnnylaw. My next step would be cams, some minor headwork, and a good tune. Tuning really wont gain you much "overall" HP but you'll be able to maximize your powerband. I would have done some stuff differentley then your inital setup, but thats just personal opinion. Your goals are pretty realistic... Good Luck!
#7
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If you want to see a more indepth NA build check this out...
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/284761-na-build-inside-soup-to-nuts.html
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/284761-na-build-inside-soup-to-nuts.html
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#8
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Originally Posted by realdealg35
I have read and read and read and searched and searched and searched, etc. to gain as MUCH knowledge as I possibly can about these cars, and would just like you fellas to "check my work." I'm used to building high-horsepower nitrous LSx V8's putting over 500rwhp to the ground, and this will be my first time modifying a small displacement N/A car. I'm going N/A for reliability as well as to keep the car balanced between power, braking, handling, weight, etc. (I know this isn't going to be a power monster) That being said, is there anything I need to ADD or possibly do differently than below (what I've already ordered, but not installed yet):
Goal is: as close to 300rwhp as I can possibly get - would be happy with 285 to 290. Just making the car fun to drive: this is an '07 G35 Coupe - rev-up - 6MT.
- K&N filter for factory airbox
- Z-tube
- Motordyne 1/2" Iso-thermal spacers - one spacer
- MREV-2
- plenum coolant bypass mod - no benefit
- UR lightened underdrive pulley - little benefit, high risk
- Stillen engine dampener - not needed
- Topspeed headers - heat wrapped ("trying" to keep exhaust velocity higher)
- Crawford high-flow cats
- JIC Magic y-pipe
- JIC Magic Spartan Type 1 (straight single pipe, single exit), titanium exhaust
- ACT prolite 13.2# flywheel - you will hate the noise, drivability
- AEM engine management and tune (soon to come)
________________________________________________________
- Nissan 4.08 gears
- weight reduction (racing seats and rear seat delete, gutted trunk, underbody metal removed, etc.) - lighter battery? leave underbody covers alone, contribute to zero lift and weigh nothing
THINKING about going with cams later, and cleaning up the factory heads - I've got engine-building/machining buddies
Anything obvious that I forgot, fellas? Thanks a bunch for your help!
Goal is: as close to 300rwhp as I can possibly get - would be happy with 285 to 290. Just making the car fun to drive: this is an '07 G35 Coupe - rev-up - 6MT.
- K&N filter for factory airbox
- Z-tube
- Motordyne 1/2" Iso-thermal spacers - one spacer
- MREV-2
- plenum coolant bypass mod - no benefit
- UR lightened underdrive pulley - little benefit, high risk
- Stillen engine dampener - not needed
- Topspeed headers - heat wrapped ("trying" to keep exhaust velocity higher)
- Crawford high-flow cats
- JIC Magic y-pipe
- JIC Magic Spartan Type 1 (straight single pipe, single exit), titanium exhaust
- ACT prolite 13.2# flywheel - you will hate the noise, drivability
- AEM engine management and tune (soon to come)
________________________________________________________
- Nissan 4.08 gears
- weight reduction (racing seats and rear seat delete, gutted trunk, underbody metal removed, etc.) - lighter battery? leave underbody covers alone, contribute to zero lift and weigh nothing
THINKING about going with cams later, and cleaning up the factory heads - I've got engine-building/machining buddies
Anything obvious that I forgot, fellas? Thanks a bunch for your help!
The '07s use the revup motor? I am under the impression that the HR motor is what they have. If you're looking for a lightweight drag monster, you got the wrong car. You are spending lots of money for little payback.
#10
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JWT S7 cams, UTEC, mild port and polish. im pretty sure the 1/2 inch plenum spacer + MREV2 doesnt do much. the MREV2 works much better with the 5/16th and the 1/2 inch works better alone. but yeah, there have been problems with aftermarket crank pullies leaking oil so ya might wana ditch that. all that and maybe a 3" MAFS, get ahold of a 85mm throttle body if ya can, cams, utec, tune and you'll be up there around 285-290. with the 4.08 gears and 13 pound fly it'll be a BLAST.
P.S.: what are these GTM cams I keep hearing about?
P.S.: what are these GTM cams I keep hearing about?
Last edited by ke0ki2k; 02-01-2008 at 12:51 PM.
#12
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Originally Posted by realdealg35
I have read and read and read and searched and searched and searched, etc. to gain as MUCH knowledge as I possibly can about these cars, and would just like you fellas to "check my work." I'm used to building high-horsepower nitrous LSx V8's putting over 500rwhp to the ground, and this will be my first time modifying a small displacement N/A car. I'm going N/A for reliability as well as to keep the car balanced between power, braking, handling, weight, etc. (I know this isn't going to be a power monster) That being said, is there anything I need to ADD or possibly do differently than below (what I've already ordered, but not installed yet):
Goal is: as close to 300rwhp as I can possibly get - would be happy with 285 to 290. Just making the car fun to drive: this is an '07 G35 Coupe - rev-up - 6MT.
- K&N filter for factory airbox
- Z-tube
- Motordyne 1/2" Iso-thermal spacers
- MREV-2
- plenum coolant bypass mod
- UR lightened underdrive pulley
- Stillen engine dampener
- Topspeed headers - heat wrapped ("trying" to keep exhaust velocity higher)
- Crawford high-flow cats
- JIC Magic y-pipe
- JIC Magic Spartan Type 1 (straight single pipe, single exit), titanium exhaust
- ACT prolite 13.2# flywheel
- AEM engine management and tune (soon to come)
________________________________________________________
- Nissan 4.08 gears
- weight reduction (racing seats and rear seat delete, gutted trunk, underbody metal removed, etc.)
THINKING about going with cams later, and cleaning up the factory heads - I've got engine-building/machining buddies
Anything obvious that I forgot, fellas? Thanks a bunch for your help!
Goal is: as close to 300rwhp as I can possibly get - would be happy with 285 to 290. Just making the car fun to drive: this is an '07 G35 Coupe - rev-up - 6MT.
- K&N filter for factory airbox
- Z-tube
- Motordyne 1/2" Iso-thermal spacers
- MREV-2
- plenum coolant bypass mod
- UR lightened underdrive pulley
- Stillen engine dampener
- Topspeed headers - heat wrapped ("trying" to keep exhaust velocity higher)
- Crawford high-flow cats
- JIC Magic y-pipe
- JIC Magic Spartan Type 1 (straight single pipe, single exit), titanium exhaust
- ACT prolite 13.2# flywheel
- AEM engine management and tune (soon to come)
________________________________________________________
- Nissan 4.08 gears
- weight reduction (racing seats and rear seat delete, gutted trunk, underbody metal removed, etc.)
THINKING about going with cams later, and cleaning up the factory heads - I've got engine-building/machining buddies
Anything obvious that I forgot, fellas? Thanks a bunch for your help!
Where are the cams?? You need a nice set of high lift cams...
#13
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honestly man you should have just bolted on a stillen stage 2 supercharger. for all that money you're spending you would have been better off with the sc. you say you want reliability, well the sc is very reliable. plus it comes with a warranty from stillen, however there are limits to this warranty. i think you run a bigger risk of an unreliable car running ur pulley, cams, port polish and all that. but i guess its too late for that. i spent a lot of money trying to do the same thing, and i was NEVER satisfied. i got a stage 2 recently, and damnit i wish i woulda just done this in the beginning. its so much fun! with the sc you dont need any other upgrades, its meant to work with a stock g/z. by the way, i have a 2004 g coupe, and my car hasnt idled this smoothly since it was stock.
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roots type blower also adds weight to the front end though....HIGH UP in the front end mind you. id rather lose 150 pounds, get 285 rwhp with a SMOOTH power/torque curve and run 4.08 gears with a light flywheel. with my gears id just spin with a supercharger. at the dragon the setup OP is doing with some suspension work & a wheel/tire setup like mine would MURDER a Z with most of the money put in a blower. BUT, the blower would be a ton more fun just ricing around messin with other fast cars...depends on what you want the car to be good at.
Last edited by ke0ki2k; 02-01-2008 at 09:38 PM.
#15
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Thanks for the help fellas! Sounds like I'm headed in the right general direction. I can forsee cams and freshened up heads in the future. Like I say, I'm NOT going for a drag/straight line car - merely one that never ceases to put a smile on my face whether I'm driving to work, or taking it up to VIR for a track day. My goal really isn't a certain power #, but moreso a "certain racing feel." Thus flywheel, gears, weight reduction, some suspension, some power.
SlideFox: Thanks for the link! I'll be studying it
Thanks everyone else for their input!
As for the Stillen supercharger: it's just not for me. Going FI and only making 330rwhp while adding a LOT of weight to the top front of the car (and getting a non-stock hood with a "domestic bulge" in it) is not something I'm interested in at all. If I was going FI, it would be 100%: built motor and a JWT TT kit - but I'm also not keen on spending upward of $12,000 to have a car that would still have problems outrunning my old '05 LS2 GTO.
Power-wise, I'll be just as happy with 280rwhp as I would with 330rwhp, because I used to have 515rwhp and 620ft-lbs of torque
One specific question guys: I'm used to switching out a cam (singular, lol) in an LSx motor and it sounding different - a little lopey, if you will. Does the VQ hide any sound difference when you switch out the cams, or does the engine/exhaust sound different after switching cams?
Thanks again for all of your help fellas!
BTW, included a couple pics in the original post to see what the car looks like
SlideFox: Thanks for the link! I'll be studying it
Thanks everyone else for their input!
As for the Stillen supercharger: it's just not for me. Going FI and only making 330rwhp while adding a LOT of weight to the top front of the car (and getting a non-stock hood with a "domestic bulge" in it) is not something I'm interested in at all. If I was going FI, it would be 100%: built motor and a JWT TT kit - but I'm also not keen on spending upward of $12,000 to have a car that would still have problems outrunning my old '05 LS2 GTO.
Power-wise, I'll be just as happy with 280rwhp as I would with 330rwhp, because I used to have 515rwhp and 620ft-lbs of torque
One specific question guys: I'm used to switching out a cam (singular, lol) in an LSx motor and it sounding different - a little lopey, if you will. Does the VQ hide any sound difference when you switch out the cams, or does the engine/exhaust sound different after switching cams?
Thanks again for all of your help fellas!
BTW, included a couple pics in the original post to see what the car looks like
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if you run real aggressive duration cams I think it causes a little lope. like 272 degree. the S7's are high lift but I dont think you'll get lope, Unless you go with the C8R cams from JWT 272 degree revup cams with rediculous lift. too much lift to use with stock pistons as a matter of fact.
#18
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ur def on the right way man and ur car looks great! Same wheels I want on my SB Z. I was in the same boat as u with NA power. Now im not bc its just not enough 4 me. Im in the process of trying to do sumthing with the STS system that nobody has yet. Also where did u get the price quote 4 JWT TT kit and a built motor 4 12K? Lol is that just parts or parts and labor? Also u may want to look into the Haltec bc it had a few more advantages that the utec doesnt. And since ur in NC like me I would def rec taking the car to JT @ PF.com. Hope this kinda helps and GL