spent

iTrader: (1)

I am doing a VQ 240sx swap and I am doing it with a minimalist mentality. I have a few questions I'm trying to figure out some things about the cooling system and any help would be appreciated. Keep in mind I am running no heater/AC.

First off, I'm looking to block off the dual inlet on the front of the drivers side head and I can't see any reason why not. One of these lines, on the driver side, runs FROM the heater, into the head, thus recycling heated coolant. Again, no heater so removing this shouldn't be a problem. The second line comes off VERTICALLY right before the water outlet on the passenger side and again sends warm coolant into the driver side head. The only reason I think this line is here is to act as a saftey precaution for the thermostat failing. If the thermostat were to fail, the coolant would back up and run up into this line. Otherwise, I don't see how coolant could even pass up into there. *After reading through the FSM some more, the second line coming across the engine is actually called a "Water bypass hose" so I see no reason this can't be removed.

Second, I am alittle confused by the routing of the oil cooler. From what I can tell, the oil cooler receives coolant right before it exits the engine into the radiator, thus receiving it at its warmest point, then after running through the cooler, the coolant bypasses the radiator and is sent back into the driver's side head near the thermostat. It would just seem like there was a more efficient way for this to be done. Any insight or suggestions on bettering this part of this system? I've read oil temperature can be a sore spot for the VQ engines and this part of the cooling system seems like it could be improved upon. But then again, maybe I am missing something?

Thanks in advance for any insight !

winchman

"...I am doing it with a minimalist mentality."

Are you sure you don't mean MINIMAL mentality?


You should look at the flow diagram on page CO-8 (of the '07fsm) to see how the coolant flows through the system.

As far as I can tell, there's no valve on the heater. So you cannot simply block off some ports and expect the cooling system to work properly.

MREDDLE

SUB'N
I don't see why there would be a problem removing all the BS and running only the main coolant in & out. The only good why to run a oil cooler is to change the water-to-oil out for a air-to-oil cooler. This would cool to oil better and remove a heat source from the coolling system.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

I blocked off the one that goes in front of the engine with no issues. It seems the one that goes to the heater should be able to be blocked off if you have no heater. Lots of guy also block off the oil warmer as well .

spent

iTrader: (1)

Miminal... ? Clearly your capacity for inguinity does not extend further then your pocket book will allow so please, if you don't have anything constructive to offer (which clearly you don't), I don't really think you need to participate in MY thread. And I dont know exactly what you are talking about in regards to a "heater valve" but the lines running into the port I am talking about blocking off, is a FLOW IN port with two lines; One coming from heater and the other coming from the "Water Bypass line". Obviously I am not going to have flow coming from the heater because I have no heater. I was more concerned about the Water Bypass line, in case I was missing something. I have indeed looked over the FSM several times, and there seems to be no reason why what I am proposing shouldn't work.

MREDDLE:

What if I did a generic Fluid-to-Air cooler and ran that inline before the oil cooler? Doesn't that sound more efficient than the OEM setup?

Sylvan Lake V35

That encouraging, thanks !! I do not know exactly what you mean by oil warmer though...? I'm using a 2004 VQ if that makes a difference.

Bellaco

iTrader: (9)

although the FSM calls the unit you are referring to as an oil cooler (the piece that has coolant running through it in between the oil pan and oil filter) most people refer to it as the oil warmer as its main function seems to be to bring the oil up to temp quickly for emissions purposes.

i personally (along with quite a few other members here) have completely eliminated that whole system and replaced it with a finned type air cooler. much more efficient. you can search for oil cooler and get quite a few ideas. i believe i may still have part numbers left for the stuff i used somewhere if you are interested.

BrazenZ

There is a thread "Oil warmer/cooler removal" in the DIY section that details a lot of what your asking about.

MREDDLE

You are correct and this is what I was getting at. I am doing a swap also and I will be removing the OEM oil cooler and installing a "fluid-to-air" oil cooler with the oil filter relocated. I'm also looking at removing the OEM oil by-pass in the OEM oil pump and installing a aftermarket oil pressure regulator. I don't know if you are going to trck your car but, I will. I have heard of some VQs having oilling issues and I am doing what I can to prevent any issues. Below is a link to what I am speaking of and I know that its for a different car but same thought.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123700949

Good Luck.

spent

iTrader: (1)

Ya, I found this thread and it answered all of my questions!! I searched before for oil cooler, never thought to look for oil warmer .

Basically, here is what I took from that thread for those who are interesed... The oil cooler is actually a oil warmer, is order to heat the oil up to get the temperature of the engine up quicker. On the VQ35HRs, these systems are actually completely removed so I think I am going to follow suite. Buying the HR oil filter stud allows you to bolt your oil filter directly to the engine block, only like 8$ too!! However, doing so will leave a open nipple on the thermostat housing. This nipple can neither be welded shut, or, the HR thermostat housings without a nipple fit the DE.

Also in the thread, people did indeed mention the Water Overflow Line and heater in line and I believe several of them removed both altogethor by doing exactly what I had described in my original post, just a simple block off plate.

MREDDLE: I will be tracking the car but just SCCA Solo for now so I can't imagine oil temps getting too out of control with runs that are only a few minutes. As long as oil pressure stays strong I think I leave the oil system well enough alone unless I start doing track days or something.

Thanks for everyones help!