So I have only had my car for a couple of months. It has 92000 miles on it and I feel like I got a really good deal on my 05 Base. I took it to a (Nissan Specific not a dealership) shop yesterday and they said the noise I have had for the last month is the throw-out bearing going bad. Since the car has 92000 miles on it they suggest replacing the Clutch as well and maybe the Flywheel. Should I go OEM (which the shop suggests), or should I go after market. This is my daily driver, I don't need my left leg to be larger than my right with an extra workout when ever I drive my car.

 

A clutch-flywheel combination similar to above will perform like the OEM clutch-flywheel. And certainly less expensive.


If you see a clutch like the one above you probably what to skip it.

 

Whats the noise sound like and when does it occur? I think the bearing that came with my exedy kit is crap.
When I start the car for the first couple min when I press the clutch I get a weird grinding noise. Is that what your experiencing?
And go OEM.

 

I get two different noises at different times. 1st is when the car is idling there is a grinding noise when the clutch is out, when I press the clutch in the noise goes away. The second noise is a grinding noise in 1st and 2nd gear at low RPM's (I thought is was the Rear Diff but I changed the Trans fluid and Rear Diff fluid on Monday and its still there) but it occurs at low RPM's (1000-2500) in 1st and 2nd gear as I give it gas slowly. It sounded like it was coming from the rear axle, but they are saying it's the throw-out bearing.

 

Noise 1 is the Tob

noise 2 sounds like you have a non
oem flywheel. Bad Tobs have nothing to do with rpm related noise

 

I keep on reading that a "grinding" noise when the clutch is disengaged points to a bad throw out bearing, yet I thought that some integrated clutch/flywheel setups naturally emit a vibration noise when disengaged.

I have a OS Giken STR and it has always emitted a noise when the clutch is diengaged. On OsGiken's website it states:

Why do all OS Giken clutches make a noise when the clutch is disengaged?

All OS clutch kits utilize a free-floating pressure plate design. Most “traditional” clutch designs secure the pressure plate to the cover through the use of a pressure plate drive strap (aka “granny strap”). The advantage of having the granny strap is that clutch operation remains noiseless whether the clutch is engaged or disengaged. However, in many situations where the clutch is being abused (i.e. “spirited” driving and/or racing), the granny strap can become a weak point in the system and has a tendency to bend or break, potentially causing clutch failure and damage to drivetrain components. With the OS free-floating pressure plate design, pressure applied to the disks is even throughout the clutch lifespan, and the friction material of the metallic disks is bonded through a specialized process (as opposed to the cheaper riveted process used by most other competitors and OEM). This aids in increasing durability and lengthening the useful service life of an OS clutch, as power will continue to be transmitted effectively until the disks are extremely thin (since no rivets are present to create another weak point). Some race teams have gone through multiple seasons on an OS clutch before requiring a rebuild!

In regards to multi-plate clutch designs, all aftermarket manufacturers' multi-plate clutches will inherently emit a noise when the clutch is disengaged. This noise is emitted from the centerplate(s) vibrating against the cover posts. However, many competitors' clutches do not utilize the same strengthening processes during manufacturing as OS Giken, which will lead to increased material degradation over time. Because of this, the clutch noise will often become louder over time, as the centerplate(s) start to wear away and have more free-play within the housing. The OS design, coupled with the use of the most suitable materials and manufacturing processes, will minimize any system degradation and help to keep the clutch performing and sounding the same as when it was first installed. In fact, many OS Giken clutch users are proud to point out the signature noise emitted to anyone who asks, as it is a reminder that the car is equipped with one of the best performing and longest lasting clutches available!

http://www.osgiken.net/faqs.html#200903_09

So how would I know if I have a tob that is going bad or if it is just normal "vibration" noise from from the centerplates vibrating against the cover posts?

Also, do most integrated clutch/flywheel setups come with an upgraded throw out bearing? I do see that my STR came with a "Sleeve bearing set". Does a sleeve bearing set include a throw out bearing or is it a seperate part?

 

you would need to take it apart

OS clutches do not use a stock Z33 TOB. There is really no such thing as an "upgraded" bearing - it's either the right bearing for the clutch or it's not. In the case of the OS, it comes with a sleeve and bearing that is specific to their clutch, though they tend to me stock Nissan parts from other models.

 

having the same problem here -.-

but my car rather makes a "rock in a tincan" noise on 1st and 2nd gear at low rpm

i hope warranty covers it. ugh

 

Thanks for the info Adam.

The tech at the tuning shop I go to thinks my STR is starting to go, but this would be a big surprise to me. I only have about 15k on it. 4k while S/C. It hasn't been abused, and I consider myself a good driver. And OS Giken clutches are considered to be very durable from what I understand. The friction material is ceramettalic (sintered iron I believe), it should be able to take a beating and last.

I'm not sure why the tech thinks it is going, but I have never experienced it slipping. It always delivers the power just fine. The only thing is the engagement is very tricky and on/off. There's a Dwolf stopper in the pedal too, so it grabs almost right off the floor. If not done right it can act/sound a little funny. Also, every once in awhile the pedal will not come back up, but this would only happen occasionally on cold starts, and after I pull it up with my foot, it usually goes back to normal. I have a ss line and use ATE fluid.

The clutch feels the same to me as the day it first went in. I think the occasional issue with the pedal not returning only on a cold start has to do with stock hydraulics not being able to handle a stiffer clutch, and not the clutch itself. I could be wrong though. Maybe I should take out the Dwolf stopper, I dunno.

 

it is good advice to do everything when you have it apart. with how cheap OEM/OEM level clutches are from exedy and other off brands, might as well do it all and be good to go for many more miles.
one brand that id recommend despite most people being elitist on their brands is XTD clutches. its an ebay brand, but i had to put one in due to an emergency repair to one of my Zs, and put in their stage two clutch and lightweight flywheel. definitely a good setup, but i would not recommend anything other than OEM for a flywheel; the change from a dual mass OEM flywheel to any lightweight one results in A LOT of chatter.
I can honestly say that i felt the difference in the revs and driving the car, but i hated pulling up to stop lights and my car sounding like it was going to fall apart.
long story short OP, id recommend all OEM replacement parts, or the Exedy OEM-style clutches they have
this
you may just be bogging it down which will cause chatter with any setup, or as said above a non-OEM flywheel

 

Thanks everyone for the help. Ill probably just have the shop that I took it to do everything they seem real honest and that they know what they are doing. My only concern is that they are saying its gonna cost $2200 for a new clutch kit and flywheel and the labor to put them in, is that reasonable or is that high?

 

If it's not slipping, there is unlikely to be an issue

Your clutch pedal issue points to a weak slave. I'd change it out, check the master for signs of premature wear, and fully bleed it as well. Clutch fluid is brake fluid as you know, so it absorbs moisture. Change it out once a year to be safe.

to the OP - those prices are probably spot on if the place is talking about using new, OEM parts. A stock flywheel is in the ~$1000 range by itself since it is a dual mass type design. Aftermarket units are single mass, and of varying materials, so they are considerably cheaper. We can easily supply the parts you need, be it OEM or aftermarket, so if you want a second opinion price wise, let us know.

 

Thanks,
I will call them tomorrow and get a little more detail on what they are using and if I have some leway and what parts they can use (be it OEM or aftermarket) I also checked out your website and it looks like you guys know your stuff. Thanks for your help.