VQ35 Bad Crank Angle Sensor? $700 from Dealer?
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VQ35 Bad Crank Angle Sensor? $700 from Dealer?
my engine had trouble starting out of no where..
noticed a weird rev earlier today, did not think much of it, although this has never happened..
got the engine to start thinking it was just a weak battery
got back in and saw about 3 lights go off
"service engine" and 2 others
googled and found this to be a common problem for bad crank sensors
called the local dealer and they said it is $150 to figure out the problem and the each sensor is "a couple hundred" and I am looking at spending $700 .. sure.
called the dealer I trusted and they said it is "ok" to drive to the to their shop for repair as long as the lights are not blinking
I will post an update tomorrow so people with a VQ don't have to stress over getting quoted $700+ for this
can I just pop in a new sensor ($90-$115) or is there more to this?
thank you
noticed a weird rev earlier today, did not think much of it, although this has never happened..
got the engine to start thinking it was just a weak battery
got back in and saw about 3 lights go off
"service engine" and 2 others
googled and found this to be a common problem for bad crank sensors
called the local dealer and they said it is $150 to figure out the problem and the each sensor is "a couple hundred" and I am looking at spending $700 .. sure.
called the dealer I trusted and they said it is "ok" to drive to the to their shop for repair as long as the lights are not blinking
I will post an update tomorrow so people with a VQ don't have to stress over getting quoted $700+ for this
can I just pop in a new sensor ($90-$115) or is there more to this?
thank you
Um, I had a camshaft position sensor go out on me which shows the same symptoms of tha CAS. I had a friend pull the code since he had a code reader, found out which sensor was bad. Bought CPS for $50 (my buddy is a parts manager) and replaced it myself. None of the sensors are hard to change so no way I'd pay $700.
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Um, I had a camshaft position sensor go out on me which shows the same symptoms of tha CAS. I had a friend pull the code since he had a code reader, found out which sensor was bad. Bought CPS for $50 (my buddy is a parts manager) and replaced it myself. None of the sensors are hard to change so no way I'd pay $700.
does a dealer need to read the code or can parts store or independent shops handle this
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the crank sensor might be covered by my warranty ..63,000 miles
the cam sensor is not
btw, my air bag sensor off a few months ago and when I called the dealer they said that they are NOW aware of a recall for my car for an airbag issue as of MOnday.
heading out today,
the dealer I talked to has taken care of me well in the past, its the 3 other T#$#%#% heads that do my local oil changes that try to play me..
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They keep saying they want to run the diagnostics..
man, its cheaper to just replace both sensors at home then to pay $150 to see which one it is..
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that what I was going to do if the warranty was not kicking in.
the dealers keep saying THEIR system checks are the only way to go...
yeah...
thanks for the help everyone, I just want this over so I don't fall behind on work
the dealers keep saying THEIR system checks are the only way to go...
yeah...
thanks for the help everyone, I just want this over so I don't fall behind on work
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one cam angle sensor failed , it was NOT the crank angle sensor
Parkway Infiniti took care of me.
and they did not charge for the testing $120-150, I had other service done at a fair price.
my question is would autozone have been able to locate a faulty crank and cam sensors? from what I hear online the answer is yes
Parkway Infiniti took care of me.
and they did not charge for the testing $120-150, I had other service done at a fair price.
my question is would autozone have been able to locate a faulty crank and cam sensors? from what I hear online the answer is yes
Last edited by dealersuck; Jul 16, 2010 at 08:30 PM.
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Of course they would, hence reading the code. The car knows exactly what went wrong when it threw the code, and by getting that code it is the car's way of telling you what it discovered went wrong. That wording confuses me reading back over it, but I don't care to change it, you get the idea.
I had the same problem and found out you can read the DTC codes w/o any tool.
Once I verified it was the Cranks Position Sensor code, I bought a new one at Schucks for like 60 bux.
The steps below took me several attempts but once you do, you'll know.
Once I verified it was the Cranks Position Sensor code, I bought a new one at Schucks for like 60 bux.
The steps below took me several attempts but once you do, you'll know.
Check and clear codes without a scan tool.
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the MIL (SES) light flashes.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode.
Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the MIL (SES) light flashes.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode.
Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).
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