Like this?






All working from the stock ecu and GM PCM. I will try to fine the link to the directions I posting on another thread. All tuning done on HPTuner Pro.

 

I know that the tach issue has been a pain in the a$$ for everyone (all 5 of us) who have already completed this swap. Believe me I didn't have any plans to keep it a secret for long.
I was just waiting to do a proper write up on the whole swap.


For those who must know right now here it is.

http://www.speedhut.com/

http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-462.htm

http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-609.htm

What I did is ordered the complete 350z gauge kit and ordered the tachometer to match (sorta since I wanted my tach to glow a different color at night). The tachometer is extremely slim so what I did is removed the tachometer guts from its surround and bezel. Then I completely disassembled the stock nissan gauge cluster to install the speedhut custom dial kit and then custom mounted the new tachometer (wiring and all) just on top of the stock 350z tach location. You'll need to completely remove the stock 350z tach needle but you wont need it anyway. You wont be able to use the 350z needle on the speedhut tach because the shaft on the speedhut stepper motor is too small. The new gauge sits about 1/2" higher inside the 350z gauge cluster but looks very stock to people who don't know any better.

 

Thanks for sharing what you have so far. I have taken what you've provided and used it on my build.

Should I remind you of your previous posts where you posted someone's PM's and was being a complete a$$? Or should I reference where you were keeping your coilover spring rates secret? Or should I reference your post above in this thread where you were talking about Cass's 5 blown motors? How about encouragement to a fellow my350z member? Kicking someone while they are down is not cool. I can go through your whole history and quote them. However, I won't because I'm bigger than that. We all know you didn't invent the swap. We all know that you paid 20k for your swap. I'm not trying to attack you at all. I actually looked up to your swap because you were the first in our area. Maybe it's because I've never met you in person, but the tone of your posts are not very nice. I'm just merely stating an opinion that is shared by more than one person on this forum. I just want you to know that some of the things you say and do on this forum are not cool. I hope we can put this past us because frankly I want to learn and not bicker.

 

That's just it. You don't know me in person so you may be applying what YOUR perception of me is to the tone of my post. I'd like to believe that IF you really did know me you'd know I'm not as bad as you'd like to think I am. It wasn't that long ago that I too blew my motor due to a bad FI install and the biggest problem was that I did the install (*insert laughter here). The LS swap was cost effective for me vs. a complete VQ+turbo build because that cost about the same in the end for the modest power range I was looking for. During the whole process I learned a little something about the LS in that it's a great motor but just like anything else it will only handle what it was designed to handle unless you plan of a complete rebuild. So if someone says that they wanna made 5, 6, 700hp from a almost stock-ish block should I not say anything? Would my silence save Cass007 or anyone else with such risky goals from blowing their motors in the attempt make that kind of insane power on a stock block using an untested fuel management system?
I know Cass007 didn't say he wanted to make 600-700hp but I really just used him as an example for the kind of questions and post I see and get all the time. Please keep in mind that this isn't the only forum I'm a member of.
I am about "encouragement to a fellow my350z member", but not about encouraging bad ideas. I really do feel bad for his situation, I've been there just not so many times. I can sympathize but I start to lose a bit of that sympathy when to me it sounds like the same thought process for "MORE POWER" is being used just that the motor different. Can anyone who has pursued "MORE POWER" say they haven't been met with one failure or another?
For over a year now I've had ZERO issues daily driving my LS swap (*probably because I didn't do the install) and only didn't drive it on the 2 snow days we had this year. 405rwhp and 410ftlb and not a day do I miss turbo anything. 3rd gear is all the boost I need for now. So yeah it comes across a little when someone who hasn't even driven this kinda swaps starts talking about "MORE POWER". You don't even understand the power you have before you're already talking about needing more and then you wanna ask how much it cost? I'm sorry, maybe I'm too old to understand the logic but it all sounds rather Bass Ackwards to me. Like I said Cass007 isn't the only one I hear this kinda stuff from but after awhile is starts to become less funny and a little more

Now about the spring rate again.... The suspension setup on my car is custom and pretty far from stock. In fact there isn't even much stock left in the rear at all. My setup is made up of Buddy Club racing spec coilover (true coil on damper setup), Battle-version, and a few other custom made parts to correct alignment issues I've had over the years. Telling anyone what my spring rate is for my setup would have probably caused more harm than good. Even if I did remember it without having to dig up the paperwork it's already a well known fact that it's not needed for this swap on the stock suspension (My car was upgraded from stock in 2005 at about 1500miles). However if you really must have full disclosure I would simple advise those who must know to contact Swift Springs USA http://www.swiftsprings.com/ and tell them what you have and what your looking for.

I am not a bad person. There is no incentive for me to post anything but I do because I want to help. Sometimes the information I share is well received and sometimes not so much but in the end I'm just trying to share knowledge so it's easier for the next person.

 

Congrats on the LS2 purchase.
Cass007 some advice if you want it.

Sell the ViPEC and stick with the stock LS2 PCM for ease of use and installation. with the money from the ViPEC buy the HPTuner or HPTuner Pro. http://www.hptuners.com/order.php
Better tuning software and much better support. You'll also have access to the "Tune Repository" where you'll be able to browse through other tunes created by other HP Tuners members. The repository also has the base baseline tunes in the event you need to return to stock. Helpful if you live in an area that requires smog testing. the HPTuner or HPTuner Pro can be tuned for 102mm TB but truth be told some have been getter less then stellar returns from TB upgrades.
There is no since trying to use a standalone that only a few tuners can tune properly when there are already cheaper, better, and race proven options. Your going to have to realize sooner or later that the options you were forced to use to mod an import no longer apply and that your best solutions and options may end up say "Made in the U.S.A".

http://www.hptuners.com/order.php

 

holy ****. so many letters

 

havok- what wires did you splice into to get your tach working?? pics would be awesome but a description would help us out too.

cass-i ordered a set of factory ls1 injectors to get it started "like stock", because mine is a built block, i wanna get it up and running with as few headaches as possible, so maf, etc. is all gonna be on it before my tune. once i break the motor in, the turbo is going on, converting to speed density, and running my 96lb injectors (with aem driver box). also, your dwb setup should be very simple. literally plug and play. just be careful of the wiring, i know snyper ran into a few issues with his car dying due to a kinked tb wire (hes also ls2 dbw). there is tons of info on ls1tech, im just scratching the surface here with my knowledge. also, an ls6 intake manifold seems to hold impressive gains for less than half of the fast setup. somethin worth looking into.

i will be starting a build thread with as many details as possible when my swap kit comes in this week. starting with some basic ls6 pvc setup to the swap, detailed pics of the sikky wiring conversion, tach install, etc. and finally the turbo install after all is said and done. i figure the more info i can get out onto these forums, the less searching/confusion there will be for other users. snyper, qwamen, and havok are all good sources of info as well, and have learned quite a few things from them in my quest to build my z for the last time. also cass, listen to havok on selling the vipec. its a great ems, but completely not needed. theres guys turning over 1000+rwhp on stock ls pcm's!!!

 

Well said.

 

While this is awesome looking, I prefer the factory lighting. However I think I could get used to the tach.

 

Havok, we can all learn from you and get along just fine. I am an admitted noob in terms of the LS, but I didn't think a little extra power was a horrible thing. Although I have experienced several failures, I have never once refused to use the proper parts needed to try and achieve my power goals. I mearly had/have what I feel is a valid concern that after having 578whp DD, something ~200whp less may feel somewhat lacking by my butt dyno. I will sawp in the stock LS and if I start feeling the need for boost I will most likely purchase the iron 5.3 block and use it as my F/I platform for a build.

The LS platform IMO is like the wild west, there are no defined must have parts or turn-key kits yet. Guys like Snyper and Havok are the pioneers that led the way and we are following in their footprints while at the same time trying different things that may make it easier on the next set of converts.

Here is another option for gauge faces (this is what I have):
http://www.blackcatcustom.com/Nissan%20350Z.htm

It says the LED conversion kit can only be used with their gauge faces, but that makes zero sense. You take apart the cluster, change out the LEDs and put it back together. The hardest part is setting the needles back correctly. I know a guy that knows how to put the cluster into a test mode, it puts the gauges at set values so you can set the needles correctly. I will see if he can pass the info on to me to share. Lastly, the LED swap allows use of the factory dimmer function.

My concern with the tach Havok has is the gauge color itself. I would really like all mine to match.

As far as the EMS goes, that will be a gametime decision. If ViPEC gets the codes for the canbus, it should just be PnP. Plus, I already have it, but I will sell it if the other option seems better down the road.

 

Man so much info right now.... lol good stuff though..

Someone wanted to know spring rates. Well mine our 14k/12k on a true coliover setup..

 

Thanks. I wanted to make sure that the springs I already have would work. I have a 15k/6k true as well.

 

Will this fix the tach issue?

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-352-cangateway.aspx

Instructions for wiring:
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/Insta...eterWiring.pdf

If the SIKKY kit makes everything else work and this does the tach... stock gauges for us all

 

Nope. I spoke to Brian @ HinsonSupercars some time ago regarding that Can Bus/Gatway fix and he basically said that it doesn't work. Besides you really don't need it.

 

The guys at SpeedHut can match the factory lighting. I just decided to do something different. I think Quaman's setup is pretty close to factory. I took two gauge clusters apart in an attempt to rewire and retrofit the stock Z tach stepper motor and gauge cluster to work with the guts of an aftermarket tach. This is the best I could come up with.
Believe me when I tell you that the SpeedHut tachs are awesome.

 

Hopefully this will clear up why the tach won't work it's from the rb26 z thread

 

Exactly correct. As funny as it may sound I thought the same thing in my attempt to rewire the stock gauge cluster. Fail.
Yes it's true that the gauge cluster in 350z is basically a big circuit board but the signaling and processing take place in other components within the car. Don't think of the Z system and a simple computer where all processing is done through the ECU but rather a complex network of computers that communicate within the system. The tach signal that everyone is looking for can't be found in one wire. The tach signal in a stock Z is actually signal from the 6 fuel injectors pulse that the ECU deciphers a engine speed from. You'd think that there would be a output signal wire from the ECU but there isn't (There is according to the ECU pin out but not one you can get a tach signal from). The ECU sends it signal information to another "box" (the white one under the climate controls) and the it's just gone in the mix of ribbon connector and circuit boards. That tach system has been a major PITA for a reason.

@bbs350z - I hope some of that answered your question. There was NO splicing involved once the LS was in. The Tach signal comes straight from the LS motor (One wire) routed through the engine bay and in through the passenger side firewall main wire grommet. Sorry no pics. .

 

ryans is almost dead on actually. im very impressed with the fitment of the tach in our cluster and am sold. i just need to actually buy the damn thing. havok, any insight on what wire it was to get the tach signal??? im so amazed at how simple the ls motor is compared to how much of a pita the z motor is *kicks rock*

the oem gauges are an orange plastic, so no matter what color led you put through it the cluster will still glow an orange hue. the black cats come blank, and whatever color you choose is the color that shows through. i have a luxeon white conversion onmine, and going with the speedhut tach that matches this as closely as possible. even if the stock tach would work, the speedhut setup looks so much better.

 

It's the same way Ryan wire his up since I'm pretty sure he got the instructions from me.
BB trust me when I say you wont have any problems with this part of the install if you're going to SpeedHut route. The install is simple and you'll only need to run one wire through the firewall. If you're really concerned about the wiring then here are a few options that I know of.
1. Call Sikky from their complete wiring service. Note: How mine is wired and looks stock.
2. Painless sells a complete wiring harness kit for the LS motors for people doing LS swaps. Note: Buy a whole lot of split loom, electrical tape and brush up on your soldering skills. http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...er=60008/302.0
Did I mention that this option is nasty expensive?

 

already got the sikky wiring service en route!! my main concern is finding a place to fit this turbo lol