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Sikky 350z/G35 LSX swap

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Old May 10, 2011 | 11:36 PM
  #401  
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Originally Posted by bbs350z
already got the sikky wiring service en route!! my main concern is finding a place to fit this turbo lol
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:45 AM
  #402  
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Originally Posted by bbs350z
the oem gauges are an orange plastic, so no matter what color led you put through it the cluster will still glow an orange hue. the black cats come blank, and whatever color you choose is the color that shows through. i have a luxeon white conversion onmine, and going with the speedhut tach that matches this as closely as possible. even if the stock tach would work, the speedhut setup looks so much better.
Not true, the Black Cats can be made to order. Here is what I have:

Sikky 350z/G35 LSX swap-dsc03984.jpg Sikky 350z/G35 LSX swap-dsc03987.jpg

Pearl white faces with blue numbers and blue LEDs.

Havok, what color combo did you choose for the speedhut tach? yours looks very close to my gauge colors.

Why would Hinson advertise and sell a product that doesn't work? SHADY

Confirmed on everything Havok said about the tach signal, it goes to the box behind the AC controls and then through the data chord to the cluster. I'm not loving the idea of ripping into my already modded cluster. I have a spare one that I will mount the speedhut tach to and then send out to a friend and have all the LEDs converted to match the Defi blue racer gauges.

bbs - post a few pics of the wiring harness when you get it back please. Does SIKKY run the new tach wire into the main harness when they do the wiring work? Where is the crank sensor on the LS?

Lastly, anyone running Defi gauges in the center console? My oil pressure gauge just fit in the console before running out of wire. If the pressure sending unit is on the drivers side I will have to rewire everything through the smaller drivers side firewall grommet. So many questions
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:50 AM
  #403  
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Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2
It's the same way Ryan wire his up since I'm pretty sure he got the instructions from me.
BB trust me when I say you wont have any problems with this part of the install if you're going to SpeedHut route. The install is simple and you'll only need to run one wire through the firewall. If you're really concerned about the wiring then here are a few options that I know of.
1. Call Sikky from their complete wiring service. Note: How mine is wired and looks stock.
2. Painless sells a complete wiring harness kit for the LS motors for people doing LS swaps. Note: Buy a whole lot of split loom, electrical tape and brush up on your soldering skills. http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...er=60008/302.0
Did I mention that this option is nasty expensive?

You gave me the part number for the gauge but I'm running a full standalone so mine was super easy. Just ran the green tach wire from the Electromotive TEC-GT to the tach and done.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #404  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
Not true, the Black Cats can be made to order. Here is what I have:

Why would Hinson advertise and sell a product that doesn't work? SHADY

bbs - post a few pics of the wiring harness when you get it back please. Does SIKKY run the new tach wire into the main harness when they do the wiring work? Where is the crank sensor on the LS?

Lastly, anyone running Defi gauges in the center console? My oil pressure gauge just fit in the console before running out of wire. If the pressure sending unit is on the drivers side I will have to rewire everything through the smaller drivers side firewall grommet. So many questions
i was just saing how the z gauges come with orange plastic, but the blackcats are customizable in any way possible (black and blue here-lights up white)

hinson never sells things that work anymore lol

and cass ill send ya pics asap. the crank sensor is located on the back passenger side and sits below the starter, and i need a place to mount my boost gauge, as my wideband is in my door vent and i hate pillar mount gauges
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #405  
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quick question, there is a ls specialty tuning shop about 45 minutes from me, would i have to buy hp tuners and have them tune it, or could i purchase credits through their shop and have them tune it (assuming i only use 4 or so of the 8 supplied credits)?

i have a very basic understanding of how the credit system works, but im a bit hazy if i actually need to purchase the software and then pay them to tune it
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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^^ I would like to know this as well
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Old May 11, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bbs350z
quick question, there is a ls specialty tuning shop about 45 minutes from me, would i have to buy hp tuners and have them tune it, or could i purchase credits through their shop and have them tune it (assuming i only use 4 or so of the 8 supplied credits)?

i have a very basic understanding of how the credit system works, but im a bit hazy if i actually need to purchase the software and then pay them to tune it
Good question! Originally when JE Import Performance did the tuning on mine all I had to do was purchase the credits. Expect it to be about 8 credits and just be surprised when it's less. I later purchased my own HPTuner Pro and credits.
Tuner & Author Greg Banish has published as number of instructional books and DVD's that you'll want to get your hands on as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Greg-Banish/e/...r_dp_pel_pop_1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-DVD-1/

And it you have real money you can take his classes.

http://www.calibratedsuccess.com/

Last edited by Havok_RLS2; May 11, 2011 at 06:19 PM.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #408  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
You gave me the part number for the gauge but I'm running a full standalone so mine was super easy. Just ran the green tach wire from the Electromotive TEC-GT to the tach and done.
Damn! I forgot you were running a full standalone system.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #409  
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Quick trans question.

I like to do all three AutoX, RR, and Drag racing plus my car see allot of street use, because there is almost no snow (South Carolina). I'm going to splurge a little on my engine and trans. For the trans, what gear ratios shuld I choose with everything in mind?

2.97, 2.10, 1.46, 1.00, .74, .50
or
2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63

Or will I not notice a difference with either?

Thanks.

Last edited by Chi-TownWarrior; May 12, 2011 at 09:38 AM.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 10:34 AM
  #410  
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Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
Quick trans question.

I like to do all three AutoX, RR, and Drag racing plus my car see allot of street use, because there is almost no snow (South Carolina). I'm going to splurge a little on my engine and trans. For the trans, what gear ratios shuld I choose with everything in mind?

2.97, 2.10, 1.46, 1.00, .74, .50
or
2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63

Or will I not notice a difference with either?

Thanks.
I thought I read on the LS forum that your second choice was the more popular.

Just got some more info today on the swap and want to see how others are handling these issues.

1. The AC controls on our cars will no longer function (I am waiting for clarification on if its just the on/off function or the whole setup). How are you guys planning to deal with this issue?

2. The VATS system on the LS needs to be bypassed. JE Performance can do this, anyone know what they charge for the service?
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Old May 12, 2011 | 10:41 AM
  #411  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
1. The AC controls on our cars will no longer function (I am waiting for clarification on if its just the on/off function or the whole setup). How are you guys planning to deal with this issue?
I found this on the first page, but this is the only bit of information I can find on the subject

https://my350z.com/forum/8816540-post37.html

I'll shoot them an email and report my findings.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 02:27 PM
  #412  
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Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
Quick trans question.

I like to do all three AutoX, RR, and Drag racing plus my car see allot of street use, because there is almost no snow (South Carolina). I'm going to splurge a little on my engine and trans. For the trans, what gear ratios shuld I choose with everything in mind?

2.97, 2.10, 1.46, 1.00, .74, .50
or
2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63

Or will I not notice a difference with either?

Thanks.
You first gear set is more of a cruiser gear set and the second is more of a road race gear set. I'm personally going with the T-56 Magnum with the second gear set. Beware! T56 Magnums will not accept the Sikky driveshaft or the shifter. The magnum has a 31 spine output shaft vs 28 spline and it's 1.7" longer.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 02:36 PM
  #413  
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Originally Posted by QTB
You first gear set is more of a cruiser gear set and the second is more of a road race gear set. I'm personally going with the T-56 Magnum with the second gear set. Beware! T56 Magnums will not accept the Sikky driveshaft or the shifter. The magnum has a 31 spine output shaft vs 28 spline and it's 1.7" longer.
Yeah the second option is my first choice. But thanks for the info on the Magnums. I had thought that would be an issue but I hadn't read into that at all. I'll probably end up going with the Magnum as well, but ordering the drive shaft custom.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 02:40 PM
  #414  
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Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
Yeah the second option is my first choice. But thanks for the info on the Magnums. I had thought that would be an issue but I hadn't read into that at all. I'll probably end up going with the Magnum as well, but ordering the drive shaft custom.
I'm still using the Sikky just having it modified.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 02:44 PM
  #415  
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Originally Posted by QTB
I'm still using the Sikky just having it modified.
You'll probably get around to doing this before I will, so post how it goes.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
You'll probably get around to doing this before I will, so post how it goes.
Ha, we'll see. I'm waiting on my Ed Curtis custom cam and other valvetrain goodies. Could take another few weeks before I even start to pull my VQ

Regardless I'll do a write up on a T56 Mag install. when I'm done.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #417  
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WOOT!!

Sikky 350z/G35 LSX swap-p5121438.jpg Sikky 350z/G35 LSX swap-p5121439.jpg Sikky 350z/G35 LSX swap-p5121440.jpg

Thank goodness I have a box truck with a liftgate or getting this off the delivery truck and back to the house would have been an adventure.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #418  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
WOOT!!

Attachment 314249 Attachment 314250 Attachment 314251

Thank goodness I have a box truck with a liftgate or getting this off the delivery truck and back to the house would have been an adventure.
Congrats! Welcome to the club!
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Cass007
WOOT!!

Attachment 314249 Attachment 314250 Attachment 314251

Thank goodness I have a box truck with a liftgate or getting this off the delivery truck and back to the house would have been an adventure.
Very Nice! Welcome to the club.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #420  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
I thought I read on the LS forum that your second choice was the more popular.

Just got some more info today on the swap and want to see how others are handling these issues.

1. The AC controls on our cars will no longer function (I am waiting for clarification on if its just the on/off function or the whole setup). How are you guys planning to deal with this issue?

2. The VATS system on the LS needs to be bypassed. JE Performance can do this, anyone know what they charge for the service?
1. JE and Sikky have solved the A/C control issues with the LS swap. IN fact their current project car has full working A/C. I'm thinking about having them do mine this summer.

2. The LS VATS isn't a bypass. I'm pretty sure its turned off in the tuning process. Should be able to turn if off with the HPTuner.
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