well this shiit needs a bump

 

I'm waiting to see what needs to be done to put a LS2 in a Z and still keep all the functionality. And like some here I'd like to see what it takes to keep the factory TCS/VDC working if at all possible.

 

bump is right on the ac line did it hold up?

 

Where is the thread bbs? I'm waiting for step by step instructions on the Sikky components install (especially the bleeder setup and such).

I'm hoping to sell one of my restaurants this week and if that goes through I will be full speed ahead and order my Sikky components the same day the check gets to me. I finally got the stupid crank pulley bolt off and log manis loose, just need to have the turbos inspected and then everything else can go up for sale.

 

Wimp... the crank bolt is only torqued to 240 ft-lbs...

 

This should have happened a while ago! Can't wait to see everyones all done.

Chris

 

heres a very helpful site for sensor info etc.
http://www.chevythunder.com/ls1_page_1.htm


some tips and tricks i recommend...without a camera its difficult to do a step by step but i used my phone so excuse the shittty pics ill post up later... cass, the sikky intructions for the master cylinder are a good set of instructions, however i say when swapping the master cylinder, bring extra lube lol, maybe a 2nd pair of hands, and definitely snap ring pliers. i had a biitch of a time using a needlenose and a wall lol. it was pretty simple removing the old one and installing the new one. the bleeder setup was also very simple. theres 2 stainless lines going to the trans hydraulics. the top one is the bleeder line, and threads right in. a 13mm wrench should do the trick, just dont overtighten or youll break a fitting like i did. the 2nd line, the bottom line is the line that runs to the master cylinder. it uses a pin to hold the fitting in. using a punch or other similar sized device, puch out the pin, make sure theres no rubber grommets lft inside, put the new sikky fitting in there, and replace the pin. the fitting should spin pretty freely, but shouldnt move in or out at all. then thread in the line, and tighten down with the 13mm wrench, again being cautious not to snap the fitting.

installing the clutch is a straightforward process as well. torque in a 6 point star pattern 17 lb ft, then 37 lb ft, then 74lb ft. some different clutch manufacturers have different torque recommendations. then line up the trans and slide on. you might need to spin the shaft to line up the splines, it should spin freely. torque bolts down to 37lb ft. in neutral, the splines should still spin freely, once in gear it shouldnt move. do not install the shifter either.

now getting the motor into the car was pretty simple. i did it with all the accessories on the motor using an engine hoist and a jack for the trans. remove the power steering line that threads in the top hole in the front of the steering shaft (as the hoses that ran to the factory z ps pump etc can be eliminated), as you dont want to pinch this line (did this twice prior, $38 at nissan lol). i had the motor raised up pretty high, slid it in, lowered it on the jack, then installed the shifter. its very very tall, so it made it awkward to get the motor/trans in with it on. its also impossible to get to with the trans bolted up, so installing while the trans is down is a must, imho at least.

once the shifter is installed, raise the trans up and lower the motor down (helps if theres a second person). once you have enough clearence in the bay, push the motor back further. i have raised valve covers so it hit the sides often.

the trans mount bracket has the trans hole offset to the driver side. even with the motor sitting in place, the trans didnt want to sit in the hole, so i bolted down the plate to the car, and used a pry bar to get the trans lined up with the hole. it took very little effort. once the motor is in, finish bolting down the 4 14mm trans plate bolts, and the 19mm trans mount bolt. move to the front and tighten the 14mm motor mount bolts.

with the motor in, you can really see your clearances. the sikky oil pan gets in the way of the power steering line that you removed earlier, so take that line, and gently bend it out of the way of the pan. it should clear and thread in easily afterwards. you may or may not need to bend it to thread into the steering shaft as well, i had to but it was painless.

i test fitted the front rad support using stock fans and a thicker koyo rad, i have no clearance. the water pump hits the blades of the fan, so for me, a set of pusher fans is a must at the moment. another solution would be to use the thinner c5 corvette water pump.

 

Just got off the phone with Sikky a while ago. Ordering the full deal (mount kit, headers, power steering and clutch kits) went without a hitch. I have no problem repeating what others have said thus far- the customer service over there is top notch (right down to the music selection used for on hold calls). This might be the last you guys hear from me regarding the swap for a while. I'm going to be on a parts collecting binge for the next year or so while I go fight dem al queda boys. As far as what engine to use I'm torn between the LS6 and LS2. What do you guys think?

 

good luck out there! as for the motor, i say go ls2.

 

Depends on few things. What are your goals power wise? Staying N/A or going boost? All Corvette LS1s and all LS2s and LS6s are DBW while the rest of the LS1s are cable throttle. If you plan on getting heads, cam, intake, etc, might as well save some dough and just get an LS1. LS2s are nice because of the few extra cubic inches but they generally more expensive. Same goes for the LS6 over the LS1 in the price department. Most 2002 F-body's were basically an LS6 with LS1 heads so if you plan on going with different heads, it's a good option. If you plan on keeping the engine stock and just run a few boltons, you can't go wrong with either the LS2 or the LS6. You can rev the LS6 higher with more reliability than the LS2 because of the lightweight valves. If you start modding an LS6, LS1, or LS2, the gaps between their factory power outputs is narrowed greatly. Any way you look at it you just can't go wrong.

 

Thanks bbs... that is helpful. I was kind of hoping for pictures of the LS with captions of "here is this sensor"

Do you think the power steering rack and crossmember can be put on the LS and then raised into place? This is how I have installed the VQ in the past. Also, to install the Sikky bleeder kit do I have to remove the trans?

 

i can get pics of sensor locations and whatnot. i broke my oil sensor that rests behind the head so be careful installing that, theyre easy to break.

i dont think itd be a problem to drop the entire front and install it that way, seems easier with the subframe off, etc.

as for the bleeder kit, id imagine itd be worth the extra 10mins to break off the trans, get everything sorted in there (especially because the line going to the master cylinder has a pin), and bolt it back up and trq to 37 lb ft. the last thing you want is a clutch hydraulic leak after everything is assembled and installed.

 

Wanted to share this company with you guys.. Might have them do the harness but still up in the air on that..

http://www.chasebays.com/product/nis...chevy-ls1--ls6

 

They have a sense of humor

 

Got it, I will be trying to have as many of the VQ sensors connected to the LS as possible. I can have my friend make some custom sleeves for them as long as the bores aren't too similar in size. Put the sleeve in the LS (outer threads) and screw the VQ sensor into the inside of the sleeve. There may be a company out there that makes these parts, I still have research to do.

 

The stock 350z coolant sensor fits directly in the stock coolant port of the driver side LS head. However, the GM ECU may require a signal also. The stock Z oil pressure sensor is 1/8bsp and can be easily retro-fitted into the M16 oil pressure port at the back upper portion of the LS motor. That is what I did on my motor at least.

 

Define "retro fitted" please

 

just a term used when replacing something with another that isnt supposed to be there, like with the tach, we retro fit the speedhut tach into our cluster.

i say, for simplicity sake, why not just utilize the oem chevy sensors, and send the harness to sikky. royal t- id consider this vs going w/ a custom harness that still has to be tied into the z harness somehow. its $550 for their service and cuts the headache out. plus im fairly certain gm sensors are cheaper than nissan sensors. with the sikky wiring, every gauge will work except the tach (no company has figured that out yet)

 

I will take the path of least resistance. If the sensors will work in the cluster, that is all I really want.

 

From what I have found, the only thing that will not work is the tach.