My SIKKY LS2 install thread
Okay that is great,, I am removing MAF completely also.. I also think the exhaust sound pretty damn good.. Can't wait for more vids
i decided to keep the oem ls1 coolant sensor and wires on my car as well. the nissan sensor literally controls just the gauge, but i was wondering if it would affect my tune with a literally blank engine temp reading on my speed density tune so i effectively have 2 collant sensors. 1 for tuning, 1 for that fancy gauge lmao
Got an email from Franz yesterday and there is some drama of course. The car has a misfire under acceleration. Also, the MAP sensor **** the bed and needs to be replaced. The possible causes for the misfire are as follows:
MAP Sensor - The MAP sensor is being replaced, but tuning is one of the last things that I know nothing about, so I have zero knowledge about how this would affect things.
Spark Plugs - I changed in fresh plugs when we put the headers on, so unless I gapped one wrong or some anti-sieze got on the tip I can rule that out.
Manifold Leak - This hasn't been touched since purchase and is still the stock unit 100%. Its possible, but I would guess unlikely.
Valve Seat - Possible, but I thought it would be noticed at idle as well
I bought the engine from LKQ and I believe they run all the motors prior to shipping them and it came with a 6 month warranty that expired while it sat on the floor in my garage.
Honestly, if I have to crack this engine open after getting all this way I may need to take it as a sign from God and part out everything and sell this money pit.
Soooooo sick of small moments of happiness (like the car idling) followed immediately by constant fail and issues
The car has been gone from my house since the end of August. After not seeing it for 9 weeks its like it doesn't really exsist anymore.
MAP Sensor - The MAP sensor is being replaced, but tuning is one of the last things that I know nothing about, so I have zero knowledge about how this would affect things.
Spark Plugs - I changed in fresh plugs when we put the headers on, so unless I gapped one wrong or some anti-sieze got on the tip I can rule that out.
Manifold Leak - This hasn't been touched since purchase and is still the stock unit 100%. Its possible, but I would guess unlikely.
Valve Seat - Possible, but I thought it would be noticed at idle as well
I bought the engine from LKQ and I believe they run all the motors prior to shipping them and it came with a 6 month warranty that expired while it sat on the floor in my garage.Honestly, if I have to crack this engine open after getting all this way I may need to take it as a sign from God and part out everything and sell this money pit.
Soooooo sick of small moments of happiness (like the car idling) followed immediately by constant fail and issues
The car has been gone from my house since the end of August. After not seeing it for 9 weeks its like it doesn't really exsist anymore.
With MAP I doubt that a leak would cause a significant misfire of any sort. I would also assume a valve seat would be seen under all conditions as you mentioned.
If I were you I would check the engine ground. I found that on my personal car the stock 350z grounding wire from the battery was too small and actually got hot at idle. I replaced it with 2 gauge wire and removed the paint from the OEM grounding point on the chassis. Beyond that I also ran 4 gauge grounding cable to each head from the chassis. This change made a huge difference on my car at load. I was ask Franz to see if the ground cable from the battery is warm at idle or under load.
If I were you I would check the engine ground. I found that on my personal car the stock 350z grounding wire from the battery was too small and actually got hot at idle. I replaced it with 2 gauge wire and removed the paint from the OEM grounding point on the chassis. Beyond that I also ran 4 gauge grounding cable to each head from the chassis. This change made a huge difference on my car at load. I was ask Franz to see if the ground cable from the battery is warm at idle or under load.
Last edited by Quamen; Nov 7, 2011 at 08:25 AM.
With MAP I doubt that a leak would cause a significant misfire of any sort. I would also assume a valve seat would be seen under all conditions as you mentioned.
If I were you I would check the engine ground. I found that on my personal car the stock 350z grounding wire from the battery was too small and actually got hot at idle. I replaced it with 2 gauge wire and removed the paint from the OEM grounding point on the chassis. Beyond that I also ran 4 gauge grounding cable to each head from the chassis. This change made a huge difference on my car at load. I was ask Franz to see if the ground cable from the battery is warm at idle or under load.
If I were you I would check the engine ground. I found that on my personal car the stock 350z grounding wire from the battery was too small and actually got hot at idle. I replaced it with 2 gauge wire and removed the paint from the OEM grounding point on the chassis. Beyond that I also ran 4 gauge grounding cable to each head from the chassis. This change made a huge difference on my car at load. I was ask Franz to see if the ground cable from the battery is warm at idle or under load.
Franz found the issue. Compression checked out just fine, plugs, coils and wires are solid. Issue was that the fuel was stale... I had put Stabil in the tank prior to teardown, but the lines had laid open for so long that the fuel went bad. Thank goodness it was something simple and is solved.
On the plus side, Franz cracked open the valve covers and said everything looks very clean inside
Vid coming late tonight or tomorrow of some rev ups ... can't wait to hear what it sounds like.
On the plus side, Franz cracked open the valve covers and said everything looks very clean inside
Vid coming late tonight or tomorrow of some rev ups ... can't wait to hear what it sounds like.
We are using the stock LS MAP sensor in its stock location and it is wired into the ECU.
I am running the ViPEC V88, IMO it the best ECU on the market for the money. It will do almost everything a MoTec will do for a fraction of the price. The ONLY downside is that the tuners that are capable on this hardware are limited. It was developed by Ray Hall in Austrailia and was previously involved with Autronic and MoTec. Here is a link to the specs:
http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/V88.html
It can do everything all the other main stand alones can do and usually more. It controls the drive-by-wire, so I retain the stock Nissan pedal. I can shift maps with an external trigger on the fly, so I was able to swap from low boost to high boost by arming the meth system (could do it while driving). It controls the fans on the LS so they will run after I shut the car off to a specific coolant temp (the LS using crank sensor, so if car isn't running neither are the fans). Flat shift - check, launch control - check, traction control - check. They are constantly updating the software to make inprovements for racers.
Right now I believe there have only been 3 of us using this, Gord (SylvanLake), the guy the did the Nissan V8 swap, and myself. The main reason more aren't using it is largely a function of the large shops having already migrated towards a specific ECU that they prefer for F/I applications.
Forged - Dynosty - GTM = Haltech and UpRev
SP - Intense = Pro EFI
Vinnie Ten - Hydra
Z1 = Not Sure
All of these shops are capable of tuning this ECU, they just prefer what they know. Franz is Mr. ViPEC in the US, he is the best and most knowledgeable on how to hook things up make all systems communicate. He will eventually teach me how to read my own maps and tables so I can monitor and tweak things as needed. This LS was a learning process for both of us, but I have a custom 3 piece professional harness that has no extra wire, will hold up like stock. I also will have a stock tach and AC controls. The ViPec will be able to handle any mods that come down the road later, be that NO2 or SC with zero issues.
/ sales pitch
I am running the ViPEC V88, IMO it the best ECU on the market for the money. It will do almost everything a MoTec will do for a fraction of the price. The ONLY downside is that the tuners that are capable on this hardware are limited. It was developed by Ray Hall in Austrailia and was previously involved with Autronic and MoTec. Here is a link to the specs:
http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/V88.html
It can do everything all the other main stand alones can do and usually more. It controls the drive-by-wire, so I retain the stock Nissan pedal. I can shift maps with an external trigger on the fly, so I was able to swap from low boost to high boost by arming the meth system (could do it while driving). It controls the fans on the LS so they will run after I shut the car off to a specific coolant temp (the LS using crank sensor, so if car isn't running neither are the fans). Flat shift - check, launch control - check, traction control - check. They are constantly updating the software to make inprovements for racers.
Right now I believe there have only been 3 of us using this, Gord (SylvanLake), the guy the did the Nissan V8 swap, and myself. The main reason more aren't using it is largely a function of the large shops having already migrated towards a specific ECU that they prefer for F/I applications.
Forged - Dynosty - GTM = Haltech and UpRev
SP - Intense = Pro EFI
Vinnie Ten - Hydra
Z1 = Not Sure
All of these shops are capable of tuning this ECU, they just prefer what they know. Franz is Mr. ViPEC in the US, he is the best and most knowledgeable on how to hook things up make all systems communicate. He will eventually teach me how to read my own maps and tables so I can monitor and tweak things as needed. This LS was a learning process for both of us, but I have a custom 3 piece professional harness that has no extra wire, will hold up like stock. I also will have a stock tach and AC controls. The ViPec will be able to handle any mods that come down the road later, be that NO2 or SC with zero issues.
/ sales pitch
Standalone's are the way to go in my opinion. I'm glad you found out the main problem! I would still consider having Franz check if the negative battery cable gets warm as it is only 6 gauge wire and your engine now requires 33% more ignition being a V8. After seeing how warm mine got I am starting to wonder if a grounding upgrade is something that should be part of an LS swap.
Or it may just be my high compression motor and the load it puts on the electronics. Still curious though.
Or it may just be my high compression motor and the load it puts on the electronics. Still curious though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4-ho...er_profilepage
Functional stock Nissan Tach bishes!!!
With my baller Acree LED Mod!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tkmda...yer_detailpage
Functional stock Nissan Tach bishes!!!
With my baller Acree LED Mod!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tkmda...yer_detailpage
:icon 31:
:jaw drop: