Mandee (my wife) and I just seriously LOL'ed

 

I thought when I looked into this that you had to pin the crank and run a dedicated belt off the front of the crank. If that is the case, there is no room for that to happen. Also, would you have to swap to Vette accessories for things to run correctly?

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1593.pdf
See page 16 and according to their belt routing diagram there is no AC.


The Maggie is very similar to the E-force and it has applications specific to the GTO dropouts. I want something I can bolt-on, have my tuner remote log in to my ECU to base map it and then drive down for a tune.

 

Thank You... I'll be here all week

 

If you end up needing Vette accessories let me know Cass. I have a Vett LS2 and I'm switching my beltline to a GTO style to make room for the intake. The Vett alt location is directly in the freaking way. The SC may reroute the intake so it won't be a problem but I'm not familar with the one you're talking about.

 

Thanks... Vas may be the one interested. I'm not changing shizz, if it doesn't bolt right to what I have, I don't want it. The E-force ***** the intake off to the pass side a bit, but it is still a front load. Sadly, the beast of all SCs, Keene Bell, was discontinued for the GTOs and LS2s because of lack of clearance for the hood and firewall issues... a problem we don't have

 

If you run any form of supercharger you should pin the crank or you may end up with some big problems. My aftermarket crank is keyed which is nice.

 

in reference to the shifter....what is the difference between the sikky shifter and the billet products shifter that Snyper used for his hinson swap kit? Here is the link to the one i think he used (looks the same) http://www.billetproducts.com.au/lumina1.html . These horrer stories about notchy shifters makes me want to sit back and think more about this swap

 

That particular shifter looks like it will not have enough offset for the Sikky motor mounts, so the big difference is the length. It may also have a different linkage ratio to that effects how long the throw would be. Without details it's tough to say though.

 

I would go with the maggie 2300 or 1200 they are going bolt on and have the best clearances. Also the vortech/pro charger kits will work as well you just need slim fans for the RAD.

 

The shifter isn't perfect, but is far from a horror story. The dirty little secret nobody talks about is that the more you modify the Z/G and or higher whp you push, the less fun and streetable it becomes. Drive a highly modified Z/G and you will see what I mean.

Isn't it always

I would think the 2300 so I have room to make more power. Vortec/Procharger are out IMO, it would be hella tight to mount the unit and still have enough room on the opposite side for the intake and the coolant overflow. I already have the slim fans too.

 

looks like the 2300 will do. I have found a guy selling a used maggy chris... tempting.. anyone want a good deal on a FAST 102mm manifold, fast fuel rails and fast 50lb inj? haha.... aghh.

 

Where the heck did you find a 2300 you turd iv been searching for months!!!!!!! Im really thinking of Hal's single turbo kit HURMMMMMMMMM

 

Pm or text me a link. I may be selling my business soon and may want another project.

 

Fueled kit uses the stock gto shifter!

 

where can i find information about this fueled racing kit? I went to their website but only found information on the 240sx kits.

 

^^^^ They have not updated their site but the prices are the same as the 240sx kits.

 

I am so glad it all worked out man. Nice job on the whole build. Glad you can finally enjoy the car! Congrats man, and enjoy!

 

Thanks Ashton... hope the same for you!!

 

Got the car up on a lift today at Hill's. Went over all the nuts and bolts to make sure everything was tight. Found a small spot on the pass side header that was rubbing the frame and fixed that.

Found one concerning issue... the Cusco sway has made occasional contact with the front of the oil pan and rubbed a small spot in the side beads . My car is lowered all the way on the coilovers, so that may be the issue. I may have a blown shock up front as well, so that may be a contributing factor. We moved the sway to the rear holes (softer setting) and will see if that fixes it. If not, I may need to bring the ride height up or get a different sway. Frank suggested shorter end-links to restrict travel as well, but I'm not sure where to get those.

Found a small exhaust leak and also realized that JE butchered my APS exhaust. They cut the stock flanges off and put different ones on, which is NOT what I wanted. Now the exhaust is ruined if I ever want to resell it... THANKS SO MUCH BTW, the exhaust is leaking from their flange welds.

I also partially destroyed one of the V-band clamps at the header. Must have scraped it on something. The price of being low and baller I suppose.

Frank put my Zspeed underpan on, fits great and the cut out still lines up with the oil drain. Allows access to where my filter is as well. Down side was that they didn't debur it one bit and it will cut you to shreds if you don't handle it carefully.

The good news... Frank and I bled the old clutch fluid out and refilled with Motul and the clutch is MUCH improved in terms of pedal feel and softness. He also adjusted the pedal engagement down a touch from the very top.

About 800 miles since I brought it home and still loving it

 

There are alot of threads about the clutch issue on vettes and goats on the LS forums and google. My buddy that has a GTO and he has to flush the clutch fluid or suck it out the top every six months. Clutch dust migrates thru the seals and contaminates the clutch fluid.