Ryan is awesome. Had my pedal for about 4 days. I have adjusted it several times.

I am set to 75%

I can shift into all the gears as smoothly as before (I think). And when the clutch pedal is released it is NOT pushing up against (being blocked by) the top switch.

When the clutch is fully depressed I can rev the engine without the car moving (which tells me that the clutch is completely disengaged)

I am a little nervous because the disengage point for the clutch starts when the pedal is depressed 75% down to the floor. Is this too low? I like how it feels, just paranoid because the car is new so Im not too used to how it feels.

Any advice?

 

If you're happy with how its set and getting full disengagement by 75% then I'd say you're golden. Asumming you have about a 4" pedal stroke then your friction point should be about 1" up from the floor which is perfect. I don't recomend a friction point any lower then 3/4" from the stops to ensure a complete disengagement which you've already verified.

Enjoy

 

Great thanks alot

I recommend this product to pretty much anyone with a G or Z but especially to anyone new to manual. I've had my Z for about a month now and I still hadn't gotten a smooth start from a stop (1st gear). After 4 days with this clutch system I am way smoother. My passengers dont head bob anymore haha.

 

Currently are you out of stock as your website implies?? Let me know, Thanks!

 

foreverdr1ft
Yes, I completely sold out of the 350Z kits last week but my laser cutting supplier is currently working to get me the raw components to build another 20 kits for next week. I had a spectacular run on 350Z kits right at the end of September which caught me short on kits for the first weeks of October.

If you or anyone else wants to place a pre-order through the website then your order will be added to the list of customers who've already pre-ordered kits from next weeks new batch of 20.

All pre-ordered kits will be fabricated and shipped as first priority before any remaining kits are built and posted for stock on the website.

I currently have pre-orders for 6 out of the next 20 this weekend.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

RJM! I leased a 2012 G37 Sedan 6MT for 18 months only, and although I have learned and adapted to my clutch without issues ( I used to own an 06 6MT G Coupe), and I can drive very smoothly with no problems, no matter what I tell myself, I know that I shouldnt have to "think" that hard to drive a manual smoothly...

When my lease is up...I will be jumping into a 2014 G37 Sedan 6MT, you know, the new generation model...

So my question to you sir, is the following :

Will you be designing this beautiful piece for the next gen G cars? Because Im sure Nissan was not working with YOU on designing their upcoming clutch assembly, so big chances are, the clutch action is going to remain the same on the new G as the current V36....

Please tell me you will be continuing your clutch empire!

 

06Gcoupin,

Yes indeed. As soon as they're released and I can get a look at one I'll be starting development on kits for the 2014's as well. I would agree it's pretty unlikely they'd feel any different then the current generation of G37's and 370Z's.
I'm not sure if they'll redesign their current pedal system for the 2014's or not. If the drivetain and transmissions remain generally unchanged then they may not update the clutch system allowing the current G37 & 370Z AFP Pedal design to fit them as well.

Also anyone waiting on 350Z or G35 kits I've received all the parts to begin fabricating more kits this weekend and will have kits ready to begin shipping out Monday morning for everyone.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

You by any chance going to make it for RHD models?

 

Drayvn, Unfortunately I don't currently have plans to make a version for the RHD 350Z. It's been discussed several times but aside from a small handful of people such as yourself who've contacted me there really hasn't been enough interest generated to do the R&D for a RHD version.

Back last year a couple of Australian guys has tried to run a group buy to generate interest and I'd agreed to put in the development time if we could get just 20 people to take part. I think at last count there was only 4 people interested

However if enough interest is shown in the future then I'd be happy to start work on a RHD version. Anyone interested can contact me here via PM or email me from the website.

 

Would they be any different?

 

Yes, they are 110% completely different and they don't look anything like our left hand version. In our North American cars with LH steering wheel the steering shaft passes straight down thru the firewall leaving a good deal of room around it for the brake and clutch pedal brackets. After reviewing detailed photos of the Right Hand setup it appears that the steering shaft passes thru the firewall at an angle and off set towards the left side of the car so both the brake and clutch pedal brackets are oddly shaped to work around the steering shaft.

It would be a completely new bracket and pedal design to make something work for the RHD cars and not having access to a car for fitting and testing makes it that much more difficult.

 

My only issue to date is an odd one which probably won't affect anybody else. Without the 'spring assist' the pedal will sometimes 'bounce' a bit on the top switch on hard launching which confuses my 2-step module. I've tried adjusting the switch, pedal, everything... can't seem to get a clean signal from the switch on hard launching. Other than that, it's holding up really well after the re-lube of all the moving parts.

 

djamps, Good to hear everything is going well other then the switch bounce. For the switch bounce on your 2-step I may have a solution for you to try out. I'll PM you this evening with more details when I get home

 

Interesting, i never got to see a 350 when i was in the UK, but i would imagine there would be less call for this over there anyway. I do not have trouble with the clutch, it feels like pretty much any other clutch IMO.
I think this mod will probably make it smoother, but i will also guess most RHD car drivers won't be having the same issues (manual trans is predominant over there)

 

Ok I have an issue that seems to keep popping up after I had installed the pedal system. In the mornings it is extremely difficult to get it to go into any gear when I have the clutch fully depressed.

 

Diesel350, how low is the friction point set? Sounds like it could be two things. First ensure the upper cruise switch or upper stop bolt isn't holding the pedal down at all. Second I would suggest going back to the install guide and follow the friction point setup while the car is cold. If the cold friction point is less then 3/4" to 1" up from the floor it won't pass the tests for complete disengagement per the guide.

Go back and check out those two items and let me know how it goes.

Ryan

 

Not sure how low the friction point is set, I will have to check and get back with you.


Below is the view where the pedal shows it is not being held by the stop bolt. Also, another thing is that the pedal feels loose, I can move it around with my hand easily, is this normal?

 

For the friction point I would start by adjusting the clutch rod 1 full turn clockwise while facing the firewall to raise the fulcrum point some.

For the pedal being loose it looks like the fulcrum nut is barely engaged. The fulcrum bolt should be rotated until the flats on the bolt line up with the flats in the bracket so that the bolt can push down fully. Once the bolt is fully thru you should have threads sticking out of the lock nut. Next tighten the lock nut down until the loose play is just gone but the pedal can still move freely without the bushings getting pinched

 

I have mine set to start grabbing pretty close off the floor. If it's a little cold out, and the idle stays high before I take off it grabs even closer to the floor. Perhaps you should move the engagement point up a bit?

I also had an issue with my engagement point wandering a great deal and not going into gear after installing the pedal. Replacing the slave cylinder and bleeding the system solved this issue for me. Mine is an 07, so it has the concentric slave cylinder that is prone to failure. If yours is an earlier model it's less likely to be a problem, and certainly easier to replace if it is.

 

Thanks, that worked. Now it shifts smooth as butta.