I've tried using the search function so please don't troll me

My zed has had 5 clutches, including OEM, in this order:

- OEM
- JWT + FLYWHEEL (ONE YEAR)
- EXEDY STAGE 1 (lasted 1 MONTH)

CHANGED STICKY MASTER CYLINDER

- ACT SuperStreet HDSS (01/13 - 06/14)
- ACT HD-G6 (only changed the disc) (06/14 - current)

_____

The current HDG6 is working at the moment no slip, but the release bearing (as it was not changed) is playing up and sometimes the clutch does not fully disengage. If the 'box is to come out then I will change the complete kit to a twin plate.

It needs to support fast street and track driving, and before you ask, driven with mechanical sympathy and no holding clutch pedal while driving. Can someone recommend a clutch that will last more then a few K miles. Power is about 455rwhp / 400lb/ft.

Thanks

 

rps twin carbon drives really well and rated to handle 750 wtq; might only be able to obtain from Dynosty... I've had no trouble at 800+ whp / 700 wtq

 

Thanks for the response rcdash, will take a look… Not sure if that's a bit excessive for my setup. Tried to keep the clutch OEM feeling, but that hasn't exactly worked out for me so far!

How many miles you run in with that clutch so far? - What fly do you run?

 

look at southbend's full face race clutches. They have some very streetable 600tq clutches.

 

OS Giken has an awesome multiplate that is very friendly

 

Can you provide more details please - Do you run it? how long for and how much power?

 

I personally installed an OS Giken triple in a single turbo Supra making over 900 whp. That was 4 years ago. He hasn't come back for a replacement yet. Pedal was not stock feeling though. Shifted fine, not a lot of effort once moving. Hard to get going from a stop without stalling it or chirping the tires a little though.

 

The stock clutch will not last long at those power levels and neither will the exedy stage 1 as you are way over their power limits, The JWT may last a while at those levels, The ACT should have lasted but is only rated at 455tq which at the crank you are probably exceeding this limit, With hard driving it would probably wear out sooner than expected.

Since you are having release issues also I would suspect there is something else leading to the clutch failures, Either driving style or there is an issue with the release system causing the clutch to slip and overheat which will lead to its demise., Could be adjustment, sticking release sleeve etc causing the clutch to stay partially released all the time.

You should have at least 15-20% head room with any clutch esp if it is driven hard all the time. You will need a kit rated into the 600hp/tq range which leaves you with going into a puck style disk or a twin disk clutch. Pucks do not typically have a long life span but will hold the power you need to hold.

I would look into a South Bend Stage 3 Drag kit or an OS Giken twin plate. The GT2 is a decent driving kit (for a twin) and will hold your power without issue. For a bit more power holding I would get into the STR series kit, This will drive more aggressive than the GT2 but will hold more power.

I can help you with either of these kits, Just need to know what year your car is.

 

Thanks

Don't think there is an issue with clutch engagement (until now, clutch release bearing), but will have this checked out.

One of the clutches on my short list is the OS Giken Twin plate.

Can you explain why one would choose 'hard' or 'soft' cover options. I'd like to keep the feel as OEM as possible but it's more important to me now that the clutch holds the power, does not slip and actually lasts longer then a few thousand miles.

 

Hard cover has more clamp load for higher holding power but = a stiffer pedal. Clutch life is totally dependent on use, Unless you are under clutched, then it will wear out faster regardless. OS are very durable.

 

My flame suit is on here, but here are some thoughts:

My Z32TT with some decent power is still running the same clutch for over 100k miles worth of violent abuse.

Two potentially important things to keep in mind:

• Make sure the rear main seal isn't misting blowby onto the clutch components.
  
• Make sure there are no contaminants present on any clutch surfaces. If oil or grease gets on the clutch surface, it can soak into the material and it will be perminantly compromised. Even a small amount will eventually contaminate the flywheel or PP surface, and then smear into the clutch materials. I suggest doing the install yourself, so you can excersize extreme caution here. Some people JDGAF, and hold the disk with their greasy fingers, or touch the flywheel surface without scrubing it with brake cleaner.