Gold Heat Wrap conversation..
Gold Heat Wrap conversation..
So who all has used it?
Worth it?
N/A-FI did it make a difderence in IATs?
Best way to keep the oem intake manifold from getting scolding hot?
Worth it?
N/A-FI did it make a difderence in IATs?
Best way to keep the oem intake manifold from getting scolding hot?
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 129
Likes: 24
From: Redmond, WA
This thread is talking about exhaust wrap instead of gold foil, but here is what Tony from Motordyne had to say:
TL;DR - It'll keep temps down when you're sitting at idle, but won't a much difference once you've been on the move for a few seconds.
TL;DR - It'll keep temps down when you're sitting at idle, but won't a much difference once you've been on the move for a few seconds.
Wrap on the intake has limited effect but it does make a difference for some applications.
I have it on my car because I have to.
I've noticed while on the dyno the intake temps increased over time. I found it was due to heating of the MAF housing and the back side of the stock air box.
At idle, between dyno pulls, the radiant heat would increase air intake temperatures by ~20'F. 20'F is a lot! It would heat up the entire intake tract and MAF sensor. And when I did the dyno pull, it would take several seconds for the MAF sensor to cool down... but by then it was too late.
The ECU adjusts spark timing based on air intake temperature. Consequently HP is directly affected by timing AND air temperature (IE air density).
And this was all because of heat soak between dyno pulls. It would cause dyno results to go down by 5-10 HP as the air intake system became heat soaked.
For the purposes of R&D dyno testing of air intake and exhaust modifications, the heat soak would throw off the accuracy of pre/post dyno testing, so I simply had to eliminate the heat soak.
I wraped the air intake and it helped stabilize temperatures and dyno results quite a bit.
It was exactly what I needed.
On the road, it won't make too much of a difference for continuous driving but it will help at the 1/4 mile track or any situation where you need to sit at idle for a length of time before launching.
I have it on my car because I have to.
I've noticed while on the dyno the intake temps increased over time. I found it was due to heating of the MAF housing and the back side of the stock air box.
At idle, between dyno pulls, the radiant heat would increase air intake temperatures by ~20'F. 20'F is a lot! It would heat up the entire intake tract and MAF sensor. And when I did the dyno pull, it would take several seconds for the MAF sensor to cool down... but by then it was too late.
The ECU adjusts spark timing based on air intake temperature. Consequently HP is directly affected by timing AND air temperature (IE air density).
And this was all because of heat soak between dyno pulls. It would cause dyno results to go down by 5-10 HP as the air intake system became heat soaked.
For the purposes of R&D dyno testing of air intake and exhaust modifications, the heat soak would throw off the accuracy of pre/post dyno testing, so I simply had to eliminate the heat soak.
I wraped the air intake and it helped stabilize temperatures and dyno results quite a bit.
It was exactly what I needed.
On the road, it won't make too much of a difference for continuous driving but it will help at the 1/4 mile track or any situation where you need to sit at idle for a length of time before launching.
Last edited by SpartaEvolution; Aug 10, 2018 at 09:26 AM.
I've found that foil-backed fiberglass insulation works best for wrapping intake pipes. I do have gold tape on my intake but I dont think it's nearly as effective as foil-backed fiberglass insulation.
I dont run a MAF but I did mybest to wrap around my IAT sensor...
Just my 2cents...
I dont run a MAF but I did mybest to wrap around my IAT sensor...
Just my 2cents...
The gold foil wrap (non fiberglass backed) only works on 1 of the 3 types of heat transfer. It is most effective on radiant heat from say a glowing red turbo or header, whereas it has less or little effect on conduction and convection heating of the intake.
So what would you guys reccomend then?
http://designengineering.com/cool-ta...flective-tape/
http://designengineering.com/reflect...flective-tape/
http://designengineering.com/cool-ta...flective-tape/
http://designengineering.com/reflect...flective-tape/
just my 2cents - I dont think any insulation on the market is going to keep the manifold cool / cold if without venting your hood.
Consider your engine bay an oven with two heating elements called headers ... You can't insulate the plenum/manifold against 200-300 degree temps but for only a few minutes ... at some point the heat soak will overcome any insulation and thus heat your intake.
As sparco mentioned, and I would agree, gold tape is beneficial for radiant heat and wont do much against any types of heat transfer ...
Consider your engine bay an oven with two heating elements called headers ... You can't insulate the plenum/manifold against 200-300 degree temps but for only a few minutes ... at some point the heat soak will overcome any insulation and thus heat your intake.
As sparco mentioned, and I would agree, gold tape is beneficial for radiant heat and wont do much against any types of heat transfer ...
Trending Topics
Well since i have forgotten my hood pins several times and has resulted in a dcked up Carbon Fiber hood. Vents are on the list of things to do.
Last edited by Conway_160; Aug 11, 2018 at 08:13 PM.
New Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 709
Likes: 122
From: Ontario
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post