My near-ish finished engine (na built) is back in the chassis, and I decided to do a few bits of tidying (pathfinder coolant mod, oil warmer removal etc).
I had been reading some useful but pretty old threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ss-line-4.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...r-removal.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...inder-mod.html

I got slightly confused at the coolant bypass delete, whether it was ok or not to run the car without this hose?
The consensus from several threads seemed to be that most of this crud is there for faster warm up times due to emission testing.

My car is only used for track days, fun drives etc.


Number 3 on this image:

 

Why take the warmer/cooler off? Oil needs to get hotter than coolant which is why it's there. As far as that hose, it doesn't look like it's bypassing anything, I'd think you are ok not running it.

 

In short, I don't need it . (check the 2nd link if you really want, as that question had come up plenty of times)
I have an oil cooler for track work, no problems with oil temps.
That part was subsequently removed on the HR btw.

 

I'll check the link but there is a reason the HR has more cooling issues than the DE lol. There IS a detriment to running oil too cool and if you aren't boosted chances are you don't need a cooler. Most people doing all of these things have almost no mechanical knowledge nor do they ever bother buying an oil temp sensor to monitor oil temps.

 

I appreciate your concerns but just so you know I've been running a thermostatic oil cooler for 3 years, and 2 temp sensors
I've also built the engine myself, aside from the block machining and headwork. No I'm not a professional, nor a complete tool but I hear what you're saying (because most people haven't bothered to read).

But if we may, on that bypass pipe.
That pipe bypasses the rad inlet, so it's just pumping hot water back into system from what I can see. And from what QuadCam was stating, it's down to cold start emissions most likely.
I know plenty of people have seemingly deleted that pipe, and several other things so I just wanted to see if they had issues. I know that the guy who runs 350Z247 on youtube had to add a pipe back from the rear hard-line to the side of the block on his blanking plate but he's deleted a lot more than I have at this point (as his is track only).
My car isn't a daily, nor used for short trips so I'm not worried about time to heat up nor emission testing stuff as Nissan did originally.

 

What's your average oil temps if you don't mind me asking? People read I feel but it's much like how everyone bashes the Kinetix manifold cause the initial one sucked. I know the reasoning for wanting to remove it and I went through all 18 pages of that thread yet nobody posted any actual meaningful info like actual numbers. I'm detail oriented as I wrench for a living, the HR "doesn't need it" because the cooling system is better, yet they run hotter oil temps due to the lack of the cooler. I'm not concerned about the high temps more about low temps, you want to get the oil hot asap and on average it works better when it's constantly over 200 degrees, if your sandwich adapter opens at 185 you are going to have to be driving really hard to get 200+ I would think. The emissions thing is a non issue IMO, but back to the coolant side of things I really don't see an issue with deleting all the smaller hoses, you should be good there, you plan on welding them shut?

 

Oh and BTW, that thing I said wasn't aimed towards you so don't take it like that. I know you work on your own stuff from your previous posts, it's more so a generalized statement because a lot of stuff gets passed around or misinterpreted on the internet without any actual hard evidence. I actually considered removing it myself as I'll be boosted but I truly believe it has more pros than cons, I don't really think I'll need a cooler either as I'll be running the Central 20 oil pan, a larger radiator and pathfinder mod with factory cooler. I'll do some testing when the time comes.

 

Agreed, I also have a Kinetix intake manifold (it 100% extends power past the old drop off point if the rest of the engine is matched).
In regards to the numbers, like you say we want the oil to be at a certain temp range to be optimal (inc pressure) when it's under load at least.
Once it's back together I'll be able to see how long it takes to get up-to-temp.

So the car has been out of action since Oct 2019 !
The last track day I did, I'm fairly sure my temps were typically around 215-220, bear in mind that was driving with some heavily ruined main bearings too! (unknown until I pulled it and took it apart, there will be a full post on the whole thing)

For now I'll use the silicone bungs (not rubber), as finding a welder over here isn't easy (we're still in lockdown too). These have worked fine in the past for me btw, plus if it does cause an issue I can hook up the old piping.
A large part of getting rid of this stuff makes it a lot easier to work on (same as a wire tuck), if it doesn't affect the oil/coolant temps/pressure in a negative way, it's a win for me. Also having the coolant do less seems like a good logic for my uses.

All cool man, I realised what you meant too (which is why I put the links up for the curious readers)
BTW, I had considered an oil pan like that but I opted to go for depth than width (spacer plus cooler).
When cornering hard I was concerned about oil starvation (granted it's got fixed baffles in there).

 

It's actually deeper and wider, then has the baffles.
It has a spacer to drop the pickup like the spacers, but I think it's not as deep as a spacer.
Totally understand wanting to make the car easier to work on, those oil temps are about right where you need them to be.