lol im pretty dumb. Even as electrician, schools super easy here, may learn more and study. But ive never done service just a bunch of new commercial construction. And i barely understand electricity. I just know how to bend some pipe, or maybe wire a house etc.. they spliced into some kind of power under steering wheel for radar detector. connection was already lost and radar detector didnt work that good anyways. but still curious if thats okay i have a live low voltage wire sticking out down there.

srsly though after already receiving link for correct battery tie down, and having local friends that might could help, I think i really only need to know the size of that nut on the positive terminal. I might even be able to buy some random ones and try them

 

Remove that shiny nut and toss it. It's not doing anything. You don't need another nut there. Get a new positive terminal from the dealer. Yours is loose. You need a 10mm wrench to get it off the battery and a 12mm wrench to remove it from the fusible link. The thread size should be 8x1.25. You don't really need to know that though. That thing between the throttle body and the intake is an intake spacer. Snake oil. You can leave it or remove it. It's not hurting anything

 

I was being facetious, nothing negative directed at you. Meant for the dudes responding.

 

wow thanks u all are pretty awesome. ill be trying to figure out how to get that terminal asap. edit: got one from z1 just because they shipped quick last time. and i dont have to do anything or drive to get it. you still helped me know i need more oem because i was looking at ones on autozone. it claimed they fit, but looked diff. pic below





im pretty worried about riding like this for 2 -2.5months and hope the ball joints or some other crazy thing doesnt break or get worse and its just my 5 year old tires that suffer lol. it clangs so big in front over speed bump and dude at shop said it was simply me out of camber.


That seriously is terrifying its about to be sunny hot days in cars outside w no ac and windows closed. and last time my battery didnt work, the passenger door was locked, and you could not manually unlock it even with some force on toggle. the driver door i have to open from outside and windows were already up and stuck up. I didnt have anything sharp or any water. If i had nobody to call or around for me, that wouldve been brutal trying to kick my side windows out before i die in it.

 

I would not let that dude tune a guitar.

Am I the only one that sees a problem with this statement?

 

lol i guess you wouldnt want the positive terminal to ground but thats what he said. I thought maybe he meant contact or something idk

edit:
since youre in here answering all my questions so good heel til i die, what do you think of this? My biggest concern right now, is that this doesnt add up to me. The last shop w wild dude that looked at it, said my suspension looks fine. the shop that installed bilstein b12 that got rid of bottoming out issue was good. Yet, i clang so bad in the front over a speed bump or bumpy road. it also feels less tight in front and wonky when that happens. rears tires are in just as messed up camber. So why does the rear feel so tight and not clang?? The guy at last shop said that it was because i was stressing the ball joints and my shocks and all riding out of camber w out the arms. Yet, i think its something else. and im worried about riding like this next 25 days until i get it in for trans, and tell them to look at it.

 

I'm not really sure what's going on with this "bottoming out" issue. Initially, when you posted about this, I figured the shocks were blown and maybe spring sag (?). Or, the previous owner put in some garbage suspension components. BUT, if that was the case, then the B12 pro kit should have fixed those issues. It's possible that the previous cheap-o suspension put added strain on the other components/bushings, or whatever, damaging them which is still causing you to dip too low.

Or, your Z is not actually "bottoming out." I'm not really sure what this means anyway. Is the underside actually contacting the ground? Do you see scrape marks on any cross bars? Are your upper control arms, transverse link, tie rods, etc. connected and torqued down properly or are they banging around? Is the bottoming out noise your wheels rubbing the fenders or fender liners? I can't really tell from your earlier pictures if you're running some obscene amount of negative or positive camber.

Or, it could just be that your Z is low and you'll need to accept the fact that you're going to scrape the front lip whenever you go over a speed bump straight on and not at an angle. How big are these bumps on the bumpy road? I'm not slammed or anything, but I might get stuck on a mean speed bump unless I go over it at an angle at about half a mile an hour.

 

Front lower control arm inner bushings. They're probably toast, causing the arms to shift forward and backwards. Common failure.

 

Thanks as usual, its not bottoming out anymore. The b12 kit did fix the issue. Before it was scraping (sounded like fenders and maybe something else). Now, after the b12 kit it has a different issue. I am running pretty bad negative camber now, but not as bad as some people who do it on purpose. But over a simple speed bump at a very low speed, the front maybe bounces a little extra and makes a bad sounding metal clank. It also does this over smaller bumps at speed, like an interstate with cracks in it. Definitely, not scraping the ground. Maybe on rare occasion unintentionally but thats not the problem. Its just strange its only in front. I hope it doesnt damage anything important, or let me know if you think i should order another part that may be damaged, with my arms im getting when i can.

thanks ia8cobra youre probably right. That would make sense why its in the front, maybe the rear bushings are ok.

im after the two arms for front, and the rear grip kit by fdfraceworks. I plan on ordering in about a month. they take two weeks to build. I guess the shop can tell me, but i hope thats all i will need to replace for it to be perfect. Clanging freaks me out, it sounds bad.

 

I probably would have just sprung for the Z1 adjustable suspension kit which comes with FUCAs and rear camber and traction arms.

I've replaced all the front with poly bushings from Energy Suspension. Not the easiest job and a shop press makes it doable. Take a look underneath and see if the lower control arm inner bushing or transverse link (as Nissan calls it) looks like this:

 

Well, I still havent ordered arms. I just emailed fdfraceworks after reading good things, and they helped me pick what is best for road racing. It is a little pricey in my situation, but I was hoping to just change them once, and have some really nice parts. The rear grip kit relocates the knuckles of the control arms, and looks complicated. I did talk to the most "race" shop we have down here that does the specialty alignments, and they said they could definitely install it and align it. I may change my mind and get another brand. I really was hoping to get the best though, and act like price isnt an issue; even if it delays me a few weeks.

Im going to look up what that bushing is, because i dont know what im looking at in your picture. Here is some photos of mine. I noticed that plastic spring shaped thing, is compressed on driver side in last photo.. Im kind of flat, but passenger side slightly parked uphill





the last two are driver side first two passenger

 

Your front suspension bushings are done and your lower ball joints don't look too good either.





If you're getting new upper control arms, those should come with bushings. You just need to get some new ball joints, transverse link (lower control arm) bushings, and compression rod bushings. I would have hoped that the suspension shop that put in your B12 kit would have said something about the lower shock bushings on the transverse link if those were shot, but they didn't tell you about anything else, so I would replace those, too.

However, I think the first priority should be to fix your door handle/lock problem so you don't die from heat exhaustion like some poor dog or child left in the car on a hot summer day by some negligent parent on a quick trip to Walmart.

 

Here is the bushing kit from Z1

 

Okay awesome thank you. I asked fdf raceshop, and did plan on getting two arms for front. One is called "front adjustable control arms". (says includes lower control arms and radius arms) other is called "upper control arms".

So im assuming i still need new ball joints and compression rod bushings. Would the transverse link bushings be included with the "front adjustable control arms"? Im hoping i can get it all done at once. I may take pics of rear, even though it feels fine.

Yes, need door handle fixed.. I may wait on it though! as of today i have all battery supplies, so will try to make sure its connected properly and tied down, myself. Then i will always keep my phone charged and on me, until i get it fixed. I wish i could fix it myself but may leave it to shop.

 

Sounds like the "front adjustable control arms" are the transverse link and compression rod, but I don't know for sure. Probably need to ask them. While you're at it, ask them if new bushings already come pressed in and installed.

The front upper control arms or FUCAs should have bushings pre-installed as well, but I would double check on that.

I've never heard of this "FDF Raceshop" outfit. I googled it. It looks like they're out of Canada. Their arms use helm joints with solid machined spherical bushings. That's likely going to be a lot of overkill for you and increase the NVH (noise, vibration, harshness)in the suspension. It will be a lot firmer and minimal flex, but at a price for comfort. They look pretty overpriced, too, but I know you got money to blow.

 

 

lol! Man its difficult because i dont want to shake the body of the car to death when its on street. I also dont want to underdo it, and not be firm enough. I really do want to take this car off the street after about 45k more miles. Unless i decide to never track, and just go wild. I guess i could get something else for now, and change to fdf, once it gets serious.

If you wanted the best performance despite cost, and you wanted a car to go over bumpy roads sometimes (dont care about comfort really, more worried about actual car getting shaken too much), would the z1 arms still be what you choose? I was unsure about the solid arms too. It seems like suspension is something i would want solid. I got vibratechnics motor mounts already (track/street). not track only ones. And i planned on buying the z1 urethane trans mount, with my purchase of ball joints and stuff from them very soon.

and sorry guys you all really are helping me and im listening. i did already buy irp v3 short shifter though. apparentally it comes with its own dust boot, so i shouldnt need anything extra with it. the stock one, i needed a few diff parts to replace full thing. It was going to cost near same amount, and just didnt seem as nice. I hope they can properly align the gears, it comes with no instructions and you can apparentally align 5th and 6th.


ohh and i still like that shop, but they did not tell me about the bushings. in their defense they seemed worried about my suspension after installing. They told me to do the arms i told them about asap. They did freak out about tires rubbing and told me to get lower profile tires, when the tire shop realized it was just a spacer needing removal.

 

Bro just bring your car and have them toss it on a lift to look at your concerns then have them do and alignment and corner balancing. Stop going to that shop with the sketch supra dude, etc.

 

ohh that was a random shop. they were rated high too but budget friendly, in a more poor area closer to me. I was just curious and figured they couldnt mess up a diagnosis too bad lol. They said my suspension was fine except my angle, and my control arms i said i was getting would fix it. which is stupid cuz apparentally i need more parts. And supra dude was sketchy so i wont go back. my transmission is sitting at another shop waiting on me.

The only problem with that is until i buy or finance another car, I have to rent everytime its in shop. summer rental prices went up. So im attempting to buy all the right parts and have them install/look at it, and see if it needs anything else. I already tried it with supra dude and dont want to waste money on diagnosis and waiting on parts/ more car rentals. you all are helping but i understand if this is not enjoyable, and you want to just stop helping lol. I still dont feel like im getting everything but still know more from you all. Im looking at shock mount bushings, and shock absorber bushings. Not sure if thats something else i need, or included with this other stuff. Hopefully when installed, i will be told if missing anything.


My credits going up from this loan, and im noticing theres some other more decent loan companies the parts websites work with, with less risky terms. I know you all hate loans but i may get them one at a time right now. I did trans first when i should have done it last, it was user error on first drive w shifter.. But i still want the best parts, and hopefully all the parts when i do suspension. I want a proffessional, stiffer than normal setup, but maybe a little shock absorption.

 

If money were no object, then I would get the SPL titanium FUCAs or the Nismo FUCAs. Both are over a thousand for the pair. They have solid spherical bushings, but my Z is not my daily and I don't drive over bumpy roads.

I currently have the Z1 FUCAs with poly bushings and, as mentioned before, I replaced all the front suspension bushings with the energy poly. I like it. Firmer than OEM but still comfortable. It would be fine on a track.

With most adjustable FUCAs, you have to uninstall it to make changes as part of the alignment. Some "toe and go" chain alignment shop is not going to touch it. You WILL need to take it to a specialty shop to get it aligned properly. I took mine to a shop that track preps cars for VIR.