Also my dude, I know you want to buy the most expensive parts, but you keep taking it to the cheapest shops to do the work. Take the expensive parts to an expensive shop and get everything done right.

 

good to know! Man i still dont know if i should get solid since it will def see bumpy roads, or if z1 is the best. youre starting to sell me on z1. its def cheap but i would pay more, if something better existed. Will they be able to more easily replace steering rack bushings, while doing transmission and shifter?

the shop doing the suspension is a special expensive shop. shop w my transmission is not cheap or expensive and is real experienced but not a performance shop.

 

Which is stupid too buying expensive parts thinking they are always the best. Thats like me buying Ohlins for my STI when I dont even track it where I can get BC which are just fine for street and occasional track. More money doesn't always = better.

 

Well thats where u all come in lol. I dont really know so if the expensive part is really not better than a cheaper part, i def will go cheaper. Ive always liked quality though. On these arms, Im looking for top quality, and stiffer track/street bushing ones i guess. Im still feel like nismo or fdf arms would handle awesome. Only reason i wouldnt get them, is i dont want to shake some other part of the car and hurt it on street bumps, or hit a bump and have it mess my handling up alot more in the moment. Im still not sure how bad solid arms would be, if you had a little give in the springs.

 

I ran spc.

 

these companies are cheap. install and specialty alignment expensive. Maybe i could replace it later with fdf raceworks, if i decide to track it. What sold me on the fdf was they act like the rear grip kit improves suspension geometry, even for road racing. By moving the knuckles the control arms connect at. But i guess i dont need to be that hardcore yet, if its going to shake the car to death and be streeted more at first.

 

Stop with the shake the car to death crap and start listening to what experienced members here are telling you. 10yrs ago you woulda been flamed out of here by page 2. You've been given plenty of suggestions to fit your needs yet you still question them. This is getting repetitive. Worry about getting your car running properly on the street based off all these suggestions that seem to be given for nothing at this point before you dream big with your giant wallet. Theres no way in hell you're going to build some "sick track car" that you had to buy used and take a loan out for and are knee deep in already.

 

I think i can build it. again, no loan was taken out on car. Just for parts after the car was registered and all. its 100 days to pay off 5 grand or they add a bunch more, and im almost halfway through it and just under halfway paid down too. I was eating nicer food, ive been eating cheap. My goal is to hammer this engine out and enjoy my 350 on the street. If it blows tommorow or something, i may never build it. I plan on halting mods after tune and air mods done and just saving, maybe buying second car too. Then one day the engine will blow or ill get enough money i get trigger happy, and i will pay a bunch to have someone build a used engine for me nice. and go full on srs with the car. I think i can do it over time. And if u all get too upset i can save most of the tech questions for the shop. Its definitely been a help though. After the tune or any other worth it baseline service i can get them to do, or know to do, hopefully i wont be doing alot to it.

 

This. So this!! ^^^

i dropped out, came back, and learned that I don’t like circle jerks so ain’t worth the time.

 

you can lead a horse to water.. and agree Legacy, back in the day this thread would be a curb stomp.

 

Did last night mean nothing to you?

 

 

I really am listening and taking suggestions, even if i pick and choose. i have the compression rod bushings in cart now. I had no idea i needed those, until you all came along. ive got more questions, but I really will chill out on you all, and just post some updates when car is coming along. You all dont seem very happy here. I beat stuff to death asking about it because im indecisive, and sometimes want to talk about it more, or want more convincing. (like what shaking a car over bumps with solid arms will do over time). i care alot about the car and do like it. Ill prob def ask after the good shop does my arms, what else can be done to service it even more. That they did not find.

 

here is what i would suggest... dont immediately go for the bugatti of parts, find something that is in or below your financial situation that suits your needs now, and they will more than likely be fine for whatever you do with the car. many of my friends ran Kinetix FUCA and never had an issue

 

You're fine man. The fact that you stayed in here and acknowledged your stupidity and inexperience goes a long way. I don't mind giving you my opinion on things. I don't think anybody else really does either. If it was that big of a deal, then we wouldn't reply. We're just trying to let you know what we think is going to be the best for you and we talk a lot of trash. We've also learned from our mistakes and trying to let you know what we've been through. If you want to disregard what we advise and do your own thing, that's cool, too. You might get the "I told you so" reply, but if you don't care, it's not a big deal.

Z1 parts are not top tier. They're not bottom tier either. Probably somewhere in the middle. They don't look super fancy or cool, but they're more function over form. Personally, I have not had any issues with their parts. If you want to go with some different FUCAs, Kinetix or SPC are also mid-range and fine.

I would still get your battery and door handle fixed before anything. One step at a time.

 

yessir, battery before door handle, just because i think i can do it, but its all happening.

I think you just sold me on the z1 arms. I hope they stay on sale a few weeks. They also would probably ship quick. I only care about function not looking pretty. I would get different arms if there was a top tier, more forgiving street/track set. From what i see the top tier ones are all solid race only arms.

 

Best is subjective, if you ask me what to get for FUCAs I will say one of two: street = SPC and track = SPL
I have Kinetix which aren't bad (much like Z1) but all of them require dismantling the suspension to align, while SPC and SPL do NOT.
This means the alignment will be easier to get perfect and will cost less in labor.
FDF is more for the drift crowd and I wouldn't use their products over something like SPL.

 

You guys are such dreamers.

 

I mean even a nightmare is still a dream

 

thanks for your feedback too because now im thinking spc. I want my alignment perfect and where im from, only one shop to do it unless i travel. Im also thinking instead of going all out on fdfraceshop, that maybe i should just replace pretty much everything. I had read about someone using fdf for time attack and autox with the rear grip kit. And when asking the rep about a setup for road racing, he led me to the two front arms. I had asked about rear grip kit and mega mantis kit. he strongly suggested against the use of the mega mantis kit for road racing, but didnt say anything about grip kit. i guess meaning use that with front arms. its strange because they act like it handles better period w grip kit. In one video he does say while drifting. plus they are big in drift scene. It changes the points where the rear arms connect. I mean what is it, is it better for road racing or not than some simple arms lol. thats the only reason fdf was interesting to me. They seem to have the highest quality "relocation" kit.


what do you all think of this? would these parts not work in synchrony? one having solid bushings

nismo billet rear traction arms
spc front and rear camber arm kit
z1 upgraded rear compression rods
-(just the bushing will cost in labor to press i want it done right)-
spl front outer tie rod ends
vibratechnics motor mounts
z1 solid shifter support bushings
energy suspension steering rack bushings (should do with suspension or transmission and rest of exhaust?)
irp short shifter v3
cd009 trans new
z1 trans mount
aftermarket clutch and aluminum flywheel idk what type lol. its not a crazy dual clutch. socalz helped pick it out. i bought trans fluid too.
if i ordered 2 oem front inner tie rod kits, would that be a part i could replace as well that i didnt cover with the list?
I pretty much want to replace the whole suspension with it clanking all the time rn...

first i have to do the trans though unfortunately. and i have tomei y pipe and straight pipe being installed to complete the exhaust to manifold. with it straight piped, do i need to tell my shop specific instructions on what to do with sensors? I wouldnt have bought that either yet but i freaked out and thought redneck pipe went back that far

then the suspension. so basically i have more than half but not all of those parts and its two shops, two stops.