This is rediculous. OEM is better than GKTech every single time. I have used GKTech parts and wrecked becuase cheap chinese bushings from GKTech failed. OEM is of better quality 90% of the time. Occasionally it may not fit the "need" you have for aftermarket i.e. lower or stiffer, but it will almost always integrate better with the car than these cheap aftermarket companies.

He probably cannot do the alignment to the OEM spec if it is the BM aftermarket shifter.

 

Ah, good point. Personally, I don't see the point of an aftermarket short throw shifter over OEM. I think the throw is already pretty short and feels good.

For kicks, I googled "350z b&m short shifter" and came up with a ton of threads of people complaining about how trash it is and to never do it, lol. Rattling, vibration, noise, missing 5th gear, etc.

 

Damn. Well I dont have a lift and am not mechanically inclined when it comes to cars. So, i am not able to do this shifter re-alignment.. but i may actually print it out and tell my shop to.. Youre starting to sway me towards the oem. they say like 55% shorter throw though, which is always good if it works properly. Im enjoying the short throw rn, but not worth the problems if thats even the problem. I heard the oem transmission has problems often if you beat it up. Some young people did own this for a period.

However, I cant take the transmission recommendation. It seems we can talk about any shops or brands on these forums or do they need to be vendors? Anyways, hope im not violating a rule but the guys at socalz hooked me up. They were a pleasure to do business with, and i was a problem customer. They helped me get that loan for the parts and got them to me timely. They helped me pick a clutch and flywheel even though neither of us was sure which flywheel. And theres been alot of communication.

I dont want to do that to them and return the trans so im installing it forsure. Plus my shop is storing it for a month for me while i whack at this loan and save for shop bill. my shop has already had it delivered and been real nice about storing it. it was going to be an additional fee to ship to me. its the cd009 and brand new so cant be bad. But u all are swaying me on the oem shifter. it would suck if my shop screwed up the re alignment. the gktech one just looked nice and had good reviews and was expensive. i chose fdf racework arms i havent ordered yet, cuz apparentally gktechs does break.. The hurst short throw shifter had great reviews but requires drilling and grinding. unllike gktech it also seems gktech has a 160 dollar short shifter and then the strikefast one for 500 so i thought it had to be good lol. I just noticed it says "retains oem shift boot". do i have an oem shift boot w my short shifter installed already?

I also am about to purchase z1 motor mounts and trans mounts. both not solid. I want to street the car for awhile so dont want to shake it to death. yet i want something close to solid and stiffer so when i do track it or go ham theres not much movement. i feel like harder bushings but not solid the way to go. and on the motor and trans mount z1 really sold me on description. The oem mount is almost twice the price but id avail. the cars older and ive read stuff does wear out, i want it all done while its easier and apart anyways

 

https://www.irp.lt/individual-racing...0z-z33-g35-v3/

this one looks nice too. irp v3 short shifter. it looks like it has the bottom part that was messed up on mine. So hopefully it would replace everything if the strikefast doesnt.


edit: I dont want to really buy from a company that makes low quality parts like gk tech i guess either.Description

IRP Short Shifter - Nissan 350Z V3 - Black

Short shifter is essential to any dedicated track car, or even your daily driver that could use crisper, more precise shifts. Here it is – quick shift with easy-fit to your original shifter linkage. Individual Racing Parts Nissan 350Z short shifter!
Suitable for Nissan 350Z, Fairlady Z33, Infiniti G35 6 speed manual gearboxes with a standard H shifting pattern, ensuring that the coupling system and everything other than your center console (a little trim is needed) remains completely untouched.
Short and easy installation! Only basic knowledge and skills needed. Fits original mounting. So you can do it yourself! Full bolt-on package.
*Performance manual short shifter
*Fast & accurate quick shift
*Adjustable bolts for 5th -6th speed and reverse gear blocking
*Complementary finish
*Bearings are used to move stick angular and rotational directions
*Made entirely of premium materials:
High Grade aluminum stick and frame
Assembly details (as bolts) are made of stainless steel
Sliding inserts and connection tip are coated with teflon
*Precisely CNC milled aluminum anodized with your favorite color
*Choose different or the same color for reverse button

**For overall short-shifting perfection we highly recommend to use stiffer engine and gearbox mounts or at least check the condition of each before use. The short shifter is for racing use only and could transfer more and louder sounds from the driveline in comparison to OEM shifter due to its billet aluminum construction

 

I am bemused by the fact that you are making decisions based on how much money the parts cost when you have none.

The shift boot is the conical leather piece on the interior which is wrapped around the shifter.

 

ohh okay. Thats what google turned up. I just wasnt sure because my shop called the damaged part, the shift boot. thanks

yeah i mean even though its clearly an issue, i like to think moneys not an issue, because i want top quality no matter what. I really do need to get the most important mods done, and save for another cheap car. It is expensive to rent, everytime i take it to the shop.

 

I think the shop was referring to the "shift boot" as the torn rubber dust cover which is on the underside and shown in your previous picture around the shifter linkage.

 

Thanks again man i feel stupid. I thought the round part at bottom looked marred up. Ill get a z1 dust boot. I may go oem idk still debating on shifter.. But i assume regardless i need a new lower shifter dust boot

Would u buy new shifter support bracket bushings or solid ones? z1 claims that they wear out over time and leave the shifter feeling lifeless. I assume this isnt part of the shifter or short shifter

 

Stop spending money on renting a car and go get yourself a sweet Huffy or Schwinn to commute to work.

I don't really have any advice as far as shifter support bracket bushings. Maybe someone else can chime in. By your bulletproof logic, you should get the most expensive option since it will be the best.

 

lol ok. its still like 6 miles of dangerous roads w crazy fast morning drivers two lane and i have the worst spring allergies ever. prob try and find a really cheap mechanically sound car before that. it does suck tho cuz they are raising prices for summer rentals.

whats ur take on this. in all my cars even non zs that require 87 i run 93 w ethanol. i also use lucas fuel treatment about once an oil change w my 93 w ethanol. There is a station that sells 93 non ethanol. i usually dont use it. two newer rental cars developed strange quirks after using it. and my ford focus engine started knocking bad on it. the pumps look old af and not as many people fill up there. I feel its similar at other 93 non ethanol stations in my area. I would fill up with that, but i dont trust its freshness so i get 93 w ethanol.

 

Add e85 sensor and tune.....boom, done

 

hmm so ur saying its best to feed the car what its tuned for. so maybe i should have ran 87 in my focus

 

Recommended octane for the Z is premium which, in my area is 93, and 91 in others. I only put 93 with no ethanol in the Z. It's more expensive, but the Z isn't my daily.

Probably doesn't matter a whole lot, but before I got my Z tuned on the dyno, there was 93 no ethanol in it.

 

No way. This whole thing is stupid. He should have just saved up and financed a Mustang GT and did bolt ons. That would spank the majority of **** on the road right now with a fair monthly payment. Those things are no joke.

That was what I wanted but being in NY and winters I couldnt have a RWD as my daily.

 

I WILL have a GT350.

 

lol I wish.

In regards to the 2 tho......35k for a GT and I spent 42k on the STI

The money I put into my car my GT would destroy my car. Really sucks having winter even though this season we didnt even get one.

 

lol i hate mustangs. I think now they are lightening up and i wouldnt hate them as much. But like ten years ago they were heavy af, and 25 or 30 years ago i couldnt fit in them.. I would much rather have a c5 z06 or c6.

I almost got either a frs/brz/86. or a c5 z06. In really nice condition i probably couldnt have afforded those and would have had to pay on them. Yes, i want more power in the z and i would in a frs as well. Im all about lighter cars though, and ive always wanted an s2000 or miata but cant fit. I would love to have something light like that and boost it. was thinking if i got a frs id do full bolt-ons and a certain supercharger that makes torque.

 

Old 350z + loan + rental + repairs + "best high end parts"... after all the $ in it pretty sure it'll still be slower than a good condition HR and 370z, if this thing is ever complete. We have quite a ways till Thanksgiving.

 

Good call since you bought this Z with cash...

 

Yeah being in debt and full collision sucks. After i pay down 3k dollar credit card and the rest of this part loan im debt free. it is so tempting to even get something nice for second car. i have been screwed before, buying cars with problems cheap. But youre right i should prob stay out of debt.

I love the z! it sounds like a rice burner with the tomei only going back to stock y-pipe. But its going to come together soon, and ive always wanted one. I guess i do see why you want some bounce in the suspension for street. If going around a corner at high speed and hit big enough bump, i can see how a stiffer suspension could actually cause your wheels to hop off the ground and send you sideways.

i have to roll down the window to open driver door from outside. today i got stranded in it, because battery negative terminal was loose. passenger side wouldnt unlock, and as usual driver door wouldnt open and windows were up. i got so hot in there.. is this a common problem with the door handle not working? is it the cable? ill get it fixed i just dont know when