I do feel like the leather would give a little bounce with all of the solid bushings and stiffer suspension. It would be worth the sacrifice i think to save weight, and get a better seating position.

 

At least there's some self-recognition in this thread.

 

the 350 is definitely losing oil, and thats a bummer. I put that zombie green molygen 5w30 in it, and drove it 30 mins to the shop. they looked for leaks, when i told them it was losing oil, and had uv tracers. they said they didnt see anything except maybe some i spilled in plastic splash guard (def possible).

i have had to fill it with more oil twice now, and idk where its going! i do park on grass and already oil covered concrete often, but have never noticed oil spots under car. I did notice that fluid in right rim, but only once. brake fluid wasnt low, and when they changed my lines, they didnt say one was busted. they said the other sides driver caliper was jammed.

 

Sounds like it's time to replace the piston ring seals.

Do a compression and leak down test to confirm.

Add it to the evergrowing to-do list!

 

If he's doing that, just build the motor.

 

Yes. Must also use most expensive-est parts because they're the best-est.

 

wow, i will check on cost of all of that, and continue the journey! maybe even go at snail speed someday and get loan on second car, to keep miles off it. Its already a slow build. It doesnt seem to be a big oil loss, i will keep monitoring exactly how much im losing. Are the guides for dipstick replacable? or do u just break them off? mine are broken and flapping, they block the hole, and snag the dipstick sometimes. My new dipstick is getting crinkles.

ive been buying parts. still no money to put them on.

 

Just get a longer dipstick, that way you'll never be low until the sump's empty.

So, at what temperature are you checking oil? Consistently and always same temperature? And what are these "diipstick guides" you refer to? Break them off? Sounds like a box cutter blade.....

 

they feel like box cutter blades and are flimsy and annoying lol. I thought everybody had them. its those two pieces of metal on the side that guide the dipstick in the hole.
edit: although they look like box cutter blades, closely inspected they are not. They do have two holes in sides at bottom, that dipstick can miss hole and go thru. they also come unnattached and wiggle around/cover the hole and need to be adjusted. this leads to dipstick either getting snagged by them on the way out, or caught in the wrong hole otw in.





Im not checking at same temp. i thought i had to wait atleast 30 mins.. but longer was okay w cold motor.

 

well, wish i could share the video, but dont feel like going thru the youtube crap. but the z broke down on me this morning. wouldnt start. it will make the choke sound infinitely when pressing key forward, but will never grabngrowl and start. Everything electrical works. i guess i need a mobile mechanic now

 

Fixed.

 

lol. idk why u all think my shop is so bad, but i admit, its not the same as soho motorsports or something. some good hands will be on it soon. My shop wants me to install all the suspension bushings and parts there, to save money, then take it to the performance shop 2 miles away, for alignment. Like you said, my shop rate is already kind of high, so i may just have that shop install all of the parts. I may ask for more help if still experiencing other issues.

I want to do throttle body, and battery soon, to try to fix rpm issue. This no-start issue was different, my shop said maybe crankshaft sensor again, but they need to look at it.

 

wow.. so i ubered to and from work, and wasted 40 bucks. I told my dad that i had filled it real full with gas before parking, and even topped it off with lucas oil fuel treatment. He said with it being so full, it could have vaporlock. He told me to remove the gas cap and try starting, it started up quick! I hope thats all it was, and it continues to start.

The thread might not be so lively for next month. Some of these parts ship so slow, and im also trying to get far ahead of the loan this time.

 

I actually do have a question guys. so all of my suspension stuff is coming. I have literally everything including all of the bushings (except rear knuckle). Some of the parts are delayed, i may have to call and substitute. While i wait, i have no new midlinks, and that stupid megan racing rear toe arm. The only thing i have for rear is traction arms, and camber arms. I wanted the spl midlink, but it says its compatible with 2.5id standard springs. I have the bilstein b12 kit, which uses eibach pro springs. i spent a long time looking it up, and got a different id for eibach pro springs. either 2.25 or 2.75 i dont remember.

I want this perfect, what would make it perfect? spl midlink and some 2.5 id springs?

 

Just to let you know, the Bilstein B12 kit does NOT use Pro Kit springs (the ones you'd if the springs were purchased separately from Eibach). They are very similar spec with the Eibach (standalone) product having a stiffer ride. The B12 kit from Bilstein uses an ever so slightly softer spring as ride comfort was the goal with their shocks. Here's where you can save some of that loan money... You need a toe adjustment like this and a good shop to install them and set rear alignment. You do not need overkill on this and unless running true coilovers and substitute the OE spring bucket with toe arms, this works just fine.

 

Okay thanks mic. Ill buy that eibach kit. i guess ill leave that megan racing rear toe arm, and just add the parts im getting. I really do want suspension to be perfect. I feel like it helps you not wreck, and want to take the car to its limit someday.

the b12 kit is already on. I hope my bad alignment, and shoddy parts, are not screwing it up. You said not to go all out, but this is what ive purchased suspension wise. Unfortunately im still waiting on the first three items..

nismo billet rear traction arms

z1 upgraded monoball compression rods (for bushings)

nissan front inner tie rod kit

SPL front outer tie rod ends

SPL Billet rear camber arms

SPL Front lower control arm/shock bushings

SPL V4 titanium FUCAs

also just got the hotchkis sway bar kit, and p2m front and rear sway endlinks. I knew i didnt need this yet and need money for shop bills. Im feeling FOMO, with parts not coming on time, and Z1 running two contests this month. I have my 75mm throttle body. may go ahead and order headers and some other stuff, while contest ongoing. I think the car has used a Quart of oil in just over 1000 miles. Thats alot, but still see no signs of a leak. It also runs good except the one rpm problem. I will keep monitoring that. I want to get suspension fixed, and maybe even engine looked at before tune. Idk if theres a good engine building shop here. I hate to drive this car far.

 

Dude is dropping some serious money into suspension. I'm not hating and good for you for not buying cheap/replica/fleabay parts. I just hope the engine lasts long enough for you to enjoy it.

 

I want to love on the engine some too. Im dedicated to figuring out oil loss, and low rpm dip. I definitely wont get rid of the car. used jdm engine here we come, if that happens.

Im going to go ahead and post two more photos of these super annoying oil dipstick guides, moving and catching my dipstick. One moment youre going out the middle of them, next your dipstick gets caught outside the guard. No fixes or nobody breaks them off?

 

And a competent suspension-knowledgable shop to install and adjust. Without that, there's $thousands down the toilet.

But ya, doesn't it make sense to get the car running properly (baselined) before all the geegaws? Oy.... there's that baseline word again. And I was asked what was advised and ignored? C'mon OP, get with the program. Basics first! Like having a talented shop doing the work, it also makes sense to start at step one else all those borrowed dollars for step five upgrades are being spent for zero gain.

 

Yes, the suspension shop will be competent, and may try to fully stay away from my shop on that one. My shops owner was acting like he can take it on. idk how they would even get it 2 miles down the street, to the competent shop that does alignments.

yes i really want to baseline. The suspension and battery bother me the most day to day. I admit shouldnt be buying sway bars. It is gratifying buying parts with the contests and stuff. Im most worried about rebuilding parts of the engine, or where this oil is going. I may have to travel for a shop that competent. Or maybe i can just stay on schedule. I have two diff expensive performance shops to goto. Maybe they can inspect it, or recommend someone. One is for my suspension, other is for tune and final performance upgrades. I actually was thinking,

LMT ported lower plenum
z1 angled 5-16-1/2 plenum spacer
75mm throttle body
LMT 4 in intake
headers
tune

I definitely want the issues fixed, but my shop cant fix it and theyre pretty good. I kind of want to get some work done somewhere anyways, and maybe i can get a discount diagnosis. I hope it hasnt lost that much oil and im reading the dipstick wrong. It snags all the time and both sides of those guides move. I need to fix that.