As long as you're weren't excessively dragging or feathering the clutch at high rpm's, it should not have failed that quickly. Generally the break-in procedure is just to drive it in stop-and-go traffic under normal conditions for about 500 miles. If it has already failed, I would question either the quality of the clutch or improper installation.

I don't understand this "engine shutter."

 

the engine shutter is when the rpms dip too low, and it dies, or almost does. The problem my shop couldnt nail down. Its simply from rpms going too low.

Another problem i notice, is ill be in neutral, and quickly slam down clutch pedal, and try to shift in reverse. I press the clutch pedal atw down first, but sometimes it grinds because im too fast, trying to put in reverse. I feel like i should be able to do that fast.

i slipped it more than normal being so sticky, but not high rpms. It may be the clutch or my shop

 

I don't know why you would ever want to slam it into reverse or power shift like that. The Z is a little notchy. That just seems dumb. If it's grinding like that, it's probably a result of the short throw shifter being slightly out of alignment since you don't have the stock shifter anymore. The grinding is typical of a shifter plate misalignment (which you no longer have). Also, if you're not at a 100% dead stop, it will grind going into reverse.

In other words, stop slamming it into reverse. Just shift normal. Power shift all you want while you're moving FORWARD.

 

its usually just instinct. I will turn my car on a few mins late to work. ill wait 30 sec for it to warm up some. and ill be so antsy to go ill just slam it in reverse. its at a dead stop, and i feel like i should be able to do that if pedal is to the floor. maybe its misaligned

 

What type of MT fluid are you using?

Does it only grind when it's cold, or also after the trans is warmed up?

 

i have no idea what fluid, as its never been changed. its the old trans they put back in, for now. i have four bottles of redline mt-85, that will go in new one.

Ive only noticed it mainly when its cold. It may have grinded before when doing quick turn around. Not usually though, and maybe i was slightly rolling backwards. Its hard to remember. When it grinds on cold quick reverse shift, its diff than the grind going into 5th. The reverse feels and sounds more like when you dont have the clutch pedal down atw and try to shift. Plus its a new thing since the clutch, flywheel, and shifter install. 5th gear has been grinding the whole time.

edit: well the z is kaput for now sucks because its my only daily, and still kind of struggling on credit and money. drove bad and sounded bad, and smelled like clutch real bad. def need the clutch..

https://youtube.com/shorts/Pt6lOAXm_cw?feature=share

I do need some advice! Its more shifting rough and driving funny than slipping. it was real rough and alot worse in end of trip. Im 30 mins from the repair shop. Maybe ill be okay and not mess up engine if i attempt to drive it?

socalz said the clutch that messed up on me is, clutchmasters fx300 stage 3. Maybe it was too sticky for stop and go? it did require alot of slipping. but i try to be as easy as possible

 

Clutchmasters isn't that great. Try a Southbend.

 

well kind of late.. i have the flywheel too, and i didnt know what it was compatible with. socalz hooked me up again and those loans are kind of cool. theres no interest except 40 dollar fee, unless you go over 100 days.. then its insane. i think i can do it again.

i got some kind of slave cylinder and clutch they recommend. along with all of my suspension stuff i need. hopefully its not just a **** clutch but i guess we will find out on round 2. I did it this way, because with car rentals and shop costs, im failing. Now as long as the engine doesnt blow before thanksgiving, i should be good. the clutch scares me, because it affects the engine.

once the parts come in ill document what i have this time

 

This dumpster fire has turned into a burning landfill.

It's hard to say what caused the clutch to fail (if that's what is actually happening). The clutch quality could be trash, the install was wrong, something wasn't fully dis/engaging causing premature failure, bad/faulty MC or SC, misaligned short throw shifter, etc.

Sounds like it's time to burn the house down and start over.

 

 

no kidding... especially since i checked the oil, and it was below minimum! i thought it was running a little rough last time.. its hard to check this dipstick sometimes, but last time i thought it was halfway between min and max.

if the engine goes with the new loan im screwed. Def not burning the house down. If it gets too bad ill try to get a damn scooter for work or something lol. My shop is on their annual vacation next week too! When my trans and clutch arrives, and rental expensive.

edit: may be brakes or wheel bearing or something.. I just noticed my rim had crap all over it. something was definitely wrong last time i drove.


thats front passenger wheel

 

Can't believe this thread is still going strong. Several $100k+ builds of yesteryear barely hit 20 pages. lol

 

That looks like brake fluid. Probably too late now, but that will destroy the finish on your rim. Also, get that checked immediately. Leaking brake fluid is a problem that can literally kill you.

 

well i try to update it. give u all some kind of content even if it sucks, and ive gotten some help in return. we actually looked at that on ramps and its something in front of the passenger tire, spraying brake ****. now im wondering, if alot of the noise was brakes or even the clutch smell. May tackle suspension if clutch still works. it moved car back and forth fine. I just knew something was seriously wrong. The car was also a whole quart low on oil!

i did all kinds of research and almost got mobil1 0w40 but instead ended up with motul 8100 xclean + 5w30 and an old packaging m1-105 filter lol now i may pick up liqui molly molygen 5w-30 and run that first to identify any leaks.

 

It's one of the few active threads actually about the car and not pwrr related

 

Dayam, those rotors ever been replaced? Your brakes are f'd up. Look at that pitting and the ridge. I'd wager if you mic'd that, they'd be waaaay under tolerance. Jeebus, pay attention to some details, how about it? "Baseline" applies to brakes too! You don't listen to shid and this stuff just gets more unbelievable as time goes on. Soooooo tempted to lock this thread for the reason below.

Why so hard to believe, Mistuh Spahco? It's gone in circles for months. A "paranoic problem" is offered solutions and then it comes back in slightly revised form a few pages later. New definition of a zombie thread, or updated for the 21st century, "The Walking Dead" thread.

Like the circle jerking is killing all of us? I'll say it again.... I don't mind "not knowing stuff" but when answers have been given ad nauseum and the next post asks the same question or said advice is just ignored like it wasn't what the OP wanted to hear, well....

Yeah, this is terse but one can only take so much. I mean, is this what the forum has come to? Sad.

 

what did i ask again mic? I also have been listening to the advice. I only have so much money. The brakes were going to be after tune, but looks like theyre now. I dont know how to recognize how bad the brakes are, but i could tell they were not ideal. im wondering what else i need other than a brake kit for brakes, but im sure the shop will tell me

Im in a bad spot right now, because my shop is going on vacation next week. Im in a rental thats 300 a week. Its eating up all the money i need for the car. I wanted real nice brakes, but may get powerstop z26 street warrior drilled and slotted. I had them on a different car, werent too bad. Im open to other suggestions, but cant break the bank this time. The z1 non-brembo kit looks okay.

about the only thing i didnt listen to, was i got my nice race bushings with the loan i just got. I still feel the suspension is more than out of alignment and want it fully baselined bad. I thought the clutch went out, i could hear rotational scraping noises more in neutral than in gear. If its brakes, i will save my money for clutch and trans, and just do brakes. Hopefully i can do suspension before clutch and trans, but i do think the clutch may be whats killing the idle occasionally. My shop said they heard the throwout bearing.

and thanks ia8. Im not missing much brake fluid out of resevoir, thought it may be hydraulic fluid or something else if brakes even have those lol. about to wipe rims down now.

 

both brake an clutch use brake fluid. if i were you, i would pull the wheel off and look at the brake line

 

This is an '03, right? Might have an oil consumption issue. The problem was mostly '06 RevUp's, but I've seen an occasional issue from other years.

Buy the 4 wheel kit with pads. Cheapest way to get everything you need. Find the part number for your kit and order it on Amazon. I've bought multiple kits from them this way. I use them on my customer cars. Get the Z23 kit. Don't get the Z26 kit unless you're tracking the car. The Z26 brakes make noise. EDIT: Here's the kit to get...

Check you clutch reservoir level too. A leaking clutch line may also be the cause of your clutch going out. If it leaks fluid when you depress the clutch pedal, that will cause the clutch to not fully disengage, causing rough shifting and excessive wear. If it's leaking, replace it with a stainless line.

 

Clutch and brake fluid reservoir are on the driver's side. That pic shows fluid all over the passenger side wheel. I'm guessing it's the brake line to that caliper, but who knows at this point. This is just one disaster after another.

Is it time for the part-out thread yet?