rears are too short,

 

thats a cool tool. I mean i knew they werent ideal. I was just trying to get by on something cheap and avail, until i do tires and suspension. Im kind of confused that heel said the issue i was talking about in rain, must be tires. It doesnt feel like tires, and has happened with all the different tires ive used. Even when no difference in size.

its either wait til round 1, and get good tires then too. Or

just do rear camber arms and fucas, sooner. and schedule the special alignment sooner(and do it again later with bushings soon)

the first option i also have a choice of buying one more set of used tires for rear, or buying 2 new tires and a normal alignment. So i can make it to round 1..

 

ideally 275/40 in rear... depending on what wheels you have

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

 

duplicate post

 

I would like 275 in rear because i figured it would offer ideal track performance. Will wait to change wheels, with more important issues in the forefront. Idk what size my wheels are it doesnt say on them. all i know, is they came with 255,40,18 on all tires, and it looked pretty normal.

 

In order to get your suspension to BASELINE, before anything else, you need to:
1. Install adjustable front upper control arms
2. Install rear adjustable camber and traction arms
3. Install properly sized tires
4. Get an alignment

You should do steps 1-3 (in whatever order but at the same time) and then step 4.

I don't remember what your wheel specs are, but they will likely be stamped on the inside of the barrel or behind one of the spokes.

Stock staggered size is 225/45/18 in the front on an 18x8 wheel with a +30 offset. Rear is 245/45/18 with +33 on an 18x18.5 wheel. Enter that information in one of the many wheel/tire calculator tools widely available. I like this one: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

Then, enter the new specs for your new wheels and whatever tire is available at your dollar general thrift shop used tire shop that you seem to like and see if the overall diameter is 3% difference or less in order to keep TCS/VDC happy.

Done.

 

this is what was throwing me off about the traction arms youre reccomending. You all posted this back to back a long time ago, so i assumed just camber arms? I prob wont get z1 kit, because i plan on multiple alignments, i want them adjustable on car. so final answer is traction and camber arms? Im not on true coilovers.


Ok, i guess i will call place that aligns them soon and try to get a head start without my bushings Im condsidering buying a beat up chevy cavalier that runs from co-worker, for 700 dollars, instead of paying summer car rental prices this time. It's 400 a week to rent car. Tempted to drive this cavalier, and get my bushings and all, and stop driving z. Im sure there will be something to fix on it too, unfortunately.

 

You could probably get by with camber arms on the rear to get you close enough to spec alignment-wise. Traction arms would add an extra layer of adjustability to the rear suspension which may eliminate the mushy/swervy/out-of-control feeling when you hit bumps, but I don't think it would be 100% necessary right now to prevent destroying your tires. Up to you.

 

ok cool, thanks heel!

 

bahhhhh.. got the z looked at and they cant figure it out. they hooked the nice computer to it, and everything is within parameters. It wasnt doing the issue at the time. and the only dash lights ever on, are for the tires and vdc flippin out. The tech said he did clean the throttle body some, when he took it off last. They told me to get an ob11 data logger now. and im going to try to log when it happens for them. any suggestions on what data logger to buy?

Im going with veepeak ble+

watched a youtube video where he used a paid app obd fusion + with it. worked pretty well i may do something like that.

I still dont have anything lol. But i paid my rent early. Im going to begin saving. I know you all have grumpy gills now but i may try to atleast fit a few of those bushings into baseline. it still clangs and feels off up front. The whole swerving in the rain thing may be alignment related. But i mean having a normal operating suspension is baseline to me. I do want that tune bad, and i think its at the top of mics list..

 

If you just want a scanner, get the Torque App. It's the most popular one and it works.

 

cool, it seems like there are a few different useful apps. i am ordering hardware today. may still get veepeak, its so cheap. Obd link mx+ is 4 times the cost. Only difference i can tell, is a nice factory app, a few small features i wont use, and i support usa instead of china. edit: got veepeak

All i want to do is log/save as many sensors and other stuff as i can. idc about it trying to figure out the problem, my shop can do that.

 

so i got veepeak. It was way cheaper, but if i could do it again (and may this is cool!), i would get obdlink. The only reason is it wont drain ur battery w power off, so you can leave it plugged in. This removing and replacing thing, is going to be annoying. Mainly because i think theres something wrong w obd port. it presses up into the space its in under pressure, and is difficult to plug in.

i bought obdfusion app. its nice, and cost me 9.99. the torque app was only avail through a third party on iphone, and did not support veepeak.

 

So this unit supports data logging (live data)?

You're going to download data, then give it to the shop in digital form?

 

yes. I tried logging this morning. I connected the obdfusion app to veepeak(plugged in obd2), after turning the vehicle on. Then i drove. It only logged useless data, like vehicle speed and gps location. I watched more youtube and found out i have to go into preferences on the app, and choose what PID's, I want to log. Also, it confused me at first because there were hundreds of them. Then i learned if my car is connected, it will only show the ones my car is compatible with, and make the list way smaller. So next time i drive, hopefully i can select the PID's that I want to log, and see what the logs look like. One guy on youtube was using another app to clean up logs, and make them more presentable. So I definitely have more to learn about it still.


The trans should be arriving monday. i paid to ship it back, and my shop ate the install hours. Yet socalz was asking if i could pay the shipping again! But it was already shipped and i was talking my way out of it. He said it was cool, but he can get any of the parts that z1 can for same deal, and if i could buy some parts from him that would help.

I guess i will to be a nice guy. I wanted entries to win the 2023 z lol, but i prob wont win that thing. We only had problems with trans from nissan. the clutch, flywheel, and exhaust purchase, went smoothly. I really dont understand why his Nissan, wont cover the shipping.

edit: i will post pid's next time i turn my car on. maybe you all could tell me what i dont need to monitor? if not i will just keep researching. Right now im monitoring almost 30 values. Im thinking issue could be from clutch alignment, or fuel filter. It could be something else. Tech said he cleaned my throttle body some when doing gaskets.

 

well, as an update, i was randomly talking to my shops owner. He said i need a new clutch, and i just had one put in. he said the bearing was worn out in it. He said he heard it rattle on the lift last time. I personally thought the rpm dip issue could be clutch related.. plus it does make alot of noise, and two diff noises. i didnt know if the flywheel and clutch, were supposed to be that noisy. I will def call socalz on this one since im an idiot, and dont know what flywheel clutch combo i even have.

 

I'm sorry... you need a new clutch already? After what... a couple hundred miles???

 

Yes, i know its ridiculous. Im wondering if my shop could be to blame for this one. However, I could change it, and keep it, and inspect it. That problem with it stalling out and dying and stuff, is killing me. I hate feeling the engine shutter. It really doesnt do it all the time though, and ive noticed its so situational.. its not just when the cars warmed up, although it never does it on a cold start. Im wondering if its clutch related, like the clutch is grabbing some randomly. I dont have much problems with my clutch except noise under 2k rpms, and its maybe slightly less smooth than when first put in.

edit: ive put some miles on the car, working in diff areas. I started when i did the tomei exhaust and b12 kit, with an oil change. Im about to do an oil change now at 4600k so maybe 2500 miles since trans done? I noticed strange clutch related issues quick though like a few hundred miles.

 

Did you do proper clutch break in?

 

no..😧. I actually felt uneasy driving off, wondering if there was such a thing. I didnt research it before i picked my car up and just drove off. Even killed it first try because i didnt know how sticky it was then i was a pro lol