Well, im nailing down the throttle body to chase the rpm issue. Im also getting the new battery with new terminals installed. Im still putting alot of work into baseline. I guess i want it to be fun too. I dont like driving it as my boring car. I understand i can go tear it up with the b12 kit. It would have to be at the track, because until the cars badass enough, im scared of losing my license. The suspension is part of baseline, but i guess im going overboard.. I mean once i get suspension and trans nailed, then i can focus on tune and engine health. It may be slightly out of order per mics guidelines, but the trans is annoying too. Its also sitting at my shop who is nicely storing it for me. and clutch is having major problems. I have all trans parts bought, so these will be tackled soon.

 

i also noticed the the kw clubsport does look nice. Im a little worried, about the extra adjustability of these top end coilovers. I may just wait as suggested, or rush ship whatever is nice and available. the stance xr 2 or hks hypermax r have less adjustability so i may get those. My reasoning is, idk if i can learn it all. So im probably going to be relying on whatever settings the special alignment shop give me, based on what i say i want. id almost rather trust hks and keep it jdm lol.

 

Forget coilovers, but a static setup....

 

i almost forgot hks is not divorced. The stance xr 2 has a divorced version. Is that what you mean?

and i guess i could run these b12s and work more on trans and engine first. It doesnt sound like the fun decision though

 

This is why I never recommend coilovers on a street car. So easy to make it worse than stock.

 

Koni and eibach prokit and he would be done

 

I do plan on changing b12 kit, whether its now or later. Is that combo really that different from b12? The divorced stance xr2 sounds better to me. It seems a good bit stiffer, but only has damping adjustability, so i wont be too confused adjusting them

 

Yep. Had that setup on my '01 Tiburon (autocross) and will be getting it for the Cobalt. The Koni Yellows are adjustable.

 

I had tokico d-spec and prokit....loved it

 

"I do plan on changing b12 kit,"

For some lesser stuff you can't adjust. Yes, as a matter of fact, I do see the logic in that.

 

Unless he is tracking the car alot...no need for coils

 

thats the plan man. i want to get a beater, or loan on non beater, and stop driving this thing slow in some months. Anytime i go out (track hopefully),itll be ***** to the wall. I wont even have a license plate on it, unless i need to drive to track. Yet, i am pussyfooting around town right now. Just remember, im not building this as a cruising car anymore, im building it for road rally. Idk how tf im going to find a road rally sanction, but thats my ideal racing i want to do someday.

im so confused lol. I was talking to the owner of socalz. Hes smart i think. I told him that i had learned something like that "a divorced setup is better for handling and lap times, than true coilovers, because its close to nissans original suspension geometry which is correct. ". He said he doesnt agree with that at all, and would get true coilovers.

edit: i read alot about it on these forums and z1 saying that you need to modify the rear crossmember (whatever that is) and stuff people dont usually do, to use true coils optimally. so i think ill stay on the divorced train. I know some of you dont condone modding my suspension when im still waiting to do other important stuff after. its so close though lol. is there anything at all you suggest if i keep my setup? spl midlink you all said no to earlier in thread.

 

If you're building it for track purposes, definitely don't get Chinese coilovers. Get Ohlins, KW, or Moton. Save up for them and just drive on what you have now. The modifications to the rear subframe are to replace the subframe and diff bushings with solid inserts. This dramatically increases NVH, but prevents the subframe from moving and acting as part of the suspension.

 

Interesting, i still dont quite get all of that. I would like to get an aftermarket differential someday. I wonder if that is replacing the subframe with solid inserts.
i guess i will wait on coils, it will be a difficult purchase anyways. whats your thoughts on the stance xr2 or xr3? They both offer a rear divorced setup. xr3 more adjustable, which makes my mind hurt.

 

The subframe bushings are where the subframe mount to the body. Not related to the diff other than that the diff has to come out to do them.

 

 

Suspension with fancy coilovers is going to be worthless without a healthy engine and a functioning transmission. Those should be the first order of business before November 23.

 

the trans is annoying lol. sometimes hard to get into gear and could def mess u up. It should be tackled soon. Then, ill go for the tune and last cheapish mods. Then i guess i need to figure out the oil leak. Ill keep asking, and see if any shops can figure it out. It sounds like getting into some money, if it needs to be compression tested and party rebuilt. Atleast its not as fast of a leak, as i thought.

 

Didn't you already say there's no oil anywhere outside of the engine? That's not a leak. That's oil burning/consumption. It's going somewhere.

Why not get a compression or leak down test completed so you know what you're up against and possible rebuild. Make too much sense to plan ahead?

 

i offered the solution, oh, about 152 posts ago.

When the oil shows low, insert longer dipstick. That'll show that VQDE who's boss!