Getting an accurate reading from the dipstick is harder than on other vehicles. It is a poor design in my opinion and it seems like more of an afterthought. If it is consuming a qt every 1000 miles, then that is a serious problem.

I believe what we're all trying to say is you need to spend your money to get that issue fixed and all other known problems sorted out before tackling all of the aftermarket modifications. If not, you're going to have yourself an expensive paperweight.

 

Those guides are there because it's sometimes hard to see the hole with the intake in the way. It was better than asking owners to use flower to find the hole, or surrounding it with hair.

 

That would be a more intelligent design even though the exact area is dependent on what you're driving.

 

well they should have made it attached at the bottom without a big hole on each side of the hole, if they did, mines broken. i guess i can just deal with it if theres no fix. very tempted to try and remove them. idk what the 4 in intake will block, but i can see it fine with a light rn.
if it wouldnt flip all the way to the other side, like in last picture, and randomly grab my dipstick, i would b okay with keeping them

 

I ran over this reply. I hope that it is not using that much oil! With my guides always catching my dipstick, it removes some of the oil off of it. I was worried about my readings as well. Ill ramble about it below.

I filled it up with 5.25 quarts. Then, before starting it, i realized my german oil was more than 5qts. So i attempted to drain the .25 out. I thought i got it perfect. I also got a solid reading, but maybe not. Then i checked again, and it was halfway between mid and max. i keep checking and adding oil, trying to stay at max now. I have since used a whole quart. I believe it is still at max now, I need to check soon. I just am having difficulty believing im losing that much. I parked on concrete some recently, and dont see any on the ground. with the tire and suspension problem, and clutch going out, idk if i will build the engine first.. Thats money, and some of these other problems are killing me. I will definitely keep checking the oil. I wanted to break off the guides, but i now see the whole assembly for sale on conceptz! ill prob spend more of my bucks on that.

 

It's been like almost 3 weeks.

Did this thread finally die?

 

Nope lol, but maybe in some sense. I may even save for an engine rebuild someday or something, and at times, it may not update for a very long time. Im just too broke to consistently entertain u all lol. Ive received alot of help though, and am happy.

The suspension is officially being done in 2.5 weeks. I know its awhile, but the loan for all of my nice parts is high, and so will be the shop bill.

I am still waiting on compression rods and front inner tie rod but doing suspension no matter what, in 2.5 weeks.

I exchanged the slave cylinder they sent for hr. Im waiting on it and a clutch master cylinder. I may try to change the lines while down there, any other stuff i can change to refresh it would be good to know. I will have the new trans put in. I also have my throttle body, and will do it with suspension, in attempt to fix rpm issue. My headers are otw to install with trans for ease.


i should have the suspension and trans done in 2 months. Then, i will save for tune and 4 in intake. Thennnn, i will finally save to have engine inspected or built.. Even though i want a different differential. I hope it makes it that long. its not losing a quart every 1000k miles, its slower than that forsure. Its hard to tell how much, but it is losing some.


I can read the dipstick now, but that first divet in the dipstick, a ways above max, always has a glob of oil in it

 

I also picked up a set of four, continental extreme contact sport, summer tires.

i was going to go michelin, but i saw these on sale and have liked them before. paid 200 a tire before instalation, for four 255,40,r18

im also not sure i like my b12 kit lol. but im not going to focus on that now. Ill try it out some more with all of these cool suspension parts, or ask if they can install better bump stops or something. It just seems too soft. When i go down in a dip really fast, my car smacks the bottom of itself too easily. I wish it had more resistance. I may try to jump it once i get car more dialed in, and get used to it. I doubt i will keep the b12 kit, longer than a year though.

 

I'll give you $300 for the Bilsteins.

With everything else you're doing to the suspension, you should be on coilovers!

 

$301.

You can put that towards a loan for some BC Type ZR coilovers.

 

KW V3's if you can't afford Ohlins. BC's are the best of the Chinese crap, but still Chinese crap. Had the BC's on my track day Civic. They don't spend any time R&D'ing each individual car. The valving is all off. If you're just looking for maximum drop, go BC. If you want the car to handle well, KW.

 

Yeah i saw a reddit post saying bcs are more for people that dont track, but just want to drop the car. Yet, theres alot of positivity about them on these forums. Those zr ones heel recommended seem nice, but idk. Are all of these divorced setups? I was hoping to stay divorced, because u all said its the best geometry. I dont want anymore drop, ill scrape my driveway. The inch of drop from b12 is perfect. I also dont even care about comfort anymore. Someday, ill get a second car or beater. I really do want it perfect, for the track that im not at lol. Even for the roadways. Im just that kind of guy. I wish the brakes had more initial bite, but they were perfect for price right now.

Those kv v3s are 3 grand as far as i see and the ohlins are cheaper at 2600

 

this is getting hairy financially, but if i go through with the coilovers, i was thinking

bc racing zr

or

stance xr2 or maybe even xr3(ouch)

or

maybe even a fortune auto




I think i can get divorced setups for all of these. i like the idea of the ohlins, but it kind of just kills me that its advertised as street/track, and comfortable. Originally, i wanted this car barely comfortable. But, its loud, idk if i want to keep it on the road, i want to drive it like micvelo reccomends lol. I really dont care for comfort. The only strange thing i really want, is i still like the idea of building this thing to fit my past needs. The driving style i enjoyed. Which involves hills and occassional obstacles, like mishapen pavement, and potholes. So the only reason i wouldnt want it stiff as ever, is to combat obstacles like that.

the kw ones seem kind of street oriented too, but if they are divorced, its still a consideration. You made the ohlins sound better though, and they sound like theyre designed for comfort somewhat.

 

You know what, bro, been forever since I've mentioned this (longer time members will recall how harpy I am on this topic, laff).

But here's what I suggest: Get some driving time on the car right after you get the car set up and aligned (read: autocross, track days, and, hevvin forbid, finance a driving school). When you can drive past 80% of THE CAR'S CAPABILITY, then start thinking about the key pieces you need that aren't cutting it. You wastin' your money, bruh. Ain't no point gettin' all that good shid if you can't use it.

This is NOT an admonishment, it's just logic and a philosophy.

I'll use me as an example (because yes, I like to hear myself talk - or so my wife says ).... Seriously though, I raced in SCCA for a couple of years, did a LOT of hill driving when I was a kid and for the last few years, average at least twice a month up there in ever more challenging sections just to see if I can still do it without driving into a canyon. Oh, on top, I went to driving school - twice - 3-day then follow up 2-day in prep for a comp license.

No brag, just fact. Here's the thing... I had a midlife crisis and bought a Z car. Kept it for ten years (sold about two months ago) and enjoyed every minute of it with only suspension, tires, (lotsa different) wheels. No power adds other than an S-Tune catback. And yes, had several other Z cars (7) in the same time period. Why do I mention this? I'm well trained, and IMEO, a fairly competent driver; and yet, I get more out of my cars without going all out with just well thought out components. No, I'm not Max Verstappen. I know my limits and I know what I needed on my car to give me what I wanted it to do. Sure, it's possible that because I know my limits, I just don't push it as hard as it deserves to be driven. Or maybe I'm just a wuss driver. Possible. No care.

Point here: this thread has gone on ad nauseum and your car doesn't sound like it's any closer to one and done. You bought top line Bilsteins. You don't like them. You can't find the hole to check your oil. You think that rust from your exhaust is going to transfer to your car. C'mon man.

If you take anything away from this "cruel truth", it's that you're overthinking it all. Drive it. Learn it. Learn more about the physics and the how-it-all-works before you go off buying a set of Ohlins shocks that ain't gonna do shid if the driver ain't up to it. Oh, and g'wan and try to adjust the the coilovers. You know anything about jounce, rebound, crossweighting, pre-load, etc? Like so many of the people out there that buy coilovers because the crowd on Instaswag all have 'em and only use 'em for moarlow. Ehhhhh.

[Rant off cuz I mean well but honestly, it's all a circle jerk at this point.]

 

i swear im not a bad driver, but youll probably never believe it lol. I do admit, i havent done anything that cool in this car, because its not setup right or new. I also do need a little more pure rwd experience, and am rusty. Ive driven fwd for almost 10 years. But i could literally sit here all day, and tell you all the crazy stories of all the idiotic/braggable stuff ive done.. Even in some of these newer economy cars. I feel like you dont understand, or believe that part. It would be way better than most if youtube if filmed right, and got quite ridiculous sometimes.. Probably because I drove like i was on a track often!

Im actually confident i can take this car to its complete max potential, like near 100 percent lol. Im just scared to do it on roadways with how much i like the car, and no good safety measures yet. I also plan on going to track forsure! Whether i stay there, or just have one auto x day to get used to my car.. So believe it or not, but i will make it to the track, and not the driving school unless they make me. Maybe ill film my first track day and send it to you. Or just go out to a real mountain on dugan day without even feeling my car out 😂. That may be a stupid idea, but thats how high my driver confidence sits..

i also know nothing about shock settings and fine tuning cars for the track. So youve got me there. And my dipstick guide really is broken lol. Serious question, if i sold you or heel my bilsteins, what would you do with them? Would you take them to the track? Id love to push the car more with them, with all the other parts. I dont have faith they are ideal.. actually, you said with all of my other cool parts, coilovers are better. I want a beast out of the box, no middle-ground.

ps. i also got the z1 diff brace. I wanted bell raceworks, but it was on backorder.

 

Love this guy.

 

You've missed my point entirely. This isn't about "getting you". ("You got me there.") I could care less about wreaking havoc on your ego. And your claim driving to the car's full potential.... don't confuse spinning out with "taking it to 100%" but glad you're confident.

All I was conveying was a common sense way of doing car modifications. "Get to know the car intimately so that you can make intelligent decisions on fixing what's broke (in your mind.)"

But whatever.

 

Im trying to find the hidden meaning in "get to know the car intimately" lol. Idk if ur suggesting i keep the b12 kit, and make that decision to change, once ive driven more spirited. Or if youre telling me to learn more about cars still. Or, maybe your still upset that i cant drive spirited because the cars not roadworthy.

I feel like in non-overthinking sense, im doing just that. Maybe my decision making skills for mods on a budget,, are not as good as yours lol. But im trying to get what i want out of it, and am in tune with the car, even though its just simple transportation right now.

 

 

He's saying, as we all have been, stop modifying your Z. Stop buying all these parts. Fix what's broken. Get it back to 100% operational status so that everything ifs functioning as it should (baseline). There's that word again...

Once everything is operating as it should, drive it at baseline for a while - like a solid 10K-20K miles. Only then, start modifying the components that do not suit your specific tastes or preferences.

He's not saying you should learn more about cars (even though you could certainly use help in that department), he's saying you need to learn more about your car.

No, you're not. Your decision to unnecessarily modify the Z without getting it to baseline (i.e. EVERYTHING IS FIXED AND NOTHING IS BROKEN) is a poor decision. Budget is irrelevant in that aspect.

And for Mic... fap, fap, fap, fap.