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I love the new z! It seems to be in perfect condition. I looked it over well, and nothing seemed wrong with it. On the drive home, i was going 80mph, and the steering wheel was vibrating some like a bad alignment. I went 95 and 80 again throughout the trip. It didnt always do it at a certain speed, it may be the roadways too. I noticed the front feels a little bouncy and funny over bumps. its like mine but not as bad lol. The tires are newer, horrible off brand tires. The shifter vibrates some. It does seem to have alot of original parts, being 56000 miles. I scared the seller turning tcs off on test drive, with those crappy tires im not used to lol. The throttle is much more responsive, and the oem clutch is so different. I drove it kind of rough. Then, i hopped in mine after driving it home, and i killed mine trying to go in 1st. Its going to be tricky switching between the two.
i reset my service engine light on mine, and put the correct evap valve solenoid back.
Last edited by luv350sass; Apr 21, 2024 at 06:43 AM.
On the drive home, i was going 80mph, and thesteering wheel was vibratingsome like a bad alignment. I went 95 and 80 again throughout the trip. It didnt always do it at a certain speed, it may be the roadways too. I noticed the front feels a little bouncy and funny over bumps. its like mine but not as bad lol. .
Congrats on the newer Z. So does this mean the start of another 49 pages of troubleshooting-sought commentary?
And no, your news did not "blow anyone's mind". I would suspect that the presence of any amount of "blownmind" comes from either/both 4/20 Day and/or head shaking about this new debt magnet.
Congrats on the newer Z. So does this mean the start of another 49 pages of troubleshooting-sought commentary?
lol ill try to not do that. Im actually thinking if i mess w suspension, ill go back and look at that eibach, and other reccomendation. (in the beginning of thread). I dont want to deviate from oem much, or get adjustable arms on this one. I liked the way my vibratechnics "road and track" motor mounts felt. I may get those again. In general, its all oem for this one.
ive got a whole laundry list of stuff i want for mine, ill update as it very slowly progresses.
lol ill try to not do that. Im actually thinking if i mess w suspension, ill go back and look at that eibach, and other reccomendation. (in the beginning of thread). I dont want to deviate from oem much, or get adjustable arms on this one. I liked the way my vibratechnics "road and track" motor mounts felt. I may get those again. In general, its all oem for this one.
ive got a whole laundry list of stuff i want for mine, ill update as it very slowly progresses.
Well, you have that set of B8s (or B6/B12, whatever you had), you could just swap over to use with the stock ZR springs if you're going to change out Z #1's struts to COs.
Well, you have that set of B8s (or B6/B12, whatever you had), you could just swap over to use with the stock ZR springs if you're going to change out Z #1's struts to COs.
well, im still over here overthinking, and wanting to stay divorced rear. (until solid subframe bushings). So i was going to get the spl midlink, and some different divorced setup, with 2.5 in springs that fit the midlink. I may contact spl for help choosing. That would free up my b12 kit, but im scared to use it. Z#1 is having front suspension issues, and the small braking problems feel associated. The new shop diagnosed it as top hats, but i think it may be multiple things still.. I was ripping a corner and tried braking into it, and the pedal was pulsing. This would be okay, except i experienced poor braking, and it was big pulses down to the floor. It didnt really feel like ABS. It felt like the whole brake pedal assembly was moving. When i slam them hard it makes a noise, that sounds like my front shock, or maybe a caliper binding. and it still just handles bumps real awkwardly in the front. The front left spring or shock, makes noises.
plus, from what i understand, at top adjustment, b12 kit still too low. I want to be able to enter driveways and stuff easier, and not buy adjustable arms to get new z aligned.
Last edited by luv350sass; Apr 21, 2024 at 09:30 AM.
Just to clarify, I did not say put OEM suspension parts on. I said to install some new shocks/struts and some springs close to the OEM spring rate. Something like the Eibach Pro-Kit, Whiteline, H&R, or Hotchkis springs (to name a few) paired up with some Bilstein B8 or Koni shocks/struts.
this is the old quote i was thinking of. I guess i have to make sure the springs are not too low. Tein H-tech look good, paired with the b6 shocks
Last edited by luv350sass; Apr 21, 2024 at 11:45 AM.
this is the old quote i was thinking of. I guess i have to make sure the springs are not too low. Tein H-tech look good, paired with the b6 shocks
I've got that exact Tein H-tech spring and Bilstein strut combo on my '06 G35 coupe. It was my DD for a while. I like it. It's not a terribly aggressive setup and still performs well without knocking your teeth loose. I did replace all the bushings to poly and got some adjustable FUCAs to get the alignment into spec.
I've got that exact Tein H-tech spring and Bilstein strut combo on my '06 G35 coupe. It was my DD for a while. I like it. It's not a terribly aggressive setup and still performs well without knocking your teeth loose. I did replace all the bushings to poly and got some adjustable FUCAs to get the alignment into spec.
awesome! i didnt think i needed fuca's, since z1 claims it only drops about 1/4 inch. I guess i do though. I was worried which to choose, b6 said factory height; b8 lowered. So im glad you chimed in. Hopefully i can spend alot less on this ones setup, and still enjoy it as a spirited daily driver.
Last edited by luv350sass; Apr 22, 2024 at 02:45 AM.
Technically, the B6 should be used when you're staying at stock height and the B8 whenever you go lower. The H-tech do lower it, but it is a very modest drop - maybe half an inch, if that. The B8 is probably recommended for that application, but the B6 struts have been fine. At the time of my install, there seemed to be a worldwide Bilstein shortage and the B6s were the only ones I could source quickly.
You might be ok without adjustable FUCAs. I did the springs, struts, and bushings all at the same time. I was rolling on some older tires and didn't care if they wore out, so I didn't bother to get an alignment until I had basically shredded the inside rubber (likely due to incorrect toe and/or camber) and got some new tires. The G35 is a slightly different animal than the Z and the ZR is also different than the Z coupe with regard to handling characteristics, but you should be fine with that setup.
Technically, the B6 should be used when you're staying at stock height and the B8 whenever you go lower. The H-tech do lower it, but it is a very modest drop - maybe half an inch, if that. The B8 is probably recommended for that application, but the B6 struts have been fine. At the time of my install, there seemed to be a worldwide Bilstein shortage and the B6s were the only ones I could source quickly.
You might be ok without adjustable FUCAs. I did the springs, struts, and bushings all at the same time. I was rolling on some older tires and didn't care if they wore out, so I didn't bother to get an alignment until I had basically shredded the inside rubber (likely due to incorrect toe and/or camber) and got some new tires. The G35 is a slightly different animal than the Z and the ZR is also different than the Z coupe with regard to handling characteristics, but you should be fine with that setup.
Awesome. I tried to order the tein h-techs from z1. It was on backorder. They said the convertible ones (had coupe and conv option), is not made anymore. The rep i spoke with on the phone, said the coupe is prob just diff spring rates. He still recommended against it, on the convertible. Im also learning these h-techs will give the convertible a .5 in drop, instead of the .2x drop. I hate the stock springs kind of because body roll. Yet, to save money and troubles, ill prob get the b6 kit only. Ill keep the stock springs.
Sorry Mic, ill try to stop talking about this new z 😂
The ZR is heavier than the coupe (318 lbs. to be precise), but I don't think the spring rates for the coils are different. I guess that extra weight would give a slightly lower drop. I have Hotchkis springs (now discontinued) on my ZR. I don't recall there being any fitment issues between the coupe and ZR.
so, no new updates really, since I cant afford anything. Saturdays have not been available at work recently. The ER visit ended up being 3700, and im going to dentist w cavities etc. Atleast, im taking care of other parts of my life rn, while i rack up the miles on my new convertible.
The convertible hr actually handles about as good as the blue one lol. You can feel the extra weight too, and soft suspension. All it needed was some ecs02's, and an alignment. The alignment still wasnt perfect, as pictured below. The "expert" lol recommended i get adjustable front upper control arms. Someone else told me its probably a worn part, and to start w ball joints. Im interested in these czp ball joints, but the one review is terrible lol. pics below for that too.
The plan for the DE, is to mainly get the engine squared away, but also suspension. Its sad that the handling, still is so wonky and quirky. The "expert" says top hats. So, i guess i could install my new true coilovers, and work on top hats first. Im actually considering paying someone to inspect the steering components, or frame again. It was hit on that passenger side hard before i bought it, and it doesnt feel right. The passenger headlight is not oem, bumper seems new. Its mainly bumps, and when you switch directions on deep long turns. i guess also when you try to drive straight, it has that squiggle to it still.
Im also considering dumping all the advice and getting some crappy k sport or d2 tarmac rally coils. I like the idea of the valving being tested in house etc. But i read the kws/ohlins may not withstand the rally environment, and theyre too stiff/ not made for it. Im still trying to make my 350z, a rwd evo. The DE is not that lol. I keep making nasty scrapes. Idk if its my front bumper, or front sway bar. But if i go in a hill dip thats too tight, im too low or something. I want to raise it back up some maybe, and make it handle well still. Or work on clearance issues. It needs to atleast be able to jump too.
That type of racing i probably need a full cage and seats and all. I want to do that, and strip other weight out. Im so far away though 😞
edit: ohh and im getting some subframe bushing collars for DE lol. My idea is the install is easy. I will wait until i upgrade my diff, to change bushings. This will hopefully stiffen it some for my true coilovers, and i can even use the collars on my hr, once i do upgrade bushings.
Last edited by luv350sass; Jun 30, 2024 at 06:43 AM.
Glad to hear you're satisfied with the HR roadster. Post-alignment specs don't look terrible and toe is squared away, so at least you won't be chewing through tires. It's funny how things work out when you get a properly sorted car in the first place
I think you should go with option C - swap over all your new goodies from the "never will be right" DE to the new Z which is already at... wait for it... baseline! And then strip it, cage it, and turn it into an open-air "RWD Evo." Then, sell shltbox old Z and learn something from this experience.
I never did my own work on my cars and had an evo and 240sx. I havent had a fast car in 5 years and just got a 78k mile 2003 350z. Im very happy and always wanted one.
Im off to a bad start though. I want everything in the world and have no money too lol. Im still going to put expensive quality parts in this thing. My goal is to have it be a road beast. Perfect for autox / road racing, but not conforming to any qualification rules for classes..
but instead of changing suspension first. The trans is screwed and takes minutes to get into reverse. a little grinding in other gears. It also had a redneck straightpipe.. and some mushroom looking single pipe air intake.
So i took out a 5k dollar loan i have 3 months to pay or its way more and got
1. brand new cd009 trans
2. lightweight flywheel and clutch
3. tomei exhaust.
So heres my questions
1. My landlord has a lift at a shop he uses sometimes and claims to be able to do my transmission and exhaust for cheaper. Given my financial situation it seems great. How much can be messed up installing trans? How smart of a tech do i need if i really care about this car? If he does mess something up will it be easy to pinpoint and fix? I plan on maybe even getting a beater and putting this thing on ice in garage. and on next engine boost it... so big plans in far future. For now im in rental, and its about to be my daily driver..
2.computer management off the rip or tune? The only quote for tune flashed to stock ecu so far was high and on dyno. 1000 plus 100 for license. I want engine management someday. maybe aem? or is something better than aem. I guess im going to wait for the trans parts to be installed before tune. Im going to try to do this all quickly and not run it like i want until after tune. stick to low rpms..
3. I know wrong section for this but i love how car handles and the thing came w suspension bottoming out on bumps and they said it had a few new parts and rest in box to make it great. and they are stupid kids.. It looks like it has aftermarket control arms and they gave me a brand new rev9 hyperstreet II coilover kit. Not what id buy at all cheap crap. and i have a feeling itll be hard to dial in and not feel right. I am having it put on anyways so it driveable and i can focus on engine and trans first. Then later in game get suspension parts i want. Any reccomendations on what to tell them at shop when i have these poor quality coilovers thrown on?
4. lastly, what should i do immediately after some of these main things? Any overlooked important small mods if i want to ride high rpms alot and want it reliable? eg. steel braided lines, diff brace etc. I want this thing perfect someday.
Thanks and apologies for long post. i hope
im in right section, i felt alot of it was engine and drivetrain related.
LOL!!! this is either the biggest troll I've seen here or he thinks we're in Peru.
LOL!!! this is either the biggest troll I've seen here or he thinks we're in Peru.
Peru? cuz im broke?
Originally Posted by Heel Til I Die
Glad to hear you're satisfied with the HR roadster. Post-alignment specs don't look terrible and toe is squared away, so at least you won't be chewing through tires. It's funny how things work out when you get a properly sorted car in the first place
I think you should go with option C - swap over all your new goodies from the "never will be right" DE to the new Z which is already at... wait for it... baseline! And then strip it, cage it, and turn it into an open-air "RWD Evo." Then, sell shltbox old Z and learn something from this experience.
Don't overthink it. Just do it.
Ohh man idk if i can do that lol. Its still alot of money to even do that, lol. I like lightweight cars too, and the windshield visibility in DE. I definitely will do it, if someone will tell me the DE is not fixable. So far, nobody can find the problem, other than top hats. Its nice having the well sorted hr. The clutch is not perfect. Its so tempting to do the csc delete, and clutch/flywheel. then maybe b6 shocks. Because thats all it needs, that i know of! I want to focus on DE though.
I went ahead and affirm paid an order, and got in more debt lol. Its just the new z1 csc delete, wont be shipping until October. I wanted to get the order in. I thought about it, and ive been putting alot of miles on new convertible. The clutch isnt perfect, and i dont want stuff failing. Plus, its so close to baseline. Then i can take my time, sorting DE coupe out.
I got the road race v2 package. I wanted exedy, but the money savings made me go z1. It comes with a z1 road race clutch and flywheel, and their new csc delete, and some small parts. Tilton master cylinder again. The b6 shocks, and hyaku ball joints. the b6 shock came looking like this, z1 strikes again. I hope its ok. its been taped up by them.. I also have motor mounts already, and will buy a trans mount. I can feel one of the two, is bad. I will hold off on bushing set, for now.
Last edited by luv350sass; Jul 9, 2024 at 05:14 PM.
I went ahead and affirm paid an order, and got in more debt lol. Its just the new z1 csc delete, wont be shipping until October. I wanted to get the order in. I thought about it, and ive been putting alot of miles on new convertible. The clutch isnt perfect, and i dont want stuff failing. Plus, its so close to baseline. Then i can take my time, sorting DE coupe out.
I got the road race v2 package. I wanted exedy, but the money savings made me go z1. It comes with a z1 road race clutch and flywheel, and their new csc delete, and some small parts. Tilton master cylinder again. The b6 shocks, and hyaku ball joints. the b6 shock came looking like this, z1 strikes again. I hope its ok. its been taped up by them.. I also have motor mounts already, and will buy a trans mount. I can feel one of the two, is bad. I will hold off on bushing set, for now.
Just like the other car. Unnecessarily "fixing" things that ain't broke.
I'm gonna say it. You're going to take your perfectly fine "new" roadster and junk it up with totally useless parts that you think it needs... and then complain about them "not being right". WTF is wrong with you? You can't leave well enough alone? Gawd, no wonder I usually just ignore this thread. Why did I open it today? My neck hurts now from shaking my head so hard.
But like they say, "your car to do what you want with it no matter how lame."
Just like the other car. Unnecessarily "fixing" things that ain't broke.
I'm gonna say it. You're going to take your perfectly fine "new" roadster and junk it up with totally useless parts that you think it needs... and then complain about them "not being right". WTF is wrong with you? You can't leave well enough alone? Gawd, no wonder I usually just ignore this thread. Why did I open it today? My neck hurts now from shaking my head so hard.
But like they say, "your car to do what you want with it no matter how lame."
I dont think its fine. The csc failure can happen while driving, and that would suck. Under hard acceleration sometimes, the rpm needle has a wiggle to it. I also smelled clutch strong after hard acceleration. Shifts are very difficult to do smoothly. It also makes a metal clank when shifting, and it sounds/feels like it has an aluminum flywheel, but it doesnt. (to my knowledge, should be oem) It does still shift, and go down street. It has cloudy clutch fluid.
The shocks are oem, and im at 65k miles now. The car handles fine, but has a bumpy feeling at all times. Especially, on rough roads. The shifter vibrates like crazy, and i can feel "too good" the engine start.
I think based on everything observed, that this would be the perfect place to start. Im sure the bushings are older as well, but I cannot afford everything.
Last edited by luv350sass; Jul 10, 2024 at 01:48 AM.
