Yep, there's the first thing he should do. Quit the FB groups. They're all drifter wanna be DB kids.

 

Perhaps OP should stay then.

Also - are we seriously coming up on the anniversary of this thread's inception?

 

Lol, you all have helped whether u realize it, or not. I'll stop asking for so much advice though.

The third engine is because i think i screwed up. I probably wont buy an engine again, thats not tested. Im worried it sat longer than they claimed, and i dropped it. I dont have alot of faith it will work, without a rebuild. The rebuilds are expensive, or sketchy, im learning. The other engine is in my car, and using oil. Im thinking third engine will be best.

Im going to try and get a tune soon, among other things. Im getting new tires again this week, but will only mount two. I know you all said no 4in intake, and to fix the engine first. I dont think im going to rebuild this one though, unless i pull it before it blows. I could leave the 4 in intake i have off, and tune it. I want a tune, so it runs correctly.

 

Thats cold.. I still think im a good driver. Ive already had some close calls, and feel like a kid though. I had burn marks on my hand, saving it in the rain the other night. The tire wear def changes alot.

edit: ohh and I didnt tell you all, because I want to wait forever, and make my car nicer. I also want to practice heel toe, and go in a1. But I've decided im going to Chin track days.

 

The only place I would buy a used engine is from LKQ.

 

Lol. Weren't you the dude drifting on the street with a passenger riding with a tall boy in the cup holder?

You should probably not get just a third, but third and fourth engines. I mean, one of them has got to work properly, right?

 

So, im taking your sarcasm, as that maybe i should get someone to clean, and inspect this other one first? I really regret buying a vq off facebook marketplace. Maybe, i should have spoke to you all about that, first. Its going to suck if I put it in, and spin a bearing immediately. I wouldn't mind learning how to rebuild it, but im sure thats a laughing matter.

edit: oil catch can after 700ish miles. Im at like 3200 miles on the oil itself, and added a fresh few quarts almost, topping off, throughout the period. I didnt think the oil on the dipstick was even that black.

 

Well, I have an update on the car. I still want to get the engine squared away, but idk when. Im filling it up with oil regularly, and may tune it soon against your wishes. The last shop said it was running rich, I thought it should run lean FBO. I was told the kid who owned it for a bit, knew how to tune. I think it would be healthy for the engine to be tuned, especially if im going to keep rocking it.

Brakes, and true coilovers are on my list. I need the go pro. Getting the bumper/fender liner fixed too. I picked up some new depo headlights, and got them professionally ppf coated with xpel. I got diode dynamics bulbs. I also got some cheap amazon bulbs, and breather vents. I plan on using that, to temporarily fix my oem headlights. All of this stuff, will take the whole year..

I got the front lower spl bushings, that socalz didnt send, when i thought they did. I just had the front lower, and shock mount bushings done, finally. It was a nightmare. The front lower arms on my car, were oem spec but not oem. The spl bushings, were barely too loose. I had to pay over 900 bucks for new ones, and reschedule my alignment. The front was handling funny. I hope its fixed now. Im curious what my shop means, by checking fasteners.

 

It would be healthy for the engine to correct the oil burning issue. If you need to add a quart of oil every 1K-2K miles, then getting it tuned before addressing that MAJOR problem is just throwing bad money after worse money. But, that seems to be the trend with this, so please - carry on.

Alternatively, save your money on unnecessary "upgrades" and fix/rebuild the engine. Is there an echo in here?

They probably mean that since solid spherical bushings are less forgiving than OEM or poly, the bolts need to be checked to make sure they haven't backed out due to increased vibration or added stress.

Or they're just covering their hindquarters from an improper install and inevitable issues down the road once it starts acting squirrelly.

 

Okay, lets change the tune, and ask, who would u have rebuild the engine? I do have two, and would like to save them. Jasper is who Nissan sends you to, and its pricey, with mixed results. Soho sounds great, they didnt reply to my email. There are some decent local guys, that are not vq specialists. I think the main reason I was going to swap in a third engine, is 2k dollars for the engine. With the labor of install, I cant afford a 7k dollar rebuild. I can transport the engine, if i get a truck rental. Especially, my other one i bought.

Another thing holding me back man, is they left three dinosaur calipers on. The brakes arent as good as i would like, and will make a malfunction noise under real heavy braking. Ive got this thing setup pretty good, and cant help but to go ahead and enjoy it. I would rather my engine blow, then fly off a mountain with mediocre brakes. The bumper and headlight problems bother me more too. The vq runs if you fill it with oil!

 

I've personally had to replace 3 Jasper engines. They suck at rebuilding. They are such high volume that they really don't do a great job. They have a great warranty though. All three were paid for by Jasper, including the labor.

 

Get a warranty used engine from LKQ. Can't beat the Nissan tech's for quality assurance, but honestly this whole thread is insanity. You could of bought a reliable turbo 2003 for under 10k

 

What do you mean by dinosaur calipers? 3 original OEM-style floating calipers? You don't have brakes on all four corners??? What's on the fourth corner?

But in all seriousness, unless you're at the track, you're likely not experiencing brake fade with OEM calipers. You can get better pads to help with stopping power unless your rotors are toast. If your rotors are original, at 125K miles, they probably are gone. You can confirm by measuring the runout and thickness.

What is this "malfunction noise" you speak of?

 

The brakes make a loud bssssjjjjjjjjjjtttttttt noise. Like its releasing pressure or slipped or something idk lol. Ive also heard a different noise, a clank that may be trans. It also doesnt really brake good when this happens. It takes a second after the noise when i slam the pedal super hard, then it brakes hard. It's delayed. I dont think this is brake fade, they are fine in traffic, this is when driving hard, trying to make a better time. I asked for them to change all four calipers, because i thought my powerstop kit (I didnt open and look at), had new calipers. My shop instead, only replaced one that was malfunctioning. I have one new oem(i asked for oem, maybe just oem spec), and 3 from 2003. I couldnt be too upset, because i could barely afford the shop bill.

edit: and always thanks heel for being a big help. even the fastener thing helped. I talked to my shop too, and i wasnt sure if it was just the hardware holding arms together, or some weird titanium clasps like i saw on my set of nismo arms. Im overthinking it as always.

 

Yes, before this happened, i bought a 3k dollar buick. The plan was, to keep it on the road for cheap, and save for my car. I could not tell condition by test driving, or looking at it. They had me convinced, an older car will be a little rougher on auto trans. Ive never owned an auto trans, only driven new rentals. It had everything wrong, and mileage faked with new cluster. I had to sell it for 500 dollars. I was renting expensive cars. I jumped into this, and made bad decisions. Atleast i like my car

 

well, drove the car home, and the front suspension problem is still there... All of the front bushings are new. It makes popping or bumping noises from front left, over bumps, and bumps affect the handling. Ill add it to the list, to take it to the other mechanic, for proper diagnosis.

 

Christ, your rear camber is f***ed! Fix that. A street car should have very little rear camber. It reduces the size of your contact patch. The front should have some, but not that much.

 

I dont want camber. I want it ideal. The guy who aligned me really knows what he is doing. However, he aligns racers, and idiots who stunt around town. I didnt talk to him this time, but i think he did the best he could do, and i need the true coilovers. I dont have true coilovers, and the nismo arm says its designed for trues.


NISMO Billet Rear Toe Arms are designed for the Z or G owner who has converted to "true" style rear coilovers and wish to remove the stock mid-link / spring-bucket. NISMO Rear Toe Links replace the stock mid links to provide a wide range of toe adjustment, which is necessary for lowered cars or for performance alignments

 

no, you want you dont need. What you NEED is something like the spc front and rear kit

 

It's hard to diagnose sounds over the internet, but it could be air in the lines, brake booster, or something else. You could try running DOT 5.1 (not DOT 5) if you think you're boiling your brake fluid since it has a higher boiling point than standard DOT 3. One would think that a mechanic's shop would have properly bled and installed your brakes, but there's no telling.

Get some adjustable rear camber arms and/or adjustable rear traction arms to get that camber fixed. Coilovers aren't going to solve that problem. If anything, they'll likely create more of them.