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Keep paying the guy who took two hours for a 20 minute door handle.
well its actually a diff shop im trying out lol. and the impact was on other side, after i broke it using a ratchet, because i thought 40 in lbs meant 40lbs of force. im used to being careful w impact and it worked well lol. but im more worried about quality than cost. It sucks im still having shifter woes, but its not too bad.
well its actually a diff shop im trying out lol. and the impact was on other side, after i broke it using a ratchet, because i thought 40 in lbs meant 40lbs of force. im used to being careful w impact and it worked well lol. but im more worried about quality than cost. It sucks im still having shifter woes, but its not too bad.
What shifter?
Did shop align the new shifter? Sounds like that could be the issue.
IIRC, OP got some Coolerworx-type replica short shifter. I don't think the normal alignment procedure is going to work.
Install OEM shifter assembly. Throw aftermarket short shifter in trash.
I already gave my shifter support bracket away to shop, edit: he said they have it, and will save it for me. //Yes, Mic, you all told me not to get the shifter i got. I love the height of it, and the feel shifting into gears. Only a few high gears and reverse are adjustable, and its failed me. It works good most of the time, but most isnt good enough when you need 3rd gear now. Im surprised these expensive products truly are trash. Its tempting to buy a coolerworx shifter, and see if my new shop, can make it work any better lol. That shifter support bracket was heavy too.
Last edited by luv350sass; Jan 30, 2024 at 05:12 AM.
Im surprised these expensive products truly are trash. Its tempting to buy a coolerworx shifter, and see if my new shop, can make it work any better lol. That shifter support bracket was heavy too.
No, don't do that. Keep buying knock offs... For entertainment reasons.
IIRC, OP got some Coolerworx-type replica short shifter. I don't think the normal alignment procedure is going to work.
Install OEM shifter assembly. Throw aftermarket short shifter in trash.
Originally Posted by luv350sass
I already gave my shifter support bracket away to shop, edit: he said they have it, and will save it for me. //Yes, Mic, you all told me not to get the shifter i got. I love the height of it, and the feel shifting into gears. Only a few high gears and reverse are adjustable, and its failed me. It works good most of the time, but most isnt good enough when you need 3rd gear now. Im surprised these expensive products truly are trash. Its tempting to buy a coolerworx shifter, and see if my new shop, can make it work any better lol. That shifter support bracket was heavy too.
So it's not a Coolerworx? Bummer, that's a pretty slick unit.
But even if not a traditional unit there's got to be some adjustment available. There are no "fits all first try" anything out there.) What's the specific name? Must be some resource out there.
Unless it was built in the land of my forefathers and translated instructions suck. (Which most do.) 😆
So it's not a Coolerworx? Bummer, that's a pretty slick unit.
But even if not a traditional unit there's got to be some adjustment available. There are no "fits all first try" anything out there.) What's the specific name? Must be some resource out there.
Unless it was built in the land of my forefathers and translated instructions suck. (Which most do.) 😆
Its the irp short shifter, which is exactly like the coolerworx. and i thought it was a nice piece too! My only problems are very occasional issues, of getting into first or third fast. As far as i know this is the only adjustability.
*Adjustable bolts for 5th -6th speed and reverse gear blocking
I do hear loose metal on rare occasion too, under the shifter.
Last edited by luv350sass; Jan 30, 2024 at 09:09 AM.
I wonder if that's normal for that screw to be backed out like that... It also looks like you're missing one of the four socket cap screws to mount it. Is everything tightened down?I
I wonder if that's normal for that screw to be backed out like that... It also looks like you're missing one of the four socket cap screws to mount it. Is everything tightened down?I
Idk heel lol. I just popped this plastic thing off, i noticed one of the 4 screws is missing as well.. It feels solid, and doesnt move around. It does sound like something is loose, but its rare i hear it, and i dont think its the base of the shifter. It sounds like where the shifter connects to trans is loose.
Last edited by luv350sass; Jan 30, 2024 at 10:17 AM.
New mechanic takes pictures, and has a nice sti, and some old muscle cars. He also says hes done an hr swap. He played with my shifter briefly, and couldnt see anything wrong with it. He said maybe the gates are tight, and im barely missing it. I swear tho its like the gates randomly behave diff.. He also said it did it to him in first gear, but thats normal.
just got y-pipe put on, exhaust adjusted since i knocked it off and put it back, coilpacks, and broken screw removed. (fell in ditch by driveway when it was icy). He said the screw removal was harder than he thought, and took him 1.5 hours. I prob shouldnt have drilled it. 983 dollars w tax.
I would say that you probably could have saved a couple hundred bucks in labor by getting a screw extractor, but then again, you thought that in-lbs and ft-lbs were the same so it's probably best that you left that in the hands of more qualified professionals.
What was the reason for new coilpacks? Was it misfiring?
so it's probably best that you left that in the hands of more qualified professionals.
What was the reason for new coilpacks? Was it misfiring?
I actually drilled it twice w two drill bits, and tried some diff sizes of screw extractors, that may have been wrong kind or too big. Maybe i could have kept trying, but i felt like i may make it worse.
I bought them when i got the loan for the headers to do w trans. idk, no reason other than, the spark plugs were super old, and i couldnt find a maintenance record they had ever been changed. The idle is a lil rougher at times than others. sometimes it seems pretty smooth, and other times i see it moving around alot. its always small changes in rpm atleast, and nothing real bad. We will see if i notice this fixing it.
4in steel pipe from y back= super ricey and loud af. horrible
tomei from y back= still kind of ricey and loud, but not as loud as before.
tomei cat back plus tome strt pipes= great sounding. pretty loud. can be droney. definitely not that good for a car, that never gets pushed. Sounds better 3k rpms and up.
tomei y pipe and strt pipes w z1 touring exhaust=pretty badass and alot more quiet
z1 touring exhaust w resonated modular y-pipe w an extra resonator, and tomei strt pipes= still good sounding. I now know what people mean by "rounded out" the sound. Its barely more quiet, maybe a good bit more if driving harder. It is less rough though. I kind of like rough, but more quiet is nice.
I actually drilled it twice w two drill bits, and tried some diff sizes of screw extractors, that may have been wrong kind or too big. Maybe i could have kept trying, but i felt like i may make it worse.
I bought them when i got the loan for the headers to do w trans. idk, no reason other than, the spark plugs were super old, and i couldnt find a maintenance record they had ever been changed. The idle is a lil rougher at times than others. sometimes it seems pretty smooth, and other times i see it moving around alot. its always small changes in rpm atleast, and nothing real bad. We will see if i notice this fixing it.
4in steel pipe from y back= super ricey and loud af. horrible
tomei from y back= still kind of ricey and loud, but not as loud as before.
tomei cat back plus tome strt pipes= great sounding. pretty loud. can be droney. definitely not that good for a car, that never gets pushed. Sounds better 3k rpms and up.
tomei y pipe and strt pipes w z1 touring exhaust=pretty badass and alot more quiet
z1 touring exhaust w resonated modular y-pipe w an extra resonator, and tomei strt pipes= still good sounding. I now know what people mean by "rounded out" the sound. Its barely more quiet, maybe a good bit more if driving harder. It is less rough though. I kind of like rough, but more quiet is nice.
Not sure what you're getting at with the "thinking out loud"" regarding exhaust. Are you stating stuff or asking for opinions or...??? You were talking about coil packs then *bam*, exhaust configurations with commentary of their riceness. For????
Not sure what you're getting at with the "thinking out loud"" regarding exhaust. Are you stating stuff or asking for opinions or...??? You were talking about coil packs then *bam*, exhaust configurations with commentary of their riceness. For????
I didnt need any help with the exhaust, so just stating stuff. Im a member of the fb groups, and alot of people seem interested in exhaust sounds. I was really just reviewing them. It really surprised me today, when the three extra resonators didnt help much. It will be a few months of saving money again, before more z work.
Up next, is either tune and 4 in intake, so its not running rich, or lean.
Or i can do the underbody protector and bumper, first.
or i can put the plenum spacer and ported stuff on, before tune. Maybe on a third good engine, that I order and is good. It will delay the tune so much, is why im considering waiting on that, and retuning later.
Last edited by luv350sass; Feb 1, 2024 at 02:20 AM.
What should i do? lol. even less talking, and mostly shop updates? make my responses shorter?
What you should do is stop asking for advice since you're clearly going to do whatever you want anyways. I mean, it's not like any of us have been doing this for 35 years or anything.
Up next, is either tune and 4 in intake, so its not running rich, or lean.
Or i can do the underbody protector and bumper, first.
or i can put the plenum spacer and ported stuff on, before tune. Maybe on a third good engine, that I order and is good. It will delay the tune so much, is why im considering waiting on that, and retuning later.
I didnt need any help with the exhaust, so just stating stuff. Im a member of the fb groups, and alot of people seem interested in exhaust sounds. I was really just reviewing them. It really surprised me today, when the three extra resonators didnt help much. It will be a few months of saving money again, before more z work.
Up next, is either tune and 4 in intake, so its not running rich, or lean.
Or i can do the underbody protector and bumper, first.
or i can put the plenum spacer and ported stuff on, before tune. Maybe on a third good engine, that I order and is good. It will delay the tune so much, is why im considering waiting on that, and retuning later.
