He was boosting somewhere in the 20 - 30psi range on the 20g's and with the stroker kit, so anywhere from 500 - 700 i'd say.

It was caused by him being hit by someone else, i'd have to ask my friend again what happened, I was glad to hear it wasn't from too much power or him causing the accident though. The mods were insured and now he has a G35c which is getting a custom single turbo setup and I believe he's getting AEBS to stroke the new one as well.

 

guys am thinking of getting the 11.0 :1 or the 11.5:1 stroker soon ..in about 6 months ..
ok ....when would i want to get the 11.0:1 and when i should get the 11.5:1 ?
did any one install it and dyno runn it ?
any new info ?
i feal ever one forgot about it ...why?
is it a bad thing to think about ?
i personly want to be 100% NA
i would love to race in my 6cl NA drag class ....with my 4.3 undercover 350Z and get a 13.2 sec run
so please guys any updates or good news about the product ?

 

lately I've been thinking of going that route too. I'm just not sure I want to deal with a FI car quite yet since the Z is my daily driver. I want it to be reliable and bombproof. I want to be able to take it to the track here in the hot AZ summers and not worry about my engine blowing up.

Two questions I have are:

I've read that some people don't think the AEBS stroker kit would be good for daily driving - that the sleeves trap more heat in than the darton sleeves. For NA would it be an issue?

What if later down the road I want to switch from the 11 or 11.5 pistons to the 8.5 pistons? Would it be a big deal? Does AEBS use just regular forged 8.5 pistons similar to the 8.5 arias pistons? Would they be interchangeable? Would I have to have AEBS install them and balance the engine again? So Just wondering how much trouble it'd be to switch it from an NA motor to a good FI motor.

what sort of NA power would the stroker give you? Do you just take the 4.3/3.5 multiplied by either 11/10.3 or 11.5/10.3, then multiply that by your current whp? Would that be a pretty good aproximation? That'd mean for someone with 270whp, and the 11:1 pistons you'd be at around 354whp which isn't too bad. People with 290whp NA before the kit would be doing 380NA after it.

I bet it sounds mean as hell too

seems like a much less complicated route to go - just need to upgrade to a return style fuel system/bigger injectors and ECU flash/piggyback and you're set

 

Yes, Darton sleeves have the pockets for cooling whereas AEBS doesn't. No one knows, i'm sure if you ran it really hard though, the Dartons would be in better shape.

You could. CR is determined by the shape of the piston head. I'm sure any reliable engine shop could swap the pistons.

Just a rough estimate: 350-400rwhp.

Not IMO. It's going to take longer...and be more expensive than getting rods, pistons, ARP head and main studs, and sleeves.

What turbo kit are you planning on going with?

 

Get the 11.5:1 CR.

No one has done it on an N/A Z as far as we know.

Nope.

Because the company takes so long to do it, and hardly anyone has done it to an N/A Z and posted about it.

 

was thinking of getting the APS kit, but am now thinking I might want to hold off on FI for awhile longer

how much would it cost for labor to install the pistons, rods, studs and sleeves? I'm guessing parts and labor would be around $6k right?

Doing the AEBS kit would be more like probably around $11k?

 

ARP head and main studs = $400-450
Pistons = $600-800 (Arias are ~ $620)
Rods = $1200-1500 (Pauter are ~$1200)
Sleeves = $1200-2500 (Darton M.I.D. are $1200)
So that's $3400 in parts at the cheapest, $5250 at the most. I have no idea what install costs are, probably $5500-$7500 at the most if I had to give an estimate of parts and labor.

Yeah, the AEBS stroker would cost $8k at the cheapest for parts and then $3000-5000 for labor.

 

I had heard a quote that they would actually do the whole install for $8000 if you shipped them the block.

 

$8000 for parts and install on the stroker kit?

that sounds like a way better deal than buying parts yourself and having it done. That'd be about parallel to the cost of FI when you factor in the engine install and adding fuel system/ECU/tuning

according to http://www.cj-motorsports.com/products/aebs.htm
AEBS charges $1300 to reassemble the shortblock and $350 to do bearings

so it'd be about $10k to have the work done and shipping the engine etc

maybe $1000 to drop the engine back in?

$2000 for AAM fuel system, injectors and install

$1000 to assemble the heads and misc stuff

$500 for piggyback

$1000 tuning?

so maybe $15500 or so?

The 2 main things I'm concerned about are the redline getting possibly lowered - i'm not sure why it'd happen though since the engine will be bulletproof at that point right?

and the heat issue in the AEBS sleeves

getting the APS kit and getting it installed would be in the $12000 or higher range - and that's without a return fuel system, so it'd probably cost the same as the APS kit, with less power, but who knows if it'll actually be more reliable than the APS it if the AEBS sleeves get heatsoaked too easily

 

I doubt you are going to find a place that offers the stroker kit and install for $8000, JMO.

The redline will be higher.

The APS kit and installation is around $10000, not 12000. It's only $7500 for the kit, and a $2500 install is about $500 over normal price.

 

for the APS setup, i meant 12000 for the kit, install, tuning, gauges and install, jethot coating etc

 

i do want this thing so bad ..........but i want to see or talk to some one who alrady did it ....wich i cant find !!!
dos any one...know or can estimate the 1/4 mile with the 11.0:1 kit would be on a stock Z !!

 

you can always try a quarter mile calculator for a good approximate

http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

be sure to add in the weight of the driver


it'd be probably low 12's - faster than a C6 corvette

 

**** man ..... why did u say that (faster than a C6 corvette) !!!!
now i must get it .......and soon

 

you'd also be faster than a corvette with a TT or a good SC+cams+headers for less money, but it'd be a riskier setup

In the other nearby thread, we're talking about doing the stroker kit with high compression and big shots of nitrous - you'd be faster than any viper/Z06 and then some with that setup and probably be more reliable than FI

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hreadid=111714



I wonder if it's possible to simply buy the crankshaft, pistons and rods from AEBS and get darton sleeves and have someone else install it all. Then you don't have the potential heatsoak sleeve issue

 

You could. But IMO, you risk quite a bit with an aftermarket crankshaft, i've heard of more aftermarket crankshafts failing than stock crankshafts (as most of the stocks are forged).

 

you mean it's risky because of the installer or the part?

 

The part.

 

in the case of the AEBS, isn't the crankshaft actually equal or stronger than the stock one?

 

We don't know. But, considering companies that DO make good crankshafts (Crower, etc.) and they fail, I wouldn't put it past AEBS.