I've been running this type of catch can on all of my cars for many years. All parts are available at Home Depot or Lowes (except the hose, which is available at any car parts store).

List of parts:

1)Husky air compressor water filter, part #HDA70400AV (Home Depot) or
Campbell Hausfeld air compressor water filter, part #IFA10600AV (Loews)

2) Two (2) A-293 3/8" to 1/4" MIP brass barbs. The bag should be white and yellow. (Both Home Depot and Loews sell Watts brand)



3) Teflon tape

4) About two (2) feet of 3/8" fuel hose

5) Two (2) 1/4" to 5/8" worm gear type hose clamps.



Instructions:

First thing you need to do is take apart the water filter and discard the white element inside (there may also be a plastic piece that looks like a gear. Discard it as well). Then reassemble the container.

Next, wrap some teflon tape around the threads of the barbs. It's important to wrap the tape in the proper direction so that it doesn't come off the threads when you screw the barbs in to the container.

Screw the barbs in to the container. Brass fittings are tapered on the treaded end, so don't overtighten them. You want them pretty tight, but if you go too far, you'll break the container.

Now figure out a good place to mount your catch can. I mounted mine to my APS strut bar.





Once you've figured out where to mount the can, cut your hose accordingly.

Attach the hose to the catch can using the worm gear clamps.

Now, remove the factory PCV hose from the passenger's side (US. Driver's side in AUS) valvecover and the front of the intake manifold. Discard the hose, but keep the clamps.

Now attach the catch can to the PCV valve and the intake manifold using the factory hose clamps.
IMPORTANT: Be sure the arrow on top of the catch can is pointing towards the intake manifold. This arrow indicates the direction of airflow.

That's it. You're done. Be sure to check the oil level in your catch can once a week until you know how long it takes to fill up.

 

Quick one: Wouldn't it be better to put some steel wool in there for the oil to condense on? Or does the internal arrangement of the filter housing provide sufficient baffling?

 

I have been using the larger unit that Home Depot sells. It has 3/8" npt fittings that mate up to the stock 3/8" hose fittings on the engine without having to reduce size.

Plus, the unit is bigger and can hold more oil.

It works well.

 

No need. The oil mist condenses easily due to it's weight. Feel free to try it though, if you want.

The whole point of mine is that it's small (easy to mount) and cheap (less than $20 for all the parts). Mine uses 3/8" barbs. The thread is 1/4" MIP, but the actual diameter is 1/2". If yours uses 3/8" hose (stock diameter) and has barb fittings, the inside diameter of the barb is 1/4", just like mine.

 

Hey I just went to check those out and noticed that they were made of plastic. I dont know about you but I dont really want to start using something that has a warning stating not to use it with oils. Are there any metal alternatives or have you been fine using the plastic ones?

 

Been using them for years. Never had a problem.

 

Think the warning on there is because it is used for air compressors, by nature high psi. BTW, I went to Lowes, they said they no longer carry that brand, haven't for a year or so. But the Depot had the one you listed, and both had the barbs. Nice. I picked up some steel wool also to try out.

A little more information for those that might want it. According to the package insert, Husky has a metal bowl available as an optional item, for those who are afraid of using clear plastic (I am not).

Metal Replacement Bowl Part number SV040900AV

In addition, they offer a metal "L" shaped bracket, that might be useful for mounting this filter in another location than the OP.

Optional Wall Bracket, part number SX129900AV

According to the package insert, call Replacement parts, 1-800-543-6400, to order. These two parts were not listed on the Husky Tools webpage. Price was not listed.

They did list the 3/8ths filter that Quadcam posted about on the webpage, a picture of both below. They stated it can be had at Home Depot, however, mine only had the 1/4" one. I am interested in a larger opening for the driver's side, this side according to reports produces less oil than the PVC valve side, but I do want to catch can it also. It is a larger diameter than the PVC side. Quadcam, what is the inside diameter of the barb attachements?

I intend to install on the PVC valve side today, I will run it for a set number of miles without steel wool inside, and then the same with steel wool, and compare the volume of oil removed. I will post the results.

To the OP, this is a great idea, on many fronts.

Way cheaper than an GReedy or Cusco or Arc can.
Saves very valuable engine compartment real estate.
Simple to install.

Thanks for sharing.

 

dont really have any idea what this is, can someone pls explain to me whats a catch can and what does it do???

 

The oil vapors from the crankcase are recirculated into the intake system, so that they are burned with fuel rather than being released to the atmosphere. This is not good for various reasons, including lower fuel octane, contaminating the intercooler system for FI cars, etc. Thus, a catch can, by theory, separates the oil from the air coming from the crankcase. A search on this forum will show various cans installed, Cusco, Arc, generic, GReady, etc. They generally cost from $75 to $100 more or less, to much higher (ARC). The problem with these catch cans is that they take up room, not just for the cans, but also for the hoses that route to and from them, and the cost, of course. The beauty of this DIY is cost, no routing of hoses to a new location (in line), and it works. Disadvantage is that it is smaller, so must be checked more often.

I have a friend who is a mechanic for Infiniti, on this question he told me the G35's have a real problem with oil accumulating in the plenum, he told me he has found pools of oil on the lower plenum, on several G35s he checked. He does not have Z experience, but he assumes the situation is the same on the Z. This DIY catch can is a cheap way to solve that problem. Generally, although there are two hoses that could use a catch can (one drivers side, one passenger (passenger coming from PVC valve), the passenger side seems to have the major oil problem, and benefits most from a catch can.

Hope that helps, and that sums up my knowledge, if I made a mistake or am wrong about something above, please correct me.


I mounted mine this afternoon while changing the oil, BTW 65 degrees here in KY, thought I was in Florida, only difference from the picture of the OP's install is that I mounted on the oppposite side (to the front of the car) of the strut bar. Props to the OP, thanks! Looks clean and uncluttered.

 

Let me know how it works out. I have to empty mine every week. I think this might be my oil consumption problem. On my Hyundai, I emptied it it about every 6 weeks.

 

I visited a "better stocked" Home Depot and saw the larger Husky in person. For my car, it was too big overall (drivers side hose). I ended up getting another 1/4" one, and creating a "plumber's nightmare" to size the barbs correctly. With the filter and plastic gear assembly removed from inside, this is very free flowing, so I am not concerned with the "downsizing" of the ID for the "catchcan".



While searching online for a cheaper source, at least two other automotive forums popped up who are doing the same thing. One was Toyota Matrix (SC) owners, the other was for I think LS1 Chevy guys. They both report success.

 

Im sold, going to go get the parts tomorrow. Now I got to figure out where it will go in my engine bay

 

Great idea! And I'm not hating....but if you have the $'s to drop into F.I., why not spend $100 on a nice looking one. Seriously, your a smart individual to come up with this. I just had to pose the question.
Nice work!

 

I think, at least for me, the issue is more size and room rather than dollars. I got a big catchcan right here under my desk if you want to buy it. But I have run the hoses etc, and it makes the engine bay cluttered, plus no good place to put a big catchcan that doesn't look stupid or overwheming. Again the beauty is these work "inline", no big hoses (esp. drivers side - 5/8" hose) all over, and are very small.

 

Holy crap! What size are those barbs... 5/8"? Is that going on the driver's side? Mine is on the passenger's side and is only 3/8".

I'm a form-follows-function kinda guy. I'm not at all interested in building a show car. In fact, except for my rims, I plan on my car looking bone stock when I'm done with it. Well, as bone stock as I can and still make as close to 1000 HP as possible (extreme long-term goal).

 

5/8" - giant huh? and the passenger side is small, as you said.

1000 hp eh? At least you aim high.

 

Yep. Gonna stroke it and boost it. Wanna build a Supra killer.

 

Good answer, figured there was more to it.

 

I just picked up one of these from Lowes today. They private lable it now so its a Kobalt item, but the part number is basically the same as the CH one. This should be pretty stealth since is much smaller than the real catch cans.

 

Now that I have pulled the filter inards out, I think it would be very dangerous to use steel wool. There is nothing to prevent loose particles of the steel wool from being sucked into the motor.