I just performed this and went to a one piece flywheel. I do not know if I have the "chatter" mentioned, but it sounds like the transmission is grinding. It stops when the clutch is pushed in, disengaging the clutch and tranny. So it has to been one of those two things. It also stops making noise once I get above 2k RPM. A little transmission fluid leaked out during the install so I plan to drain and fill tonight. I am pretty concerned with this noise. Anyone else experience this or have any ideas. Other than the noise, the car runs great.

 

^Throw out bearing

 

I have the same problem but it is more of a rattling sound to me. This is probably why the OEM flywheel is dual-mass so it doesn't make any noise.

 

Im installing my JWT kit right now, but it came with no alignment tool.. anyone know where to quickly get one for cheap?

Also, I dont understand why you have to place the flywheel alignment key at the 12:00 position? Me JWT flywheel has the locator key on it and can only fit one way...

 

I just finished installing CD009, Southbend stage 3 clutch and Fidanza flywheel. I love it. I'd like to add a couple notes.

Just like hndumafia said. Don't use the grease method. I tried that for a loooong time and it didn't work. Luckily I managed to find a sliding hammer and fabricate a puller and get the sob out, but I would definitely recommend getting the tool.

You don't have to remove the cats but If you change them it's easy to get the top bolts off once you have removed the tranny. (edit: also easy to remove through the engine bay with a long extension)

If you change the clutch slave cylinder. When you bleed the clutch you should adjust it first so that it moves the cylinder as much as possible. Took me a while before I figured out that one.

This was my first time changing a clutch. I would like thank for the DIY and for the valuable tips in this thread!

edit: Had a lot of noise from the transmission after the installation. The reason for this was stiffer gearbox bushing. I wouldn't recommend getting a urethane bushing unless it's a track car. The noise from gearbox and exhaust was just unbearable. I have solid differential bushings and polyurethane subframe bushings. The added NVH of these combined was nothing compared to the gearbox bushing. There is still some chatter, but I think I'm ok.

 

I am about to do this and plan on using this to walk me through it.

Thanks.

 

probably a stupid question but when replacing the clutch is removing the flywheel necessary? and is the t55 torx a standard type of bolt for the flywheel?

 

Solid thread, used it and pretty much walked me through the whole install on jacks in my garage with average tools!

 

The directions in the OP states to 2-step 90 and 93 ft-lbs whereas the FSM states 62-68 ft-lbs and nothing about 2-step. So, was there a conclusive torque spec to use when tightening the flywheel bolts?

Also, does anybody know what kind of grease to use during the install?


I've attached the FSM and ACT's installation instructions for future reference as well.

 

Well exactly! what torque was your friend supposed to use? - I updated my STEP/ITEM 25 to help people understand this....

FSM - tells you 60 whatever - well hello...thats with the factory bolts and the factory Flywheel. why would that substantiate with an aftermarket flywheel UNLESS it says to reuse the bolts and it also says to use the factory service manual torque - which i have never seen see that ever! usually an aftermarket clutch tells you to reuse teh bolts and gives a completely different torque spec...

jebus..

-J

 

Step 17 says to mark the flywheel orientation before taking it off. Is this step necessary? I have reason to believe that my flywheel was not install properly in the first place, so marking it wouldn't make much sense.

If I do not mark it, aren't there markings to indicate how to re-mount it?

Also, just a side note. I pulled my motor and tranny yesterday by myself. The write up states that when you lower the tranny, oil could drip out of the output shaft. In my case, I hoisted my engine/tranny assembly out in a pretty steep angle and tranny fluid just poured out of the output shaft. I probably emptied the entire transmission fluid. LOL Just a head up for other guys!

 

I guess for a HR motor when you buy the throw out bearing from Nissan it pressed into the holder all together and you have to buy it together. Makes it a lil more pricey a lil over $100 bucks. I bought TB, new Flywheel bolts(every time you use a t bit strips regardless just my opinion) pilot bearing all for $185 with a discount. You can get the flywheel bolts off with a electric impact. I used one from Sears. Bought the car with 6k miles so that's likely from factory since its been bolted together. So super torquing the flywheel bolts might lead to snapping the bolt off in the future. I think my gun is rated at 250lb. Just FYI.

 

Yesterday I installed the new jwt flywheel + clutch disc and pressure plate Stoke. But during the change between speeds gear box the flywheel sliding !!!!
Is it possible to be ring gear offset not the same as stock flywheel ؟؟

 

Literally came here to ask about something to prevent the flywheel from turning.. but that 1/2 might just do the trick.

 

you responded to a 9 year old post, and the member you quoted hasnt logged in for 5 years..... not to mention bump a dead thread.

 

I sure did... Because the information was helpful and it directly applies to what I'm doing now.

 

Working on this now. From my understanding the pin just needs to line up with the flywheel regardless of its position.
Ex: mine is at the 3pm position when I took off my OEM flywheel. I just need to match that position with my JWT flywheel correcT?