It is very accessible, I guess what I'm saying is if the valve failed. Which it doesn't seem like it would.

 

Bummer that the OP's pics are not visable any longer... But thanks to the others for keeping the thread alive. I ordered my catch can and will be installing soon.

 

I just ordered this catch can as well but would like to add the little guage you did to it before installing.

Care to share what you used and the procedure of it?? Preddy prease with a cherry on top?

 

^ Well since you included a cherry on top... ok why not

Drill holes with a 11/32" bit.
Tap hole with a 1/8-27 PPE tap.
*use cutting oil or just some engine oil during both those steps*

Fittings are 1/8th brass; thread x compression elbows.
Get brass ferule (sp?) inserts to go inside tube (look inside tube at connection in picture).
Get plastic compression collar rings. I didn't use the brass ones that came with fittings. I felt the brass rings that came with fittings might cut through soft vinyl tubing while tightening down compression nut.

Tube ID and OD I forget. Just take fitting and try with different sized tubes.

I got everything at a local OSH Hardware store.

 

They have those compression fittings and brass fittings at menards or lowes. I get my fittings from menards.

 

Woot thanks 06CPV35!! You also get chocolate sprinkles with it

So i take it there's no way of knowing where to measure and drill holes before mounting it with the PCV lines/ mounting bracket?

 

Chocolate sprinkels...awesome thanx

It's possible. The can slides and rotates in bracket where ever you want/need and has an allen set screw that'll hold the can in place. Mock it up in your engine bay, make your marks, remove bracket with can position set, start the sight tube mod.

G/L

 

I luv you guys (zchickz can say this)!! I need one of these badly. Sweet!!

 

Stupid question.. I already installed this, so I didn't want to remove to test the drain valve at the bottom.

If the wing-nut at the bottom is farthest from the can - is this open or closed?

If I recall, I can to turn it clockwise for the nut to be farther away from the can (seems like tightening it). and logic would say that if I loosen in and the valve goes into the can, the oil will go through the hole in the screw and out the drain.

I'll probably need to at least partially remove this catch can to drain it - I just want to avoid some oil dripping into the engine bay.

 

I have a similar style home depot special. I would NOT plumb that oil back into the oil pan. It smells heavy of fuel for some reason. It does not smell like the oil that comes out of my oil pan.

 

Ordered one, tks for the write up

Bill

 

^ You'll like. Mine still lokking and working like a champ.

 

i blocked off the pcv and where the emission tubes entered the intake manifold and ran the three tube from the valve covers down under the car.

these cars dont have blow by unless your tuner dosent know what he was doing...

 

Fine for racing. Illegal for street.

Many factory stock VQ's have blow-by, especially the revups (298/300hp stock VQ's). IMO, it's a design failure with the valvecover PCV internal baffle and these VQ's being vacuum monsters.

 

Just removed mine last night. Had a big oil leak coming from it. Bottom drain screw was loose and the gasket at the bottom was blown out. When it was installed one line was coming from the drivers side and the other was going to my intake tubeing right behind the pop charger. I'm assuming it was wrong since nothing led back to the pelenium

 

I know this is old, but why do we not connect the driver side valve cover?