DIY - Solid diff bushing install - No subframe drop method, no c clamp either!
09-26-2011, 02:11 AM
#61
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I just did this install this weekend along with some solid subframe bushings and OS giken LSD. I was curious how many of you have ridiculously loud whine coming from the diff on throttle. The whine varies pitch with throttle application. I can also noticeably hear every gear shift as if I had a stethoscope to the tranny.
There's also some clunking from the diff itself even though I've hear the OSG is supposed to be pretty quiet. Any ideas?
There's also some clunking from the diff itself even though I've hear the OSG is supposed to be pretty quiet. Any ideas?
You have no business doing all this unless its a track car or your willing ot deal with it........performance comes with a payoff.......what your hearing is the sound of performance...
enjoy...
-J
09-26-2011, 09:55 AM
#62
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sure I expected increased NVH but this is much more than what I've heard from others on here. I'm thinking that it may be due to improper backlash or a bad pinion bearing. I just wanted to get some input from others. Thanks!
09-28-2011, 07:36 AM
#63
Its hard to say, since the OSG diff is supposed to be very quiet however the solid diff bushings ARE NOT or rather they will make everything your diff is doing audible. I saw a huge increase in NVH just from solid diff bushings on the stock VLSD. Much more whine from the diff, audible shift changes, etc. That being said I'm much more **** about all the little noises in my car so to me it was a large difference, to others not so much. I can only imagine the solid subframe bushings will make an even greater difference regardless if your running the stock diff or the giken. My only suggestion and this is if your running solid diff bushings as well is to removed the diff bolts one at a time and slide in those flat rubber pads (about 3mm thick) that used to sit above the stock diff bushings. Slide them in between the diff bushings and the sub frame, it might help a little bit and you don't have to drop the diff to do it...just loosen the bolts and install one at a time.
11-29-2011, 10:54 PM
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Great write up. I ordered this Polyurethane rear Diff bushing from an independent seller in the states. I haven't installed it due to the fact that im in the process of building up an open diff, Quaife lsd and all. So once I get the Differential all complete I'll be installing it and removing the rear bushing. I'll be sure to post up my notes once finished. Here is the video he has posted on You Tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqBWC-ZwpyA
11-30-2011, 03:08 AM
#66
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^ So pretty much my $10 locally fabricated "Big Frank socket" packaged up for $199
-neat! lol....
the die, receiver trick works guys like mentioned in the first post of this thread, but the post 12 method I do makes the job ridiculously quick........done quite a few that way already...
-J
-neat! lol....
the die, receiver trick works guys like mentioned in the first post of this thread, but the post 12 method I do makes the job ridiculously quick........done quite a few that way already...
-J
12-07-2011, 10:17 AM
#67
I need to do this install... anyone know the best place to buy theses bushings... ive been driving with a blown bushing and i think its damaged my cv axle.... it has some play in it now (in and out with respect to the dif and wheels)..... all the sites i looked at have the blue bushing, is it just that they didnt update their picture??
12-07-2011, 06:53 PM
#69
^ So pretty much my $10 locally fabricated "Big Frank socket" packaged up for $199
-neat! lol....
the die, receiver trick works guys like mentioned in the first post of this thread, but the post 12 method I do makes the job ridiculously quick........done quite a few that way already...
-J
-neat! lol....
the die, receiver trick works guys like mentioned in the first post of this thread, but the post 12 method I do makes the job ridiculously quick........done quite a few that way already...
-J
Literally took me 4 minutes to get it out.
12-16-2011, 06:04 PM
#70
Jesus Mary Magdalin..... just did this install lol took forever!! started out good, everything came off easy, didnt need to use WD40 on cv's, driveshaft, sway bar, dif etc.... but then came the goddamn bushing lol.. my saw saw did a quarter cut and died!!!! d'oh... so i decided to do the other method, pulling it out using a hollow tube, that didnt work at all lol... ended up cutting through it with a hack saw blade... after that went smoothly.... havent driven it yet though..
12-17-2011, 10:33 AM
#72
12-17-2011, 04:43 PM
#73
I had similar drill bits, drilled the hell outta it but didnt want to come out lol... the race was fairly easy.... my caught was smoking like crazy today, does anyone know if the silicone and the rubber from the bushing is flamable?? I think i forgot to clean if off of the exhaust can thing...... gotta go under there tomrow and check it out
12-22-2011, 04:38 AM
#74
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I had similar drill bits, drilled the hell outta it but didnt want to come out lol... the race was fairly easy.... my caught was smoking like crazy today, does anyone know if the silicone and the rubber from the bushing is flamable?? I think i forgot to clean if off of the exhaust can thing...... gotta go under there tomrow and check it out
hot drilled/saw saw'd rubber will fling onto the exhaust and stick there..burn and smell on your next trips..
-J
02-18-2012, 02:50 PM
#76
Awesome stuff. Thanks for posting this kind of info up for all of us to use.
I'm about to instal my solid bushing into the subframe with some PB blaster.
Except I have my bushing sitting out in the backyard, -7 C ( 19F)
And I have a space heater pointed at the subframe to bring it up from the garage temp of
4 C (40 F) haha. Gotta get that temperature difference as big as possible.
I'm about to instal my solid bushing into the subframe with some PB blaster.
Except I have my bushing sitting out in the backyard, -7 C ( 19F)
And I have a space heater pointed at the subframe to bring it up from the garage temp of
4 C (40 F) haha. Gotta get that temperature difference as big as possible.
02-18-2012, 06:32 PM
#78
Route i went was making ghetto liquid nitrogen, since real liquid nitrogen is difficult and dangerous to handle.
Basically its a plastic pale with denatured alcohol in it and finely chunked up dry ice. Slowly adding the dry ice to the alcohol until it stops rapidly melting/evaporating. At that point the alcohol is the same temperature of the dry ice (-70 degrees F).
I thought it best to have the bushing in the freezer a few days beforehand anyways to reduce the thermal shock. Slowly lowering the bushing into the super cold alcohol and allowed it to chill for about 5 minutes.
I then removed it with a pair of channel locks, with it still dripping in the alcohol and simply slid it into the subframe. No hammering or pushing necessary, just put it into the hole and made sure it was sitting flush while warming back up.
Basically its a plastic pale with denatured alcohol in it and finely chunked up dry ice. Slowly adding the dry ice to the alcohol until it stops rapidly melting/evaporating. At that point the alcohol is the same temperature of the dry ice (-70 degrees F).
I thought it best to have the bushing in the freezer a few days beforehand anyways to reduce the thermal shock. Slowly lowering the bushing into the super cold alcohol and allowed it to chill for about 5 minutes.
I then removed it with a pair of channel locks, with it still dripping in the alcohol and simply slid it into the subframe. No hammering or pushing necessary, just put it into the hole and made sure it was sitting flush while warming back up.
02-19-2012, 06:14 AM
#80
Route i went was making ghetto liquid nitrogen, since real liquid nitrogen is difficult and dangerous to handle.
Basically its a plastic pale with denatured alcohol in it and finely chunked up dry ice. Slowly adding the dry ice to the alcohol until it stops rapidly melting/evaporating. At that point the alcohol is the same temperature of the dry ice (-70 degrees F).
I thought it best to have the bushing in the freezer a few days beforehand anyways to reduce the thermal shock. Slowly lowering the bushing into the super cold alcohol and allowed it to chill for about 5 minutes.
I then removed it with a pair of channel locks, with it still dripping in the alcohol and simply slid it into the subframe. No hammering or pushing necessary, just put it into the hole and made sure it was sitting flush while warming back up.
Basically its a plastic pale with denatured alcohol in it and finely chunked up dry ice. Slowly adding the dry ice to the alcohol until it stops rapidly melting/evaporating. At that point the alcohol is the same temperature of the dry ice (-70 degrees F).
I thought it best to have the bushing in the freezer a few days beforehand anyways to reduce the thermal shock. Slowly lowering the bushing into the super cold alcohol and allowed it to chill for about 5 minutes.
I then removed it with a pair of channel locks, with it still dripping in the alcohol and simply slid it into the subframe. No hammering or pushing necessary, just put it into the hole and made sure it was sitting flush while warming back up.
The rear mount of the differential housing that bolts on to the rear subframe.
and yes it increases NVH, especially if you have a set of gears that whine.