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DIY - Solid diff bushing install - No subframe drop method, no c clamp either!

Old 05-19-2012, 10:00 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by freddys 350z View Post
great write up. did the install to day. one thing i would say is that a BFH is needed. my 16oz hammer didnt have enough OMPH to get the bushing in. i used a mini sledge, it made short work of it.

also i had trouble cutting out the center of the bushing with a ripcip saw and a wood blade. it only wanted to make strait cuts in the rubber. i think that frakensocket would be better, and less messy. you could also try putting some anti seize on the bolt so it wouldent break.
Interested in the removal techniques.

I don't think going round the rubber section would work with the recip saw either, but i guess going crazy with a drill might work, then just run the metal blade through some sections. I've got to do this in a few weeks, the whiteline bushings are ordered, hoping it won't take the same prep to insert the new one. Might still freeze it though.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:34 AM
  #102  
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Any update on the diameter of the socket needed to remove the diff ear bushings?
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:38 AM
  #103  
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Wait, if i measured the diameter of the replacement ear bushings, and gave a little tolerance, maybe <1mm, then i should have the max outer diameter of the socket required to remove the stock bushes.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:23 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by F2CMaDMaXX View Post
Any update on the diameter of the socket needed to remove the diff ear bushings?
Originally Posted by F2CMaDMaXX View Post
Wait, if i measured the diameter of the replacement ear bushings, and gave a little tolerance, maybe <1mm, then i should have the max outer diameter of the socket required to remove the stock bushes.
ummmm, post 8??

https://my350z.com/forum/8564380-post8.html

-J
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:37 PM
  #105  
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Thanks Jason.

If i translate the size you gave (1 7/8) inch = 47.62500 millimeters

And my measurement across the replacement ear bushings is 50mm - SO i'd say anything in that ballpark should work out fine (i hope, will find out saturday)
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:37 AM
  #106  
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^ ya man.....heck one time we just grabbed a big socket that was well under sized and just hit it with the hammer and whack, whack whack and a few hits later it was out...

its not really that difficult...some require more hits that others, but this section of the install never took more than a few minutes any time we did it.

-J
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:39 PM
  #107  
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So one of the ears has a lot inside it, so a smaller socket will still work, and the other ear doesn't have as much showing so we need a closer in size socket.


The only thing i'm dreading is the rear bush removal.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:12 AM
  #108  
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^ ya exactly....find anything close and hammer away, those ear bushings have never been a problem for me or acidjake to remove....

as for the rear bushing, i have done it time and time again, and post #12 is how i keep doing it....cutting the bushing out has always been the fastest and easiest.

-J
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:24 PM
  #109  
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Thanks, getting everything together for tomorrow, instructions printed etc.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:02 AM
  #110  
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OK, day took a lot longer than i wanted to Loads of messing round getting it up on jack stands at the back and then i couldn't get the prop and drive shaft bolts undone!!!

Ended up using Kroil (even though bolts were clean and not corroded) and two wrenches wedges together for a bit of extra leverage. No idea how i'm going to torque them up again, can't fir the torque wrench on there. Just FT i guess.


So the diff is out on the floor right now, front ears came out fine with the kroil and 36mm socket was perfect. I've got a picture of the socket with a caliper on it, but it seems that almost any 36mm socket will fit based on what i saw.

So i don't know about two rubber discs and two metal 'top hats' from the ears. Do i reinstall these again after fitting the whiteline bushing ears?

Everything (hopefully) going back on tomorrow, just have to finish removing the rear bushing, it's part drilled at the moment.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:03 AM
  #111  
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My question, do the other bushings need to be replaced? What is the harm in replacing only the diff bushing?

I ask, as I will most likely be paying for this(thinking reduced labor)
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:13 AM
  #112  
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Also what option is better? solid bushing(aluminum) or poly? How much is noise a factor in the solid?
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:05 AM
  #113  
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The other bushing involved are the front two 'ear' bushings on the differential and then the '4' bushings on the rear subframe itself.

I just replaced the diff bushings, i wouldn't exactly advise just doing the rear bushing (if that's what you're asking) as it is now the stiffest point, whilst one of the ear bushings is solid rubber, the other is much like the rear bushing, in that it's fluid filled as well.
This basically means that those ear bushings might be worked harder than normal, it would be good for them to compliment each other.

As for the sub frame, personally, unless you're tracking the car, i don't believe there is anything wrong with the stock bushings, so long as they're in good condition.
The differential has to be removed whichever route you choose, the ears are 5-10 mins work if yo're slow and working it out, like i was, so the labour savings are non existent there.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:09 AM
  #114  
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Again, i think that unless you're tracking the car, then solid bushings aren't required. They will technically introduce more NVH, there is just no way they can't. However, most people who fitted them have reported that it's unnoticeable **unless** the subframe bushes are also upgraded to stiffer options.

I (obviously) used the Whiteline versions, in various scenarios, that company has triumphed Energy suspension in my experiences, but both should offer a close to stock feel/replacement whilst unavoidably being an upgrade to stock at the same time.

My car is a DD so i don't need/want much more than stock, i probably would have used a stock bushing if you could get them. Having said that, i'm more than happy with the Whitelines
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:54 AM
  #115  
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Agree with F2CMaDMaXX completely...

Diff bushings:
just get the whiteline KDT911 kit and have all 3 diff pieces installed...done and done...

subframe bushings:
I also agree, that the oem subframe bushings are fine forever i would say on a daily driver....track guys would be the only reason you would ever wanna replace those.

-J
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:32 AM
  #116  
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Mine is torn and leaking.. I have tracked in the past, just haven't gotten back yet.. plans to make one two this season
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:46 PM
  #117  
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So how bad is the NVH if using poly for the diff and aluminum for the subframe?

It's technically a track car: no carpet, no interior past the front doors, roll cage...but I'm usually bothered by extra noises.

I want the aluminum subframe because of the "raised" option.

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:59 AM
  #118  
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^ The noise is subjective......it sounds like you wont like it...you can probably grease the heck out of them and maybe do rubber gasket where the subframe bushings meet the unibody.....but really i would just install it and deal with it...track car is a track car...

-J
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:23 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
^ The noise is subjective......it sounds like you wont like it...you can probably grease the heck out of them and maybe do rubber gasket where the subframe bushings meet the unibody.....but really i would just install it and deal with it...track car is a track car...

-J
With the silencer out of the exhaust and my helmet on, it probably won't be that noticeable. It's the 1-3 hour drive to the track that concerns me. :-/
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:50 AM
  #120  
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I tried both solid and poly bushings. Both will cause more vibration than stock. Almost like road noise when accelerating/decelerating. The only difference I noticed between then is that the solid ones emit some gear whine between 40-55 mph. If you're concerned about noise or vibration, don't do this mod. Get a new stock bushing.

I would also avoid poly bushings if you drive it hard; my rear poly bushing failed within a couple weeks and ejected itself onto the track.

Hence the switch to solid.

Last edited by djamps; 07-02-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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