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So going from a factory 5AT to a 6MT, i WONT need to swap out the ECM then correct? like will i actually be able to start and drive the car without a retune or reflash?
So going from a factory 5AT to a 6MT, i WONT need to swap out the ECM then correct? like will i actually be able to start and drive the car without a retune or reflash?
Correct. I didn't flash anything and am dailying mine. If you want you can check out my Instagram post about it. 965spec make sure you do the reverse switch wiring before you put back the transmission.
Well sure everything would have to be replaced together for everything to work seamlessly right away--but the simple question was verification that reflashing the auto ecu would allow cruise to work. There is no way to get rid of the u1000/u1001 codes without a reflash. The question was is it the code itself preventing cruise, I.e. Does the code just need to be turned off or does it need a 6mt rom. I am going to burn a license on this vehicle and
it should work fine; I was just looking to see if anyone had any first hand experience reflashing an auto ecu to get cruise back.
The auto bcm isn't missing any relays, it trips an additional relay for the reverse lights. The wiring required is extremely simple. My reverse lights do work-- all that's needed is a jumper in place of the reverse light relay on the auto body harness. I have attached a photo in case anyone still doesn't have reverse lights. There are two different pins you can jump to, and also can just solder them below the connector of course. If anyone wants the wiring diagram I'll find it and post it as well.
Regards,
Ross
HI Ross
Could please kindly help and post the wiring diagram for this and also a clearer explanation of what you did. I have been driving the car with no reverse lights and really need this to work. Please help.
Hello. I wrote one up for the G guys but I think the Z guys would benefit more.
I didn't have time to take pictures but this swap should take no more than 6-8 hours. I will on the next swap I do.
This is the first revision [on going] of this wright up. I am turning this attempt at a DIY to an FAQ/ info thread. I will make a full writeup on the next swap I do and link it to this thread. Most importantly, follow this at your own risk! Neither I or this forum is responsible for you "messing up your car". now that all the formalities are out the way its time to get this baby started!!
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Parts list:
Hydraulics:
Clutch Pedal - You can use the OEM pedal or go with an aftermarket option (tilton, willwood, summit, etc)
Clutch Master Cylinder - OEM, OE Replacement
Clutch Line - OEM or aftermarket replacement
Clutch Slave Cylinder - OEM, OE Replacement
Drive Train:
6MT Clutch Kit: OEM, Aftermarket
-Pressure Plate
-Pressure Plate Bolts
-Clutch Disk
-Throw out Bearing
-Pilot Bushing
-Alignment Tool
6MT Flywheel - OEM, Aftermarket
6MT Flywheel Bolts - OEM
6MT Transmission - OEM
6MT Shifter - OEM, Aftermarket
6MT Rubber Grommet w/bracket - OEM from any MT Nissan. This is only if you have added the 6MT shifter hole
6MT Drive-line - OEM, Aftermarket
6MT Differential - 5AT works, 6MT works better
*Be sure you have all of this before you get started*
FAQ What Items don't I have to source?
You do not need the following for your car to run/drive:
-6MT EFI Harness - 5AT works fine you just have to do some simple wiring
-6MT ECU - Use existing 5AT ECU
-6MT Ebrake -
-6MT Differential - 5AT works fine and gets great gas mileage. Just has longer gears.
-6MT Gauge Cluster - 5AT works fine, you will have a "check AT" light on How easy is this to do?
If you can change a clutch, you can do a 6mt swap. What custom work needs to be done? (what doesn't bolt in 100% OEM)
The only custom work would be the clutch pedal and making a cut for the shifter. What is the price for this? If you DIY
The price varies depending on new/used price on the parts listed above.
-I have had good luck finding cheap used parts. The cheapest this has been done for is about $700 (free transmission and interior pieces)
Wiring
You will need to do a bit of wiring for this swap. Specifically the Starting System. Reverse lights and Neutral Position Switch will not need to be wired up if you are using the 6MT Harness.
Starting System
The 5AT Chassis Harness does not have an interlock switch for the clutch. You will need to wire Switched 12V+ directly to the IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module). Now there are two ways of doing this.
Option 1:
You can bridge any Switched 12V+ directly to Terminal 53 (Grey/Red Stripe Wire) on the IPDM. You will be able to start the car without depressing the clutch.
Option 2:
If you purchased a used clutch pedal, It should have come with the interlock switch. You can wire Switched 12v+ to the switch, then from the switch to Terminal 53 (Grey/Red Stripe Wire) on the IPDM... For that OEM Feel.
Neutral Position Switch
*You will only need to do this if your are using the 5AT engine harness**The 6MT harness plugs right in**
The neutral position switch is what controls cruise control. You will not need to wire this in if you have disabled cruise control or are running an aftermarket steering wheel setup.
You will need to wire Pin 102 on the ECU(Green/Orange Stripe) to either spade on the Neutral Position Sensor. The other spade will then need to be grounded to any part of the chassis.
Transmission Removal
First things first. Lets get that trans out.
1) get the car up on jack stands or a lift. the higher the better.
2) remove catalytic converters, y pipe and O2 sensors.
3) drain the oil from the pan
4) remove the driveshaft at the differential and remove the carrier bearing. the driveshaft can then be pulled out.
5) undo transmission mount bold and the transmission will drop into the crossmember
6) unhook all sensors, remove gear selector, transmission cooler hardlines, transmission fluid fill drain.
7) Remove all the bolts from the bellhousing. unhook the starter and set it aside. now unhook the transmission from the chassis by removing the 4 crossmember bolts.
8) you will now be able to pull the transmission out. be careful because this will drain all of the trans fluid that was in the torque converter. make sure you have a large bucket to drain it in.
9)remove the giant brace that sandwiches part of the lower compression arm thing.
10) you will now be able to remove your torque converter. You just need to get your wrench behind the lip on the block. once the torque converter is out, you can remove the flywheel. It will look like this once completed.
Interior Removal: Center Console
1) Put the shifter in neutral and remove the AT Shift ****.
2)Remove the shifter bezel. It just snaps out of place You will need to disconnect the Seat warmers, Ashtray lights, and hazard Swtich.
3)Remove the rest of the center console by removing the 4 screws. Two under the radio and the other two on the sides.
4)Disconnect the park cable that releases the key. you might find some treasure in between the seats.
5)Now remove the AT shifter assembly by removing the 4 10mm bolts and disconnecting the harness.
6)you will be left this this
pry it off with a flat head and it comes right off.
Interior Removal: Seat and Clutch Pedal Prep.
1) Remove the 4 bolt covers and the bolts that hold down the seat. Be sure to unplug the 3 plugs under the seat.
2) Remove kick panel by undoing the bolt in the back and pulling towards the passenger side. Undo the weather stripping and the 'thing' that holds it in. Also take off the cover for the bottom of the dash. Be sure to unplug the interior temp sensor, trunk switch, dimmer, and vdc switch as well as the hood release.
3) get down in there and remove the ebrake assembly. It is being held in by 4 bolts. The top two will require a wrench. ratcheting wrench is a lifesaver. Follow the ebrake cable under the dash and undo it, you won't be needing it.
4) 4) Time to remove the VDC/ABS/TCS. It is held up by 4 bolts. Drop it then easily unplug it. (You will need to plug this back in later)
5) Now you can remove the brake pedal. If you are not replacing the pedal, just cut it in half.
6)peel pack the carpet and cut the insulation to reveal the bracket that holds in the ebrake. get a spot weld drill bit and remove the bracket.
Transmission Install. (sorry for the lack of pics)
**You must index the flywheel properly, the car won't start or run correctly if the flywheel is installed wrong**
1) Set the Engine at TDC
2) Install Flywheel in correct position and torque flywheel bolts to appropriate torque
3) Some cranks will not require a pilot bushing - Install if needed
4) Install the clutch using the clutch alignment tool. TQ bolts to appropriate torque.
5) Install Throw-out bearing into clutch bearing sleeve. Make sure everything is good. If you have a 2003-early 04 transmission it is a good time to upgrade the clutch fork and pivot ball to 04-05+
6) Before the transmission goes in, you must modify the transmission cross-member (only if you are using the AT cross-member.)
You must cut our the bracket that is welded inside the cross-member.
7) install transmission and thread in the cross-member bolt also start threading the bell housing bolts. AT bellhousing bolts will work on MT.
8) now that the bracket is cut out, it allows the bolt to go in through the transmission mount
9)Find a nut that will screw in to the transmission mount bolt. Since we are reusing the AT cross-member, Nissan didn't weld a nut to the other side.
10) time for some cutting
11) You can use your imagination on this one, but be sure you have enough room for the shifter to move freely. I just used tin snips and cut a notch.
would this also be the same for vq35hr?
mainly im making sure i can use an automatic transmission ecu??
Planning to do this swap on a buddy's car next month. We have the gearbox but need a flywheel/clutch. Does anyone have suggestions for a street driven car that does a drift day about 5 times a year?
hi friends, has anyone had the problem that after making the swap the car loses power in outputs? I mean it's slow to raise rpm when it's below 3000rpm
hi friends, has anyone had the problem that after making the swap the car loses power in outputs? I mean it's slow to raise rpm when it's below 3000rpm
the permanent code that I have is the u1000 no other, here in my country nobody can delete this code only those that start in P.
Thats an issue with the CAN system.... could be a loose connector or damaged harness. I'd check you haven't shorted or cut any wires when working on your car.
The U1000 code is normal when doing this swap because the TCM/trans will be removed and the CAN system is looking for it. It also has no effect on performance. There is some other issue or problem with the install.
Hi all. I got all the parts and everything is done. When i try to put the manual transmission back in their is an inch gap. It is not going in because the neck of the main transmission shaft is a bit wide at then end. Should i machine it or just remove the pilot bushing? Or is the main transmission shaft a bit longer. I asked a local mechanic and he gave me a shaft off a 350z transmission and it looks different on the end that goes into the crank as it has no diameter increase and a bit shorter. Any ideas??? Please help!!!
I'm struggling at the same part, the transmission is like half an inch to be flush with the engine, did you figured it out how to solve it?
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2005 350z roadster that was in a crash for 1000$. I am planning on putting the motor in my 280z. The motor has 90000 miles on it. Issue is the motor is auto and I would like standard. Is the price low enough to do this swap? Any input is welcome. Thanks
06-07-2018, 02:35 PM
