My is still down, i replaced the cam and crank sensors (3 total) nd replaced the battery and spark plugs and its still not firing up first try.

 

Did anyone have problems turning on the car.

It cranks all the time and it will always turn on but sometimes it takes more times than others..

Has new crank/cam sensors, spark plugs and battery.

Car runs great.

I only wired in the ingnition to the clutch and to the gray/red wire.
-was there anything else that i have to wire ? Or was something done wrong?

 

Greetings guys! i have gotten a cd009 off a rev up g35 sedan fairly cheap! Next i put my list together of stuff i need to buy:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...aca-rtUPMv6HZs

someone who has done this swap please look over this and let me know if i need anything else?

 

the driveshaft you can buy on ebay for....100 bucks.....

home depot you can buy those flywheel bolts assuming you know the thread pitch and length i prefer a hex head using a mm tq wrench to torque it down to required spec....i had 1 flywheel bolt and was outraged at the price at the dealership for one of those bolts and i hate using a torx star bit to torque it very prone to stripping the torx star bolt easily and if it strips, you have to torch the bolt out.....

i switched my car from auto to manual when i built my motor and put my twin turbo kit on I don't think 600-700whp can be had on a auto trans.......

it looks like your list shows everything needed. you dont need a new rear diff you can use the existing diff.

 

Thanks for the info on that! saved some cash on the drive line. Last question, Until i start the swap. I was told i need to re tune the car, as well that the MT drive shaft will not match the auto diff something about it being different. Ohh and in the how to they had to cut some plate out for the G, do we have todo that on the z? Or is it just kinda bolt in?

 

you dont have to do a reflash the car will run just fine. the driveshaft connects to 4 bolts to the auto diff thats it.

you dont have to cut out a plate, you will need to cut the bottom of the metal piece to make room for the shifter, look at pictures from the earlier pages of this thread.

oh yeah their is 1 item missing on your list, you will either need to buy a MT transmission crossmember, or turn your auto transmission crossmember 180 degrees and cut the black bracket inside and get a special bolt from home depot to latch the 4 bolts to hold the transmission mount.

 

I did the swap on my G35 a while back but finally got around to putting in the 6mt cluster to finish it off. The cluster works fine but makes things not work. dome lights, headlight auto off and window tuck don't work with the 6mt cluster installed.

It seems like it doesn't let the car see a proper "door open" signal. There must be a small wiring change somewhere that makes the clusters different...

Not sure if it applies to the Z as well, but curious if anyone had similar issues and if anyone found a way to make it work?

 

Seriously... You trying to get someone killed... Home depot for flywheel bolts???

 

nothing wrong with using home depot or lowes bolts, they sell both metric and standard there.

as long as thread pitch and length of bolt is exactly the same. use red loctite on the end of each bolt will hold it in place when flywheel is moving.

the cost per bolt cost $.50 to 1.00 versus

the dealership charging for star bit oem bolts that easily strip when torquing down to required torque spec on the flywheel the cost per bolt is somewhere in the realm of $7.00 to $13.00 bucks per bolt.....i almost stripped the oem flywheel bolts when torquing down to 65 ft lbs so i threw those bolts away....went with the home depot type instead..

i used tons and tons of home depot bolts on my Z while doing the conversion because home depot is right by my house can pick them up on the same day and the price is much more affordable.

i dont want to drive 13 miles to the dealership to pick up these overpriced bolts and have to wait atleast 1 day because they are all special order.

 

I would specify though, that if you go to home depot you should not just buy the simple zinc bolts. According to FSM, most of the oem engine bolts are grade 5 or grade 8 or better. Those zinc bolts will snap easily.

However myself, anything internal on the engine I will use either OEM or ARP to be safe. Anything outside the engine and not holding power - home depot bolts are fine.

 

i definitely agree with what your saying no way in hell would i use home depot bolts for anything internal for my engine. I used (ARP L19 Head studs and ARP main studs for my block) using home depot bolts for the flywheel i dont see much of a problem with it.

i used these same grade 8.8 metric bolts to hold a 400 lb engine on my engine stand. and when i took my engine off to put it in my car all 4 of the home depot bolts are still straight and in one piece. so this idea of them snapping is something i cannot imagine happening for my flywheel especially when i used like 8 of them with red loctite and its holding up 35 lbs of a twin disk clutch?

 

high grade bolts for the flywheel/drivetrain are a must no matter where you get them from. not only are they holding up the clutch/flywheel, but are also holding all the power you put down. if they are not high grade and high shear strength, they will definitely twist and snap. The bolts in the open boxes on the shelves, and not in the drawers would have this issue.

I opted for the factory flywheel bolts, but only because i'm OCD about using only OEM grade or better parts, including bolts etc.

I was not in a rush though and collected all the parts and ordered online before actually doing my swap. I am using a multi-disc clutch as well. Exedy Triple disc carbon.

 

BTW Justin, did you install a 6mt gauge cluster as well?

If so, did you need to rewire anything for it to work properly?

Not sure if this applies to Z's but installing the 6mt cluster in my 03 G causes weird things to happen with the door jamb switches causing dome lights and auto-off headlights not to work.

 

I cant answer that question, I kept my auto gauge cluster i didnt want to waste money on a 6mt cluster i didnt see any real benefit other than that blinking red light when your nearing red line and when it shows you each gear on the little orange box.

 

I just didn't like the blank screen. again.. OCD thing so it bothers me lol

 

Hello, Not sure if the op is active on here but the original post says a "Drive-line" is needed is this a drive shaft because i cannot find any such thing as the driveline. Also is the rubber grommet needed for the shifter a dust boot? or where can i find this grommet and bracket, thank you.

 

The driveline is just the front part of the driveshaft, so you can get the whole driveshaft nut you will only nees the part that connects to the tranny. And the gromment im not 100% on it but i didnt buy anything with that name, and mine is complete.

 

If you don't know what is meant by "driveline" you probably should not be attempting the swap. It is not a simple plug and play ordeal and once you start you need to finish it. theres really no going back from doing this.

 

Awesome thank you, do you know where to find just the line as I can only find complete drive shafts?

 

People sell theres on ebay.
Im from cali and i ordered all my parts from FL, ZXAutoCenter . Thats the shop if you wanna ask for parts i got the whole drive shaft for 100 and $20 shipping. Only because i wasnt so sure if i needed the shaft complete. But i didnt and i used only the front part that goes into the tranny. Just ask for the front part and im sure he will have it (: