Your question is a bit confusing.

The motor is not "auto" or "manual". Your gear box and chassis are what are considered "auto" or "manual".

Your 280z is not a 350z. You will be swapping and engine and transmission, plus other parts, to a car that is not the same as the donor car. Therefore, you may run into issue such as fitment, anchor locations, etc.

 

I finally got the last of what I need. I did the clutch line and everything and was wondering what did people do for the upper bolt that holds the Clutch pedal to the body? the fire wall seem pretty flimsy.

 

on the MT model there is a bracket that is spot welded onto the upper firewall where this clutch pedal assembly supposedly bolts onto. You gotta drill that bracket out from the MT model from the top ( gotta take out the cowling and wiper motor linkage to gain access. Removing the hood would make your life easier) and using nuts and bolts (use loctite) to install the bracket on your car. Keep in mind the placement of the bracket on the MT car to accurately install on your car. your firewall will bend through if u don’t install this bracket.

 

Is there a way i can create a custom bracket to support it

 

Up to you. I just went to the scrapyard and drilled it out from a scrapped mt Z. I think it will be worth extracting the bracket instead of making your own lol.

 

 

Reviving this old *** thread to add some pointers for any swappers as I've done this swap twice now.

-If keeping your "auto" engine, use soft bread, 14mm socket & hammer to remove the giant a/t pilot bushing, gently press m/t bushing all the way into the crank.

-if keeping auto ecu, I recommend replacing the throttle body and doing all the resets (ecu, idle air, throttle release, etc), car should run much better

-if using auto wiring harness, cut and extend your reverse-light connector and they will work

-AWD swappers need an upper&lower oil pan, cut&extend the wire connecting by the oil filter (unless swapping for rwd engine) and a one-piece driveshaft as the awd frame doesn't pair with factory rwd center bearing, awd rear diff and front subframe/suspension work.

i may be able to answer more questions

 

Hey confiscatedrimz! Thanks for the input!

what do you mean by replacing the throttle body. Is there a difference between the AT vs MT throttle body or do you mean an upgrade?

Thanks!

 

Been a while so was just curious if anyone has been able to get the 6mt cluster working properly with this swap? I have it in my G35 but I think there is some type of CAN signal issue with some other computer in the car that controls the dome light and windoww up/down when door opens or closes.

 

I just completed the swap in my 05. Couple of points and questions. Car starts and runs but I'm not getting any power to my obd port to check the codes. Getting power to the 15a fuse by the battery but nothing to terminal 16 on the port. Also the later models have a different transmission harness than older. Mine had one connector to the tcm. According to the service manual the park neutral switch sends a 12v signal to pin 102 on ecm and not a ground like the write up says. I used the 12v from pin 6 for the tcm/transmission harness to feed park neutral then the other wire went to terminal 9 for the start relay. Any suggestions for why the port is dead?

 

Hey Man,
Really For Us Z Guys Just wanting to Know on weather I need any special tools or what tool I will be needing for the conversion or is normal tools fine?

 

You need a t55 socket for the flywheel bolts and an 1 1/4 hole saw for the master cylinder. Youll also need a pilot bearing puller or a dremel type tool to cut it out. Mine was seized in and I had to cut it. Other than that you just need the normal 10,12,14,17 sockets and box wrenches. Really it's a pretty easy swap.

 

Update: my port was dead because somehow the wire got cut under the dash going to the port. I guess completely unrelated to the swap. I am getting the hard u1000 code that won't reset and cel is on because there is no tcm. Hooking up the park neutral switch didn't change anything with the codes. But other than that car runs and drives great.

 

So The 5MT Drive Shaft is Fine or will I need the 6MT

 

I used the mt shaft. My understanding is that the flange that goes into the tranny is different. I didn't compare while I had it apart but I did see the auto was stamped with an A and the manual had an M

 

Do I need t remove the auto pilot bushing or just push the new manual pilot bushing in

 

Replied to pm. But yes the converter bushing need to come out so you can put the pilot bearing into the crank.

 

Hey how is it going guys? I am about to put the transmission back in. I read that the auto bellhouseing bolts doesn't fit the manual tranny bell housing. also the green connector that plugged into the auto trans do I need to splice those to the cd009 transmission reverse plug?

 

I have completed everything for the swap but I'm just having some trouble figuring out how to wire up the reverse lights I have a 2004.5 350z that I just manual swapped any info would help

 

I have an 06 350z motor and MT swapped to my 03 350z MT using the wiring harness and ecu that was with my 03 350z. The mechanic did some mods to the 03 harness to make it work. No issues after the swap.

Within a few months I totaled the z and I just swapped the 06 engine and MT with the wiring harness and ecu to an AT 06 model 350z car. Everything went together fine but the car will not start. The NATS light is on. The code came back as NATS immobilizer.

Hauled the car to the Nissan garage with an attempt to get the key programmed. Nissan garage said they couldn't get past the lockout to start key programming. Brought it home and don't know what to do. Any suggestions appreciated.