Thanks for the post. Little bit of hammering is no big deal to me. Appears I'll have the truck line since the LQ9 will be coming from a truck/SUV. Not trying to be cheap but Def on a budget. Currently emailing Logan aka brew haha regarding his setup ie engine and mods. He made great numbers with no crazy expensive build.

 

LQ9 800 cost 300 core 140k miles. .....? Sounds like a deal?

 

question about ls2 and oiling sytem, im curious to the difference between the accusump and the dry sump that would come standered for most ls engines, ive been looking at building an ls2 and looking into a 402 stroker kit i wasnt sure if i would need a long or short snout crankshaft long snout is supposedly for the ls dry sump oiling sytem is this a requirement to run the accusump or can you use the standered length ls2 crankshaft with accusump and oil pan?

 

Most of the OEM LS dry Sump i.e. LS7 still use the wet pump for pressure and the dry pump for suction/scavenging.

The accusump is only an accumulator, which helps maintain oil pressure in case there is a loss of oil pressure. THe system I am running is an LS3 wet pump, batwing oil pan, and 3qt Accusump.

If you wanted to run a dry sump there are many companies out there that do dry sump conversions on LS motors, I haven't done enough research to delineate them. I didn't have room for a dry sump since i put my PS pump where the dry pump would go (RHD)

 

Most of the aftermarket dry sumps I've seen remove the AC compressor and bolt the pressure/scavenging pump in it's location. There are also some that use the OEM oil pump for pressure. So there are lots of options.

With the lack of space in the engine bay your oil tank basically has to end up some where either in the passenger side or in the rear section of the car. They are fairly large and require decent size lines so it become a fun puzzle to run all that stuff to and from the engine/pump/tank.

I don't know if you'll need both an Accusump and a Dry Sump system. You can do it and it certainly will not hurt anything as long as it's plumbed correctly but the Accusump is meant to be more of a poor mans solution to the dry sump, at least in my mind.

I've run my accusump for several races now and I've never noticed a loss in oil pressure in high G corners. However, to be fair, when I'm in high G corners I'm not always focused on my oil pressure gauge either.

 

are you guys all running upgraded radiators?
I'm looking at a koyo 36 but ill save on that if it's not necessary


thanks!

 

I haven't completed my swap, but if your wondering if the OEM 350z radiator will work. I'd say no. You are going to want to get a larger thicker radiator and Slim fans.

 

What were you running on your vortec setup in south Florida? Should be a similar amount of btus. At least on the street

 

I was running the oem rad, open style bumper vented hood setrab oil cooler.

Ill take the reccomedations and just upgrade to the koyo

Thanks!

 

Hey guys, is there a reason no one has used or made an adapter for the CD009 transmission to LS engine? I see a lot of KA to CD009, even 2JZ to CD009 adapters. I know the T56 is the standard trans, but if you're doing an LS swap in 350 or G35, you already have a CD transmission. It seems that the CD would even be a cost effective option for RX7 swappers, as they are plentiful, and much cheaper than a T56.

 

I would just run a Accusump setup, this would be a cheaper route for sure and provide you with the security you need when you engine starves for oil.

I am running a Accusump setup and the install is pretty straight forward on them.

I am running a custom Ron Davis 30x18x3 Dual Pass, with -20AN fittings and also a built in oil cooler with -10AN fittings.. Cost a penny but well worth it for my needs

 

LS flywheel doesn't fit in the 350Z bellhousing. This was covered already in this thread.

 

Dang, can't believe I missed that. Thanks AF!

 

Thanks Royal T!
I should have saved my setrab oil cooler instead of having sold it for cheap along with my vortech setup! - should have known the mod bug would attack again...

 

thread's more than a few pages long. no biggie.

 

Ok, I have been reading for sooooo long and have been inspired. Picking up the Z Monday and GTO Wed. 2000 miles of driving but I MUST join this club!!

 

Welcome

 

Congrats. i have been lurking for a long a** time as well. Was planning my swap for years until i scooped up a stock '03z with 19k miles end of last spring. changed my plans! I look forward to seeing yours. build thread in the near future?

I still strive to become a member someday. now i have time to build a motor! old 300zxclub.com'er here as well. sorry for the weak qual cell phone pic.

 

Okay so finally I'm in the process of getting a LS3 C6 lump, low miles and a good price shipped to the UK. There's already a guy here in the UK who's almost complete his build and using a UK custom Engine Management System, but then he's using the car purely for drifting.

My question is for those of you who've done the swap, and wanted to continue using oem items such as Air Con, Gauges etc, what solution did you head down the Engine Management System route?

Syvecs and Motec is an option, but wanted to see what else was out there from the Stateside?

Cheers

 

I'm curious about the DD reliability of these V8 swaps. I'm dying to do one and once I start my new job I'll have the means and the time to do it. My local shop is on standby to help me do this because they want to get their hands dirty with it too. I want to swap with a GTO LS and keep it stock but my gut tells me I'll want to add more go fast goodies into the mix once it is done.

Regardless, after searching the googlesphere, I haven't seen any references to using these cars as daily drivers. There are a few videos of guys doing burnouts and of course the requisite bevy of drift videos but no real indicators about using them as daily drivers. Yes, the reliability is only as good as the swap, blah blah blah, but how many have actually done this for a DD? Can anyone chime in on what life with a DD V8 350z is like?

Thanks in advance.