The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
Here in colorado I had to do the "treadmill" test for emissions and they also check readiness codes by obd2. I am not sure how emissions works here for swaps, or if they are allowed at all. I would much rather do a swap then building the VQ at this point I think, as long as emissions is possible and a/c can still be functional. I have seen people say they are going to splice the A/C lines to the compressor fittings which mechanically is not difficult, but it does not mention any functionality problems with the controls etc.
Question for the guys keeping the VQ ECU for the water temp gauge to work.
Did you remove the engine harness completely and run a wire from the sensor directly to the ECU pin? Or does the ECU need the engine harness to power up/ground?
Anyone?
I removed the engine harness completely. And found this ECU pinout. I'm thinking about connecting the power/grounds and connect the water temp sensor directly to the pin.
Did you remove the engine harness completely and run a wire from the sensor directly to the ECU pin? Or does the ECU need the engine harness to power up/ground?
Anyone?
I removed the engine harness completely. And found this ECU pinout. I'm thinking about connecting the power/grounds and connect the water temp sensor directly to the pin.
Here in colorado I had to do the "treadmill" test for emissions and they also check readiness codes by obd2. I am not sure how emissions works here for swaps, or if they are allowed at all. I would much rather do a swap then building the VQ at this point I think, as long as emissions is possible and a/c can still be functional. I have seen people say they are going to splice the A/C lines to the compressor fittings which mechanically is not difficult, but it does not mention any functionality problems with the controls etc.
cool thanks I'll have to check into it more. I have not found anything very definitive yet. Maybe I will just give them a call to find out. If it can pass emissions and a/c works 100% like oem that would make it very tempting to swap.
Question for the guys keeping the VQ ECU for the water temp gauge to work.
Did you remove the engine harness completely and run a wire from the sensor directly to the ECU pin? Or does the ECU need the engine harness to power up/ground?
Anyone?
I removed the engine harness completely. And found this ECU pinout. I'm thinking about connecting the power/grounds and connect the water temp sensor directly to the pin.
Did you remove the engine harness completely and run a wire from the sensor directly to the ECU pin? Or does the ECU need the engine harness to power up/ground?
Anyone?
I removed the engine harness completely. And found this ECU pinout. I'm thinking about connecting the power/grounds and connect the water temp sensor directly to the pin.
Will report back if it will work or I fry my ECU.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,175
Likes: 132
From: Florida
... Research time again. Is the tach still the aftermarket fit to the oem cluster?
Chris
Might get flamed for this but, I've been doing a lot of reading about the LS engines and swaps into the Z. Highly considering doing this instead of FI, as I love me a good V8.
Realistically, what power are you guys making with just bolt ons? I may have missed this already but I already read the first 5 or 6 pages and the last 3.
Really learned a lot through these post already, thanks for all the sharing.
Realistically, what power are you guys making with just bolt ons? I may have missed this already but I already read the first 5 or 6 pages and the last 3.
Really learned a lot through these post already, thanks for all the sharing.
I figured as much. Which is what I was doing prior to posting, I should have mentioned that. But, was also curious.
Realistically, my goal would be 400 if I was doing a build like this, which I guess leaves me at looking at a LS3.
Thank you for answering!
Realistically, my goal would be 400 if I was doing a build like this, which I guess leaves me at looking at a LS3.
Thank you for answering!
a LS1/6 with bolt ons will get you over 400rwhp. A bolt ons LS3 will be closer to 500hp
Many LSX motors can due it if your in for a crate motor. A LS2 can easily do it with an aggresive cam and long tubes. An LS1 would do it with heads, cam and long tubes.
A bolt on LS3 with a streetable cam and long tubes usually nets you 460-500.
As for the ECU, use any off the shelf GM PCM that matches your motor or harness.
A bolt on LS3 with a streetable cam and long tubes usually nets you 460-500.
As for the ECU, use any off the shelf GM PCM that matches your motor or harness.
Thanks everyone, I was definitely including the cam when I said bolt ons. Still considering my options and doing more research. Still not even sure this is what I will be doing but am highly considering at this point.
I am going to follow up with some shops to see about prices for the labor (yes I know it's not cheap at all, but I am not competent enough to do the required work).
I am going to follow up with some shops to see about prices for the labor (yes I know it's not cheap at all, but I am not competent enough to do the required work).
At the end of the day, the best advice I can give you is this:
how much power do you want?
What luxury aspects can you do without? (noise, A/C, stock tacho etc.) only about 5% or the current LS swaps have A/C and I think only 1 is using a stock tach.
Does what you want fit your budget?
I will say that I feel my LS swapped car is way more bulletproof than any FI'ed Z. My motor has went through utter hell that would likely have grenaded a VQ. Also my parts are cheap as hell. for example, I had to replace an 02 sensor, it cost me $37. A VQ denso sensor runs around $100. a cam on a LS motor is $300 to $500. you can search what Z cams cost. I can put **** gas in it if I'm in a pinch and don't have to blink an eye.
how much power do you want?
What luxury aspects can you do without? (noise, A/C, stock tacho etc.) only about 5% or the current LS swaps have A/C and I think only 1 is using a stock tach.
Does what you want fit your budget?
I will say that I feel my LS swapped car is way more bulletproof than any FI'ed Z. My motor has went through utter hell that would likely have grenaded a VQ. Also my parts are cheap as hell. for example, I had to replace an 02 sensor, it cost me $37. A VQ denso sensor runs around $100. a cam on a LS motor is $300 to $500. you can search what Z cams cost. I can put **** gas in it if I'm in a pinch and don't have to blink an eye.
My goals for power would be between 400-450 (anywhere in that range I'd be happy).
Noise and stock tachometer do not really bother me. I've seen some custom ones in this thread that I liked the idea of. However, I would like to keep A/C in the car.
Budget I was hoping at spending
Noise and stock tachometer do not really bother me. I've seen some custom ones in this thread that I liked the idea of. However, I would like to keep A/C in the car.
Budget I was hoping at spending
Its definitely not voodoo magic but for some reason most swaps do without it. Even those built by shops. Meanwhile I'm over here with my windows up in the summer saying its too hot outside.








